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Non-Lemming
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Discussion Starter #62

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I was very seriously warned away from the full float kits for the early D44 axles by a guy who I trust on driveline stuff. He's had lots of them come in with serious problems. I'll continue looking for a 1970-1971 D44. Thanks for thinking of me though.
Good to know. Since I am lucky enough to have a 71' I was not aware of any issues.
 

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Non-Lemming
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Discussion Starter #64
Good to know. Since I am lucky enough to have a 71' I was not aware of any issues.
I had a 1970 with the one piece axles a long time ago.
 

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I'll keep an eye on CL up here, those flanged 44's show up every once in a while.
 

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Non-Lemming
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Discussion Starter #66

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Non-Lemming
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Discussion Starter #67
Well, the correct springs arrived last night and I used the prepaid labels Quadratec emailed me to send the wrong ones back.
Got some 3" X 4" rectangular tubing and spaced the casters on the engine hoist so the legs were higher off the ground.
Just enough to get the engine on the stand.
Next I attacked the front bumper. It's riveted on with 8 3/8" rivets. :rolleyes: ground the heads off and I could only
pound 1 out. The rest are rusted in solid. They're soaking in a liberal app of liquid wrench. I'll try later when it cools off.
 

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Non-Lemming
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Discussion Starter #68
Rivets still wouldn't move, so I drilled out the 2 top ones and the driver's side front and persuaded it with a 3' crowbar. :flipoff2:
Lots more work than I originally thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Plasma cutter gouged them out on mine. Just enough control to not affect the surrounding metal.
Funny thing is I have a plasma cutter and didn't even think of using it. :laughing:
 

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yea those rivets are a b.i.t.c.h. to pound out on a fairly clean old frame, can't imagine the effort needed on an old rusty crusty frame. I ground the heads down with a grinder then used a 2lb sledge with a tapered punch in the center of the rivet and then a 1/4"-5/16" punch after I got it moving, but it was a work out for sure--minimum 30 swings of the hammer per rivet...
 

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Discussion Starter #73

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Went down to A&B Truck Dismantlers this morning and picked up a cast iron bellhousing to mate the 4.3L V6 to the SM420. I still have to source the bottom cover as A&B didn't have any. Also got the clutch assy from Southland Clutch. The flywheel hadn't arrived yet though, so I'll get that Monday.
Also got a response fro Wilwood Brakes. They suggested the 340-13834 pedal and needed to know the front caliper piston dia. before recommending a master cylinder.
Do you mind sharing what criteria you provided wilwood to get that pedal recommendation? I literally found them to be of no help when I called. Perhaps i was just expecting a little deeper experience as they should have outfitted hundreds of early cj's...

I still need to measure my caliper and wheel cylinder bores, which also somewhat surprised me.

Will you use the same pedal for the clutch?
 

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Discussion Starter #76 (Edited)
Do you mind sharing what criteria you provided wilwood to get that pedal recommendation? I literally found them to be of no help when I called. Perhaps i was just expecting a little deeper experience as they should have outfitted hundreds of early cj's...

I still need to measure my caliper and wheel cylinder bores, which also somewhat surprised me.

Will you use the same pedal for the clutch?
I did the "contact us" email with Wilwood. I told them a Dana 30 front with disc brakes and a Dana 4r rear with drums. Also told them I wanted a hanging pedal with the master cyl on the firewall in the engine compartment. The pedal is a 7:1, 340-13834 and a 1 1/8" bore master 260-8556. They did ask for the piston diameter on the disc brakes to specify a master bore size. It's a single pedal. I plan on using the chain clutch linkage from Advance Adapters.
 

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Discussion Starter #78

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Do you have the master on hand yet? I'm looking for the length from the firewall - out. I only have 5.5" between the firewall and my carburetor and the cj master that i was planning to use is 8.25" :mad:
 
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