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Discussion Starter #141
sweet. good progress. a few months to go...........
Thanks, really trying to get moving on this, need to get it done. I done think it will be ready by October though, hoping and prying to have it done by February. Just too much and too little time and funds between now and the end of summer.
 

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Discussion Starter #143
Just measured it at 77 5/8
 

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Discussion Starter #144 (Edited)
Still slowly plugging along in-between everything else.

Got started on the lower front ORI mounts.



Still need to add to them, just trying to get there seems like a ton of crap. Something like this: I need to get the uppers mounts figured out, but first I need to lower it to full bump, but to do that I need to figure out just where the rear cage bars are going to go so I can figure out where I need to cut the rear frame off of and also start to figure out the mounts for the rear, but before I can do that I need to know what I am doing with the rear skins, which is about where I am now.

This is where I started at with the rear skins.



Trying to decide how far in I want to bring them.

Touching the frame:





Or 6" out


 

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Discussion Starter #145 (Edited)
After a bunch of consulting with the rest of the local idiots (da worms :flipoff2:), this is where I got the other night before jack told me I had to stop playing with sharp implements. :D. Still got to tie the end cap into the radius, which is also probably going to be opened up some more yet for tire clearance. Will have to figure that out after I get the ORI's mounted and I can cycle the suspension some to see where they need to be trimmed to, but getting this far will let me figure out where to cut the frame and get the rear cage started so I can include the mounts for the ORI's and skins into it.

:smokin:



and the general consensus from everyone else, and the boss (wife), is that it'll most likely end up with being about 6" off of the frame.





Added a couple bars to the front section also but I didn't take any pics of those yet, need to pick up some more tube right now though after burning up some of it on the kids rig the other day too before i can get much farther.
 

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Discussion Starter #146 (Edited)
Still slowly just plugging along.

Front upper ORI mounts, V2.0.






Ended up taking 17 inches off the rear of the frame. The frame rails end right at the back side of the tire, where they meet the radius of the tire at full bump. If that makes since. :confused:






Hoping to have this thing sitting on its own suspension on all 4 corners by the end of next week, will see if I can make that happen with a ton of other crap going on next week. :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #147 (Edited)
Got the driver side upper mounts cleaned up and installed last night. The blind guy :flipoff2: stopped by on his way through town and we were able to get the front suspension flexed out to check for clearance. Everything is looking good. There is a little more than a half inch between the frame rails and the ORI's at full cross up. :smokin:











 

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Looking good!

It's too late since you've done some extensive cutting, but if you want to refer to my rig, I narrowed my rear to where the tail light caps were 42" apart from inside to side. My thought was I would put my full size spare in between where the tailgate used to be.

Keep up the good work!
 

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Discussion Starter #149
Looking good!

It's too late since you've done some extensive cutting, but if you want to refer to my rig, I narrowed my rear to where the tail light caps were 42" apart from inside to side. My thought was I would put my full size spare in between where the tailgate used to be.

Keep up the good work!
Thank you.

I am not sure what the distance between the two end caps will be. Right now I am planning on having them about 6" outboard of the frame rails. If I remember right off the top of my head, the frame is 33", which would put them right about 45". This is still open to variations until I get the rear bars done and start getting the suspension and everything figured out for it. I have to pick up a couple sticks of tube before I can go any further, hopefully they will be in tomorrow, if not it will be Monday before I can pick them up. Hoping to get some decent time in on it next week and get that done.

Have you been beating on yours anymore lately, it turned out sweet. :smokin:
 

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Thank you.

Have you been beating on yours anymore lately, it turned out sweet. :smokin:
I've been chasing an over heating issue. Cant go up hills or put load on it up hill without it going to 225+ degrees. Even with a bigger radiator. I pressure tested it last night and found a leaking lower hose and fixed that. No loss of pressure after the fix, then I put a vacuum to the radiator with a special tool and injected antifreeze after with it, in hopes it sucked out any remaining air pockets in the system. My air compressor couldn't quite put enough air pass the "T" to get to the recommended PSI the tool was asking for. So well see.

Going to check the timing and spark plugs next. If not that then tear apart the intake manifold gasket. :( Hopefully its fixed shortly.

I talked to Scouttanks today and hes been wheelin his up at Fordyce pretty regularly. I'm getting the itch, but with working weekends and a 11 mo old at the house its hard to get away these days.
 

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Discussion Starter #151 (Edited)
I finally got off my ass and ruffed in the rear mounts today before work. Took me longer to get to it than I wanted, but there was crap that just kept getting in the way. On top of that, I cant find the second bag of misalignment spacers, it was on the cowl area of the tub and it has totally up and disappeared, so I had to pull the ones out of the front to use for moch up on the rear. Going to order a full set of 5/8" ones instead of the 1/2" ones I got with the ORI's, and then add weld washers to all the boltholes to re-enforce them anyways. I did get the dual fill rig made up last week and picked up two 40 chf bottles for $50 so I should be good to go on that for a while. :smokin:. Now I need to start filling some of the cage and getting it lined out, hoping that the momentum sill pick up a little bit now.







 

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Looks good.

One note: Your rear struts should be angled in at the top. This will prevent the spring rate from going negative when flexed out. if you run them straight up and the axle flexes the strut will start loosing spring rate and will make the rig kinda flop around. You want the strut vertical and fully compressed when the other side of the axle is at full droop.
 

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Looks good.

One note: Your struts should be mounted angled in at the top. This will prevent the spring rate from going negative when flexed out. if you run them straight up and the axle flexes the strut will start loosing spring rate and will make the rig kinda flop around. You want the strut vertical and fully compressed when the other side of the axle is at full droop.
In your front flex pics you can see what I am talking about. Once the struct is past vertical and leaning outward it is no longer holding that side up and the rig will flop.
 

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Discussion Starter #156 (Edited)
Looks good.

One note: Your struts should be mounted angled in at the top. This will prevent the spring rate from going negative when flexed out. if you run them straight up and the axle flexes the strut will start loosing spring rate and will make the rig kinda flop around. You want the strut vertical and fully compressed when the other side of the axle is at full droop.
In your front flex pics you can see what I am talking about. Once the struct is past vertical and leaning outward it is no longer holding that side up and the rig will flop.
ya, I have mulled that over to no end, I run into a issue with the amount of room I have. If I was running full width axles, I would have 3" per side to push the lower mounts out.

thread for reference
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/901313-airshock-coilover-angles-when-flexed.html

In the front I am pretty much stuck with what I have. I got the misalignment spacers in yesterday and was finally able to get the rear flexed to check how it did and the clearances. I am going to be able to move the rear upper mounts in about 2.5 inches which will help there allot, but still not be perfect.

It's kinda hard to see here, but in this pic, the outer coupler pieces on the cross tube are where the upper mounts would have to be i order to get them to 90 deg and full bump. It's a total of 9" in the front. There is just too much in the way. its not so much where it would be on the compressed side, but where the shocks would end up on the extended side I run into the problem.







Here are the rear clearances. the string in the one pic shows where it would make contact with the frame. I have about 2.5 inches to move it over, which will also give me some more clearance on the tire side. To get them to the 90 deg point they would have to move over 8.5"








Any ideas would be very welcome.
 

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I see you have already looked in to this. With the struts mounted at 90° at ride height the rig will flop over on the smallest incline. You defiantly want to get some angle on the struts. The front is almost always constrained by the axle/knuckle and the frame.

I would look in to notching the frame and in-boarding the upper mounts. Have you thought about brackets that go up and out over the knuckles? Possibly move the lowers out 2-3" front and rear like that.Looks like you have the room to move the upper mount up and not have to change much. Some mount the shock/strut to the steering arm to help with this issue.
Check out the pic in this thread for mounting over the knuckle.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/671754-coilover-airshocks-dana-60-knuckle.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/438674-coilovers-mounted-steering-arm-knuckle-2.html
 

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Discussion Starter #158
Well thanks I was planning on going to sleep over an hour ago. :flipoff2:

Thanks for the links, that had never even crossed my mind. I had decided before not to notch the frame because it wouldn't give me enough in of itself to help, but the farther out the bottoms are, the more it would help. Reading into that, I am going to have to go sit and stare at it with a tape measure, a jack and coke, and with the music turne all the way up some more.

:beer:
 

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I am going to have to go sit and stare at it with a tape measure, a jack and coke, and with the music turne all the way up some more.

:beer:
I prefer Gentleman straight for my thinkin sits..........:D

Great work so far, someday after we move I will have the room to do what I want.
 

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Discussion Starter #160
I prefer Gentleman straight for my thinkin sits..........:D

Great work so far, someday after we move I will have the room to do what I want.
I usually just pick up black label, but the other day the store was having a sale on the GJ with glasses for $15 a piece. There are now a couple bottles of GJ sitting on ice in the freezer. I had to stop drinking it straight a while back, to shitty to fast. :shaking:

I was sipping some of the Sherry Wood from Westland Distillery up in Seattle the other night sitting around a nice fire. Some really good whisky.

Westland Distillery ? Thoughtfully Made



On the lower mounts side of things, I am really not liking the idea of mounting to the steering arm. Not that its a bad location, but with my arms I cant seem to figure out how I would be able to do it with getting around the 5 mounting bolts and not covering up the adjuster for the spring less conversion and the grease zerk. Making a mount that extends up over it also seems like it would be in the way of removing the steering arm when I needed to. Still got allot of thinking to do on it though.
 
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