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I had to stop drinking it straight a while back, to shitty to fast. :shaking:

I was sipping some of the Sherry Wood from Westland Distillery up in Seattle the other night sitting around a nice fire. Some really good whisky.

Westland Distillery ? Thoughtfully Made

GJ is "SIPPIN" whiskey...........your sposed to take your time with it!

My kid turned me on to Pendleton whiskey when I was in Oregon....pretty good stuff.
 

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are our frames the same width? Im trying to wrap my head around whats different between us. My upper shock mounts are inboarded as compared to yours I think, but mine dont 'invert' like that.....


just went back and looked, and mine are not tilted in more. Is your axle shorter? frame wider? Just the difference between the 3 and 4 link?
 

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Discussion Starter #163
Off the top of my head, Scout II and 800 frames are the same. My axles are not full width. I am running a C&C 14 bolt and narrowed the front 60 to match it at 63", so you have about 3" per side for width over mine.

Right now, I think I am going to get the rears finished up and out of the way while thinking on the front. I am not opposed to notching the frame, its just not something I wanted to do to get the tops moved over that little bit, wouldn't help as much as moving the bottoms out. I am pretty sure I can do it, I was just not paying much attention to that issue. I had honestly forgotten about them needing to be at a 90 deg angle until it was brought back up, was thinking only of keeping them off the tires. I can get them moved out, I just have to come up with a way that I can honestly accept and live with.

Will see what I can do a little at a time over the next couple of days. My next day off isn't until next Friday, and the wife and her sister left for NM last night for a family issue, so our kids and the SIL are all at my house until they get back around Wednesday. When I get home, the oldest is probably going to take off running from them to try and save her sanity. :D I do need to get this section finished up pretty quick though, I have to get the 800 in and take care of a few issues so it is ready to go on the trip, and then she wants it in NM with her......
 

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This is defiantly the right time to sit back with the measuring tape and a notepad. You fab work looks great, would hate to see you have to hack it all up down the road. I would not worry about the struts breaking over as much if you still had leafs in the rear. With struts all around the flop will be more noticeable.

While 1-2" does not seem like much to move a shock mount it will make a huge difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #165
Got a little time to play with it last night, this is what I have for the lower rear mounts for now, I cant get them out farther without going up more, and I really need to keep them down as much as possible. This will end up having me within about a quarter of an inch of the brake bracket and will move the bottoms out 2.5 inches. I got them cut out with the plasma last night and will see if I can get them cleaned up and tacked in place tonight.





 

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Discussion Starter #167
This is defiantly the right time to sit back with the measuring tape and a notepad. You fab work looks great, would hate to see you have to hack it all up down the road. I would not worry about the struts breaking over as much if you still had leafs in the rear. With struts all around the flop will be more noticeable.

While 1-2" does not seem like much to move a shock mount it will make a huge difference.
Thanks. Its killing me how long this is taking. Its all I can do just to not start throwing everything at it just to get it done. :shaking:

Looks good. Get those tacked up and check your angles. Think that will help a lot with the stability of the rig.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #168
Lowers cleaned up and in, uppers are plasma cut. I have to stay up late tomorrow so I should easily be able to get them cleaned up, tacked in and get it flexed to check clearances.

Showing where they should be with the upper mounts





 

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The lowers look good. Still room on the lowers to drill for adjustable positions. I'm ready to see it flexed out in the rear with the new mounts.

I didn't see it in the thread, what length ORI's are those?
 

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Discussion Starter #172
Jon, one of the things I am really struggling with is how much original structure I kept. Granted I think my intent was a little more tame than what yours is, but what about just back halfing it? Hell, cut the front off also. Its going to be a lot easier now and will fix all of your clearance probs on your struts.
I really don't have a good answer to this besides I don't want to :shaking:. Originally I was envisioning there being some more to the need for using more of the original frame, not so much right now. I think I am going to be good on the rear of it now, the front I really don't know yet. Even If I move the lowers out to directly over the king pin they wont clear the frame without some notching. Loosing some of the front frame is an option, I just have to figure out how I am going to make it work with how I had the radiator mounts and everything I had already been figuring out in my head.
 

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going over the kingpin will be a pita if you need to adjust shims or pull the knuckles off. You will have to support the frame and drop the axle. that doesnt sound like much fun if you ever had to do a booney fix.

just get some 2x3 by 12" or so, weld it on the inside of the frame, and then notch out what hits the strut. I cant explain it any better but could explain better on the phone or via pic.
 

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Discussion Starter #174
going over the kingpin will be a pita if you need to adjust shims or pull the knuckles off. You will have to support the frame and drop the axle. that doesnt sound like much fun if you ever had to do a booney fix.

just get some 2x3 by 12" or so, weld it on the inside of the frame, and then notch out what hits the strut. I cant explain it any better but could explain better on the phone or via pic.
Ya, I really don't like the idea of mounting over the knuckles, especially since even doing that I would still probably have to notch the frame. The box inside the frame is where I am at now, I am just trying to figure out of I just want to carry the narrowed section all the way forward, or just notch a sort section where I need it. I really cant move the lowers on the front any farther out because they only have about a 1/4" of clearance right now at full lock, so anything I do will have to be at the top. That is going to start making it very tight up there though.
 

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Discussion Starter #176 (Edited)
I don't have a good shot that shows it, but you can kinda see it here. The upper link mounts are set where they just tuck into the inside of the frame at full bump. Moving the frame rails in might cause a bigger issue with the clearance there. I think that only notching a short section will work, and still give the clearances on the links, but I haven't actually sat down and looked it over. Once I get the rear finished up I'll start looking at it, its just allot easier to flex the rear out with the struts in place in the front right now. Will make it easier when playing with the front too.
 

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Discussion Starter #177
Plug, something like this is what came to mind with what you were saying, and what I am thinking.
 

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Discussion Starter #179
Rears are done. The digital protractor says they cam over 1 deg past 90, and I am not fucking with it anymore over that 1 deg. I had to move the bottoms in about a quarter inch from where I had them to get the clearance on the tire. Its hard to see it in the pic but there is about 3/8" in there.









 
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