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Discussion Starter #221
Thanks Guys :beer:

Welcome home! Glad to see the thing made it through transport ok.

Are you in Corpus Christi?
Yep back in Corpus Christi. Much better on the return trip, at least the hood stayed closed this time.

Notagp👍🍺
Sweet door hinges
Told the wife she needs ITS A GP as her tag:D

Glad to see you and the rig made it back from the Islands. Nice work on the hinges.
The hinges are from Jayson at Canyon Offroad Scout 80/800 Quick Release Hinges
 

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SHit!!!!!

between you and the woods runner scout build in gen 4x4, i have to build another scout. i love yours it looks great. although i would have left it old rusty white (just like my first one) it look bitchin as is. good job and thanks you for your service!
 

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Discussion Starter #224 (Edited)
MontanaTrout- You've got some pretty good builds, too love the FODGE.

MotoDave- I've got the Currie Anti-Rock swaybars front and rear. I was going to try find some kind of junkyard swap... but the Anti-rock sway bars saved me so much time and effort. Perfect width for the Scout frame. I did cut/bend/weld the arms about 15* so the end of the arms would clear the frame. Not sure why I didn't post any pics of the front swaybar. Here's the only pic I have right now that shows top part of the sway bar.

20150120_111340b.jpg

I needed them bad, I had some wicked scary body sway.
 

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MontanaTrout- You've got some pretty good builds, too love the FODGE.

MotoDave- I've got the Currie Anti-Rock swaybars front and rear. I was going to try find some kind of junkyard swap... but the Anti-rock sway bars saved me so much time and effort. Perfect width for the Scout frame. I did cut/bend/weld the arms about 15* so the end of the arms would clear the frame. Not sure why I didn't post any pics of the front swaybar. Here's the only pic I have right now that shows top part of the sway bar.

I needed them bad, I had some wicked scary body sway.
Thanks for the info. I'll be curious how mine drives with the 3 link front. It will be daily driven, so I want good street manners as well as capable off road.
 

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Just read the whole thread. Can't think of a better way to waste a few hours.

Did you every hook up the saddle tanks?

Did the OEM Ford cluster work?

Nice job and thanks for your service to our country.
 

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Discussion Starter #228 (Edited)
Great build!
Thanks

Just read the whole thread. Can't think of a better way to waste a few hours.

Did you every hook up the saddle tanks?

Did the OEM Ford cluster work?

Nice job and thanks for your service to our country.
I still have the saddle tanks, but have not hooked either of them up, yet. I do plan on using one of them plumbed into the stock Ford fuel transfer switch.

I pulled the whole wiring harness from the Ford and used the Ford cluster, 1. because it was faster/easier, 2. I wasn't sure how much/what the PSD needed to run. All the gauges work, except the speedometer does not work properly, it shows less than 5 MPH and the odometer clicks a tenth per mile since my sending unit is in the transfercase not the rear axle. I use a GPS, so it hasn't been a big deal.

I have since discovered that it runs just fine without the Ford cluster and I have a set of Autometer gauges (including a programmable speedo) that I am going to swap in.
 

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Discussion Starter #229 (Edited)
Update time. Made some new driveshafts, chopped up the front crossmember, and went 'wheeling :grinpimp:

I've had all the bits and pieces to make my front driveshaft, but had been putting if off for awhile. I thought I was going to need a two piece front driveshaft, but after mocking up the pillow block and front driveshaft, the angles were too steep, and I found I actually had room for a one piece driveshaft. Since I didn't need a two piece front driveshaft, I had enough 1350 parts left over to make a new rear driveshaft, too. :grinpimp:

It turns out my stock Scout 80 rear driveshaft was almost perfect length for my new front shaft. It barely bolted in at ride height and actually needed about 5 more inches. It doesn't have enough slip for full droop (I have apiece of cable as a limit strap), but it works for now until I can figure a long travel slip.

DIY driveshaft building 101. Measure at full droop, ride height, and full stuff/compression. It's much easier to shorten an existing 'shaft, than to lengthen, but you can DIY a longer shaft, too.

Make sure you have enough slip for full travel, if not, err on the side of caution at full stuff and limit extension if you need to. I'd rather have a shaft be too short than too long. A shaft that is too long can the break transmission/transfercase, too short no harm done.

Using a thin cut off wheel, cut through the weld just enough the separate the yoke from the driveshaft. I like to rotate it as I cut (roll it along the edge of a table, etc) it seems to get a smoother, more even cut. Once the groove is deep enough, give it a few whacks with a dead blow hammer (or a hammer with a block of wood) if it doesn't separate, make a relief cut perpendicular to the shaft and it should pop loose.

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I got a little carried away and cut a bit too deep, but no worries.

Here's the yoke. It's got a nice shoulder on it that fits tight in the tube.

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Double check your measurements and cut the driveshaft to length (account for the length of the yoke) Make the cut as square as you can, as it will make it easier to line everything up. A stainless steel hose clamp makes a good guide if you don't have a bandsaw/chopsaw/sawzall that cuts square. Clean it up with a flapwheel. Tap the yoke in the end of the shaft.

Use a sturdy straight edge (large angle or some square tube works well) to make sure the yokes are "in phase" otherwise you will get some wicked vibrations. This also helps get the driveshaft fairly straight. Rear shaft is~ 19" and front is ~42".

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Using the Mark I hairy eyeball and a few taps of the deadblow hammer gets the shaft pretty straight. A few light tack welds 90* apart.

Install in the truck and give it a spin to make sure it spins true. A dial indicator will really help true it up. Look for the most out of round spot, then whack it with a hammer until it's as straight as you can get it. Then pull it out an final weld. I'll lay a few heavy tacks (90* apart) then weld about an inch at a time on opposite sides so the weld doesn't pull the yoke out of alignment.
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For the front shaft, I didn't have a piece of tube long enough, so I just cut and sleeved using a short piece of extra tube, relief cut and inserted into the ID to help align. It's not the best way, but worked fine for a front shaft. I got the front shaft down to .030" run out, the rear even better at .010"
20150419_170354a.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #230 (Edited)
My rear driveshaft is now 1350 u-joints on both ends (the previous one, now a trail spare, is 1330 on the slip (1330-1350 conversion joint) and 1350 at the axle) Now all driveshaft u-joints are 1350, except the front D60.

20150427_123331a.jpg

I need to address a slight oil pan clearance issue to go to 1350 at that end, too. 1310 yoke barely fits at full stuff, just a wee bit of friendly contact with the oil pan.

20150427_123342a.jpg

I had to chop the crossmember to allow for the one piece driveshaft so I got creative with some 2x .188 strap. Clears at full droop with 3/4" clearance.

It's got some funky angles to account for the bend in the original Ford crossmember.

20150420_161603a.jpg

Drooped out

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Discussion Starter #231 (Edited)
Drove the Scout 5 hours to Hidden Falls Offroad Park in Marble Falls, TX for the Hill Country Binder Bash. I had a great time and got to finally meet my imaginary internet friends.


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Edit: Added 2 more sweet action shots:
2015-04-25 15.59.42.jpg

2015-04-25 15.55.18.jpg
 

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That DS/oil pan issue will self clearance.... (just carry some JB weld).

My front DS CV rubs on the frame rail all the time.... Just spray it with some paint after each run & it's fine.
 

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What a cool build thread. Like your truck.

I know you solved the squirreliness with a sway bar out back. Seems to me moving the leaf springs outboard a few inches would also be effective at stabilizing the truck. My nitpicky 2 cents worth. I'm amazed you got that big diesel in a little 800. Definitely one of the coolest 800s I've ever seen.
 

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Discussion Starter #236
Fuck yeah man...great feeling I am sure.
You bet :grinpimp: Yeah it was great to get out an 'wheel instead of being a jackstand hero & mall crawler.

That DS/oil pan issue will self clearance.... (just carry some JB weld).
I knew the clearance was going to be super close. I had some JB weld...just in case. I'm gonna give it a couple of good whacks with a BFH, now that I know exactly where to hit it :D I'll need to notch the oil pan to clear a 1350 yoke, but that should hold for now.

That looks like a blast, can't wait to get out and use mine.

Nice write-up on the drive shaft tech too.
Thanks, I stole the idea from OldBlueCJ7's write up (his pics are gone though) http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/485542-driveshaft-shortening-101-a.html

What a cool build thread. Like your truck.

I know you solved the squirreliness with a sway bar out back. Seems to me moving the leaf springs outboard a few inches would also be effective at stabilizing the truck. My nitpicky 2 cents worth. I'm amazed you got that big diesel in a little 800. Definitely one of the coolest 800s I've ever seen.
Thanks. You are probably right-if I outboarded the springs it would be more stable...but IMHO not worth the work to do it. If I was going to spend more time on the suspension, it would be to do a 3 or 4 link.

With long flat leaf springs it flexes really well. We went through a canyon called Bronco Buster that has some pretty good axle twisters and the Scout just crawled right through.

The Scout did awesome, I ran 65-70MPH going there and back, got ~16-17 MPG, I even got up to 80MPH once passing a truck...a Scout 80 on 37s does not need to go 80!:eek:
 

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Looking into sway bars for the kids and was wondering which ones you used and what you think of them and if you would have gone with either a stiffer or softer bar.

The front of hers with the 53" springs is getting pretty hairy. I am going to try to get the ones under the rear Friday so I can take it out for a decent little shake down this weekend, and I am expecting that to make the body roll allot worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #238 (Edited)
I got the Currie Anti-Rock sway bars, 36" width, with the steel 18" arms CE 9901-18. Sway Bar diameter is .75" 36" is the perfect width for the Scout frame. Currie Enterprises CJ Axle Parts
Ouch! Price has gone up! I paid ~$350/ea

I started off on the center hole/middle adjustment in the arm, and worked well with no top, but once I added the top back on put some weight in the back, I had to move down to the stiffest setting, which is still a bit soft but seems to be working well. I might drill another hole to shorten it a bit more.

I think you can order a .800" diam bar, too.

I'm very happy with them, I was going to try to junkyard scrounge something together, but they saved me a ton of fab work, it was very easy to install, lots of adjustability. Work good offroad, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #239 (Edited)
Found some old pics from when I was getting the Scout ready to ship back from Hawaii. I knew my hard top was in rough shape, but it had been hanging in my garage for 4 years...it wasn't really a priority when it's 78* year round :D

So I dropped it down and started peeling off latex caulking, fiberglass window screen and Bondo and uncovered a lot more rust :mad3: If I had access to another hard top I would have pulled the glass and scrapped it, but I didn't and I needed the hard top at least semi-servicable.

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Window Screen and Bondo
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Aluminum flashing screwed into the top:
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Discussion Starter #240
So I used my hitch mounted homemade sheetmetal brake to bend up a new drip rail for above the back lift gate.



The original drip rail had a seam in the bottom that allowed water to collect and just rusted away the entire bit, so I cutout the rust and made an extra long piece so the water couldn't get in, I also added another piece of angle along the top of the lift gate on the inside to reinforce.

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I used some 3M VHB tape to bond the aluminum angle, super strong stuff!
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