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Discussion Starter #241
The front windshield flange was pretty rough in the corners, it was completely rusted through on the driver's side. I used some 16 ga to make a whole new flange. Should be stronger than the original, it's a bit thicker.

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Then I used fiberglass cloth mat and fiberglassed the perimeter of the hardtop around the drip rails and about 3 inches up the top to seal up any pin holes, etc. Lost the pics of that when I broke my phone.

Should last me a few more years now, once I get some Hushmat and paint on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #242 (Edited)
I don't know if y'all noticed, but it is HOT in south Texas. I haven't even really driven the Scout that much because the Ford Heat/AC unit I had chopped up never really worked that well, it took up all of the passenger fender well and most of the dash. The fan was on the inner fender and by the time it got in the cab, it was a light puff of air. It sort of defrosted, and the floor heat worked but who needs floor heat? The floor was plenty hot already. :hot:

AC was not a priority in Hawaii as I had a bikini top and the weather was 78* all the time. :flipoff2:

I started looking around at aftermarket AC units that were small enough to fit under the dash, and would be more efficient than the hacked up Ford AC unit.

CommancheScott used an Old Air Product Hurricane unit in his 800, so after a little more research, I called them and ordered one up. They had never sold one for a Scout with a 7.3 PSD, but after answering a bunch of questions, I was confident I could make it work. Since I already had the compressor, condenser and receiver dryer, all I needed was the inside unit which is about half the cost of a complete kit, plus they are located in DFW TX, so I got it in about 2 days. :grinpimp:

After mocking it up I did need to order some extra fittings to mate up with the Ford receiver dryer and a new piece of tubing to reroute to the condenser.

Time to pull the dash an get to work:

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I originally build the dash to fit around the Ford AC and instrument cluster.

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Old versus new
Ford unit up top, Hurricane unit down below.

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Discussion Starter #244 (Edited)
I never really liked using the Ford instrument cluster, but I wasn't sure if the ECU needed the stock instrument cluster to work and it made getting the Scout operational much easier. Later on, I found out that it runs just find with out it. I figured while I had the dash apart for the AC unit, I might as well finish that up with some new gauges as well. I'd had them for awhile, just never motivated enough to tear the dash out to fix it.

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I also didn't like that I had to bump up the driver's side dash to fit the Ford instrument cluster, so I chopped that part off, too.

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Inspired by JEMARSHALL's 800 style instrument cluster I set out to mount up my programmable Speedometer (the Ford one never worked right since I moved the sender from the rear axle to the transfer case, it was off by at least a factor of 10, 60MPH indicated 6MPH and 1 mile was .1 mile on the odometer. I used a GPS to keep me straight), tachometer, volt meter, and fuel gauge. I already had oil pressure, engine temp, boost, and EGT in the center of the dash.

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This also gave me room for two AC vents on the driver's side :D

Tried a few different designs and layouts to fit around the steering column and where the gauges would fit that I could see. My tach is smaller than my speedo, but it still looks pretty well balanced.

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Discussion Starter #245 (Edited)
After about a dozen different layout ideas, I chose this one for the final layout:

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Cut out the gauge holes with an adjustable fly cutter. Easy to adjust so the gauges fit snug, and cuts cleaner than a regular hole saw.

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The lights are from LEDs from Dorman. Across the top: LH Turn signal (green), High Beam (blue), RH Turn signal (green). Check engine (amber) lower right, and the Alternator/charge indicator (red) on lower left. I had to replace the charge indicator with an incandescent bulb, the LED stayed lit all the time, even when it was supposed to be off because it takes so little current.
I also had to change the Check Engine Light, the LED stayed on even when it was off, swapped it for a low profile Hella amber indicator light.
Pre-wired to make it easier to mate up with the stock wiring harness. Connectors are 6 pin trailer light connectors.

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Discussion Starter #246

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The lights are from LEDs from Dorman. Across the top: LH Turn signal (green), High Beam (blue), RH Turn signal (green). Check engine (amber) lower right, and the Alternator/charge indicator (red) on lower left. I had to replace the charge indicator with an incandescent bulb, the LED stayed lit all the time, even when it was supposed to be off because it takes so little current.
I would suggest resistors on the lights to dim them a little, they are fin bright :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #249
A little final test fit before I mount the gauges.

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I have attend to some rust issues before I continue with the dash and AC install :mad3:

Rust never sleeps! Back in ~2009 when I had the Scout torn down for the diesel swap, I fixed the rust around the hinge boxes, at the time there was a small spot of rust on the inner driver's side behind the dash above the floor vent, and the passenger side seemed solid. So I left it alone. :(

I'm not sure who was in charge of this little bit of design work at IH, but the area above the fresh air vent behind the door hinge box is horrible, it traps dirt and water and is a breeding ground for the evil tinworm.

Driver's side
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Passenger side is a little better, but not by much:
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Discussion Starter #250 (Edited)
So I got some high zinc weld trough primer and some seam sealer and went to work on the rust:

I drilled a drain hole hidden behind the inner panel above the vent. Hopefully that will let water drain out between the inner panel and the inner fender, so maybe that will help keep the rust at bay.

Used some handy blue tape to make a template and welded them in. Somehow I deleted the inprogress pics :confused: Oh well, looks much mo better now. After I welded up, I drilled a small hole up top and sprayed bed liner inbetween the panels. I also seam sealed the patch panel as well as the seam above the windshield channel that should help keep water out.

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Big ol' can o' FAIL, I had a little problem with the valve on the Duplicolor bed liner spray :mad4: It worked for a while, then started spewing out of the top of the can rather than the nozzle. :mad3: I was able to get enough out of the can to spray the upper part of the firewall and the patched areas above the fresh air vents.

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Discussion Starter #251
Got the rust sorted, added a layer of Hushmat to the upper firewall

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Installed the AC unit and ran the duct hoses:

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Finished plumbing the AC lines, new receiver dryer, and heater valve:

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Added a piece of Lexan behind the AC controls for some backlighting (amber lights were for testing, I have two green bulbs)

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Gauges and AC controls lit up:


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Discussion Starter #252
New voltmeter, Speedo, Tach, and fuel at night:

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Dash going back together:

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The push-pull cables for the heat and defrost are to the left of the middle dash vent. The fan and AC controls are down below in the three holes where the Ford controls had been. Added anther 12v outlet in the third spot.

The Ford turn signal/multi-function switch is clunky, I am thinking about rewiring using the Chevy column, but I have to figure out windshield washer fluid and high beam switches. I may upgrade my column to a newer GM with the multifunction switch, but it will work for now.

Off to the AC shop in the morning for vacuum and recharge.
 

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Discussion Starter #253 (Edited)
I would suggest resistors on the lights to dim them a little, they are fin bright :eek:
Yeah I noticed that, the turn signals are fine, but the blue high beam is BRIGHT at night. I tried 500 and 1000 ohm resistor and it didn't help much :confused: Probably just stick a piece of blue tape on it for now. *edit* Fixed it. Stopped by the local window tint shop and snagged a scrap piece of limo tint. Cut out a disc and glued it in the high beam LED. Perfect. Not sure why the blue LED is so much brighter than the green ones?

The amp light and check engine light I had to use a Hella incandescent warning light.

Finally, some tech that I find interesting. Can you tell that I am getting old?:flipoff2:
Ha! I almost didn't post up the AC stuff because I figured it was too boring :D

I'm impressed with the kit, nicely done and pretty easy to install. I had previously done an AC kit on my wife's Geo Tracker when we first got married.
 

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Discussion Starter #255 (Edited)
Yep. Going 'wheelin' in a few weeks. :flipoff2:

Had a little issue with my, ahem, "creatively engineered" AC coupling. It leaked so I couldn't get the system charged. I went looking for somewhere I could get a custom fitting made and found a different AC shop that specializes in custom automotive AC work. He said he could make the fitting I need, but wanted to take a look at it. I brought the Scout by the AC shop yesterday and he said I need a different receiver drier (the stock Ford OEM style is and orifice tube style not compatible with the Old Air Product expansion valve style). He saved me some potential problems! He also said my condenser in rough shape and recommended I change that as well while I have the system open. So once I get those swapped out he'll make the new line I need with the correct ends on it. :beer:

For the first time since I've owned the Scout it has an accurate working speedometer.

Uptown:
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Discussion Starter #257 (Edited)
^^^Not sure if Marky Mark is a compliment or an insult? :flipoff2:

Ha. Just my poor photography skills. Trying to drive and not drop the potato...I mean phone.
 

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Discussion Starter #259
If the Scout is a-rockin' Don't come a-knockin' :grinpimp:
 

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Discussion Starter #260
So, Steve (my AC guy) recommended that I replace my condenser since I had the system all blown apart, since mine (used from the wrecked donor truck) was a little banged up and one of the lines was bend/crimped from the wreck and could restrict the flow. He made new AC lines from the compressor with the proper fittings, so now everything in the AC is brand new except the compressor.

So while I had the grille off to swap in the new condenser, I took care of a few things I'd been procrastinating on.

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While I had the nose off, I repainted the grille (it was not supposed to get painted red) and added some LED turn signals I bought a few years ago behind the grille.

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Tucked in behind the grille for stealth.


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Got the new receiver drier mounted and plumbed, which actually works out better since I was able to mount it down low out of the way. I still need to police up a few wires and get them loomed and tied out of the way.

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I have room for washer reservoir now. I did not have room for the washer reservoir before and I am thinking about moving my MasterFlow 1050 air compressor over to the passenger side fender now that I have more room.

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I got the AC system charged up and took the Scout on a little road trip this weekend and having the AC was nice. I was pretty happy with the Old Air unit. I do need to address the heat coming through the transmission tunnel though,after about an hour of driving, it gets too hot to touch, which puts a lot of heat into the cab. The other good news is that running the AC/ added heat from the condenser did not significantly increase the engine temps, I never ran over 200* during my test run.
 
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