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Discussion Starter · #261 ·
Getting ready for the North Texas Binder Round Up, I noticed that the nutcerts I used for my crossmember had pulled out. The trucking company used the second crossmember to chain down the Scout and that section of the frame is thicker because I reinforced it after I notched it to clear the transfercase. Looking at the nutcert, I don't think it mushroomed properly because of the 1/4" thick frame rail. I also fixed the cracked weld.

So I used my other method to get threads into a blind frame hole. Tee nuts from the hardware store. Snip off the prongs (there are also a flat version with no prongs) insert into the hole and weld the edges. Works really well and you get more thread engagement than welding on a nut or just tapping threads.

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My rear springs were thrashed (Bronco II). They had always been really soft, I added two leaves from a Ford Ranger and that helped, but lately they have been really mushy and almost have a negative arch with nothing in the back. So I hit up the local Pull-a-Part and snagged some heavier rated springs from an F150.

The Bronco II springs are rated at ~960 lbs, the F150 springs are 1,700 lbs (I think, still researching the spring codes 3 leaves/overload). I was looking for the 1,900lb rated 4/1 springs, but I got lucky and found these that were really easy to snag. They have the same offset 25"/32" as the Bronco II/Ranger Springs. Good resource for researching leaf springs for all kinds of makes and models: F150 Leaf Springs, Ford F150 Leaf Spring Replacement

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Discussion Starter · #262 · (Edited)
Got the "new to me" springs installed, improved ride and raised the rear 2.5" about an inch higher than it used to be when I originally did the spring over. I also swapped over the red polyurethane bushings that I had installed a few months ago.

New springs are thicker with 3 leaves and an overload. I'll keep the old springs in case I need to throw an extra leaf into the new pack. I took it for a test drive and the the new ride is stiffer, less marshmallow.

You can see the difference in the arch:

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The old springs had wear marks from rubbing on the exhaust.

When they downloaded the Scout off the truck, it had been chained down so tight the rear springs were inverted. They seem to come back up to ride height, but they were shot.

Here's the clearance when I originally installed the Bronco II springs

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Now:
F150 springs
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Discussion Starter · #266 · (Edited)
Nothing too sexy. Swapped in a GM tilt column. I'd been looking for awhile to find a early '90s non-airbag manual shift column, most in the yard are airbag auto columns. I was at the local pull-a-part with a buddy and stumbled across an 1991 S-10 with the column I was looking for. I realized how ghetto the Ford multi-function turn signal switch looked strapped on with a hose clamp. I've had a new Borgeson upper u-joint in the box for awhile to swap out the stock GM upper bell joint, and finally got motivated enough to swap it in when I pulled the column. The S10 column was about 2 inches shorter, but with the new u-joint and longer chunk of DD shaft, it was a pretty easy swap and cleaned up the turn signals, highbeam, and washer pump wiring. I doubt I'll get the cruise control hooked up though :laughing:

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Swapped in a new lock cylinder and Grant steering wheel.

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Discussion Starter · #270 · (Edited)
I guess I haven't updated in awhile. :emb2: A few updates from the last year or so.

So last April up one of the guys says, "I've got a top that's in better shape than yours. You can have it." I was hoping to just bolt in on and

We decided this was a bad idea:
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:laughing:

Went back a few weeks later with my old top removed and picked up the "new to me top" Thanks Lee. :grinpimp:
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It might look a wee bit rough, but it's just surface rust, and in MUCH better shape than my old top.

It's for an earlier model, with the external 5 bolt mounting, but fit with a few modifications. I had to drill 7 new holes to match my windshield frame, and trim the top bit of drip edge off the windshield frame.

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I had to trim this bit off here:
go, but it was for an earlier 5 bolt top and mine is 7 bolt.

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Discussion Starter · #271 · (Edited)
Some more wheeling pics






I found a piece of that perforated 1.25" square steel tube at Lowe's that had the correct hole spacing (1" on center) and width to match the windshield frame to use as a drill guide. After some careful measuring from the windshield (8" on center, from center, 8", 16", 24") frame to the top, I drilled 7 holes. Matched up perfect.

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Discussion Starter · #272 · (Edited)
So on my way to pick up my top, I had a little problem with my right front tire.:mad3: Still held air, but 1/2 the tread was missing. Figured I picked up a nail or damaged it four wheeling, this was my first on highway flat tire in ~25 years, so I figured it was an anomaly. Threw on my spare and kept on trucking.



3 months later...same thing happens to another tire :mad3: 2 tires (0909 build date) with plenty of tread, in a 3 month period.


Fore sell sum big o tars. 50% tread left. :laughing:

OK not an anomaly, time for some new shoes. Got a sweet deal on some 37x12.5-17 Toyo Open Country RT at the local Discount Tire. They had ordered them for another customer that wasn't sure if he wanted the MT or RT. A bit milder tread, but still pretty aggressive. I really, really liked my BFG KM2s...right up until the tread pealed off at 65 MPH :mad3: Yep. ripped off the left rear fender flare massaged the wheel well a bit.



 

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Discussion Starter · #273 ·
and...then I had to re-do my left rear shock mount. I'm thinking it's a combination of metal fatigue and tire tread separation slapping it at 65MPH. I did the other side, too as a preventive measure.







 

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Discussion Starter · #274 · (Edited)
I've been debating the best/easiest way to re-use one of the stock Scout side saddle tanks as a reserve tank. When I originally did the swap, I grabbed the transfer valve/switch and extra fuel lines so I would be able to eventually add an extra tank. My first attempt version just used a T into the return line and the Scout manual three way valve. That had some issues, that I had no gauge on the side tank(s), I'd have to keep track of transferring fuel, and it looked hack-tackular.:laughing:

I had an issue with my main tank not drawing correctly (or maybe it was an inaccurate sender/gauge problem). I ran out of fuel with 1/4 tank remaining...twice :mad3: After I filled back up, I calculated that I still had ~5 gallons in the tank. I started carrying an extra 5 gallon can of diesel with me until I could get it sorted.

Turns out the Ford strainer falls off/disintegrates and my gauge was right. So while I was dropping the tank and fixing that, I decided I would finally tackle plumbing in a reserve tank.

This is what I found:


This is what it's supposed to look like:



One of the issues I needed to solve was a supply and return line, and add a vent to the the tank/filler neck. All complicated by the side mount sending unit and no room on top for a traditional sending unit with supply and return lines. Oh, and the Ford sending unit/gauge is E15-160F ohms.


After head scratching for a bit trying to shove a large sending unit with supply and return lines through a tiny hole and not leak:

I found a Ford Mustang sending unit that would fit in the stock Scout sending unit hole (with a few minor mods, and fabbed mounting ring) welded on a longer arm on the float to match the sweep of the Scout sender.



The drain plug is 1/2-20 bolt with washer. Very close to 1/4" NPT thread. So I tapped the bottom fitting for 1/4" NPT, added an elbow and plumbed in the supply line to the bottom of the tank (not optimal due to sediment/trash/water, but I do have a see through filter there before it goes into the transfer valve) and plumbed the return line to the stock draw tube.

For the vent tube, I used a small hole and tapered punch on an air hammer to make a hole for the vent tube. By using the punch I have a bit more thread engagement with the 1/4" NPT threads. Tapped with 1/4NPT threads, threaded in the nipple and added some JB Steelstick to finish it off.




So, now I have a reserve tank, switches over with the dash switch, and accurately reads the fuel level, too.

Probably one of the best mods I've done, I don't know why it took me so long to do it. Sure beats a 5 gallon can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #275 · (Edited)
Pics from October 2016 North Texas Binders trip to Hidden Falls:















The new tires did pretty well, maybe not quite as well as the KM2s, but they run quiet and kept the tread on...:laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter · #276 ·
In May 2017, I went to Marble Falls for Wheelers for the Wounded. They bussed in wounded Veterans (and their families) from Ft Hood & San Antonio. There were ~180 volunteer vehicles almost all Jeeps, I was the only Scout.









Good time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #277 ·
After a year of tripping over the hard top in the garage, I finally got to work on it to get it ready for paint.

Back to work on the hard top:

Pressure washed the old gunk and dirt off the top and prepped for paint.



The interior paint was in surprisingly pretty good shape under the old spray on coating, the cab area had a bit more surface rust, but still in great shape.

Just one bit of rust on the rear quarter window (the top was stored on it's side and the side was near/on the ground)



I used a mini-spot sand blaster to clean up the rust before filling with JB Weld Steel stick epoxy.





A bit of surface rust, but nothing serious, scuffed it up before coating with Duplicolor Rust Barrier.

 

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Discussion Starter · #278 · (Edited)
I drilled out the old 5 bolt flange bolt holes to make them even and welded a washer in to fill the hole.



Oops I deleted pics of the washers welded in and ground flush, so use your imagination. :flipoff2:


Used 3M 5200 as seam sealer on the rain gutter. A piece of clean fuel hose works like a champ to smooth the bead.





I used several methods to apply the Duplicolor Rust Barrier. The first coat of Duplicolor Rust Barrier I applied using a small trim roller which came out pretty well, but not the best.



 

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Discussion Starter · #279 ·
Then I used an undercoating gun to shoot the interior. That came out pretty well, but I didn't like that much large texture for the exterior. (Not an airplane. It's a Texas sized Skeeter)







The Duplicolor Rust Barrier is pretty thick, so I wasn't sure if I could spray it through a regular paint gun. I followed the instructions and thinned it 10% (maximum recommended) and it sprayed very well, just a bit of texture. I probably could have thinned it a bit or messed around with the gun settings more and gotten it a little bit smoother, but I figured the texture will hide some of the blemishes. I used a Harbor Freight HVLP gun with the remote reservoir. https://www.harborfreight.com/64-oz-professional-hvlp-air-spray-gun-kit-62895.html



 

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Discussion Starter · #280 ·
Then I did a quick wet sand with a scotchbrite pad to knock down the texture a bit. Then loaded up and took it to a friend's house for the color and clear coat.










It looks a bit thin in a few spots, because we ran out of paint. It was Memorial Day Weekend so, I had to wait a few days to get more paint the following week.
 
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