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Discussion Starter #101 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #102
Then I started on the wiring:
P6210096.JPG

It wasn't too bad, I had labeled everything well when I took it out of the F250 and most of the connections would only attach one way.

The PCM and injector control module fit perfectly right in a small ammo can

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Sealed around the connections with some RTV and mounted it to the fender along with the fuse/relay box.

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Discussion Starter #103
The GM 205 I had has the long slipjoint output, so I swapped the shorter 32 spline Ford output with yoke.

Ford 205 on the left and GM 205 on the right:
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While, I had the output shaft out, did the twin-stick mod to the shift rail only took about 30 min.

Remove the detent ball and knock out the freeze plug and roll pin:

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Discussion Starter #104
It's easy to see on the stock shift rail where the detent balls ride and need to be ground down:
P6090020.JPG

Marked it with a marker and took a few passes with a flap wheel on the grinder:

P6090021.JPG

Reinstalled the shift rail and then I bolted up the 205 to the 203 and adpater plate so I could mock up and figure out how far I could clock the 205. It's about 19.5" long.
P6090023.JPG

I was hoping to get the 205 rotated up far enough with out hitting the frame... oops

P6090025.JPG

A little notching was required:

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Discussion Starter #105 (Edited)
I boxed the frame reinforce it:
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It looks like it hangs down a lot, but it's only about 3" below the frame rail.

203 205 doubler from the rear, before I installed the fuel tank:
P6180095.JPG
 

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The GM 205 I had has the long slipjoint output, so I swapped the shorter 32 spline Ford output with yoke.

Ford 205 on the left and GM 205 on the right:
View attachment 452170

View attachment 452171

View attachment 452173
While, I had the output shaft out, did the twin-stick mod to the shift rail only took about 30 min.

Remove the detent ball and knock out the freeze plug and roll pin:

View attachment 452174

View attachment 452175
I hope you swapped front shafts while you were in the 205.
 

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Discussion Starter #108 (Edited)
I hope you swapped front shafts while you were in the 205.
I didn't, but I will. I still need to swap the front output and figure out the front driveshaft, I think it will be a 2 piece with a carrier bearing since it will be about 4 feet long:eek: Both the Chevy and Ford 205 has wussy 1310 front yokes, so when I get a new yoke, I'll swap in the 32spline ford front output.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
With the move and all, work on the Scout has taken a back seat to getting boxes unpacked and getting the garage organized. After working in the garage-mahal, it will be hard to go back to just a "2" car garage. I only have a few more weeks left before my vacation leave days are up and I have to go to Ft Benning and I will be Scoutless :(

So I am trying to get as much done as I can before I leave.

I got some new shoes for the Scout BFG KM2 37x12.50-17 :grinpimp: Should work nicely with the 4.10 gears and the PSD.

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Discussion Starter #111
Got the tires mounted and balanced (airsoft BBs) just in time to put it on jack stands and sit until I get home.

Much mo'better than the tiny worn out swampers I had for rollers :grinpimp:might need a little trimming for full flex:evil:

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Swapped in a steering column from late 80's Chevy, and power steering box from '95 Chevy with Ballistic Fab hi-steer arms (wagoneer knuckles milled by Jnutter), drop pitman arm for late 70's wagoneer.


View attachment 423912

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And donned my blue nitrile gloves and swapped in a master cylinder from a 4 wheel disc brake '79 grand marquis (thanks HoS)
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Rear bumper 90% complete, I'm waiting to finish once I decide how much to cut the rear quarters.

View attachment 423917

More pics of the rear bumper? I am brainstorming mine - guessing most people just ditch the stock rear body mount crossmember doohicky?
 

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Discussion Starter #114
Brandon, unfortunatly I didn't take very many pics of the rear bumper build. The bottom pic a few post up from this one has one of the better pics of it. I posted a pic in your thread. I went back and looked through my pics and found another:

P7040040.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #116
19 gallon tank? I plan to use a ford tank too, and am going to cut and splice the fuel tank door into the scout, but thats a great idea too. the Van tank (e250) is nearly the same size, and 22 gallons, if you are looking for a little more.

are those locked H2's?
Yeah, Ballistic H2 aluminum beadlocks, I was going to run H1's but I wanted to be have the option to swap wheels/and or tires with my Dodge, so I started looking for some 17" rims, found them for sale on PBB.


Yeah, stock ford 19 gallon rear tank. Worked like it was meant to fit there. It's turned 90* from stock orientation, so the fuel lines are on the driver's side and the fuel filler faces to the rear. I still have my saddle tanks and I *think* I will be able to use the stock fuel tank selctor valve to feed the main center tank. 19 gallons should be plenty, +20 gallons in the saddle tanks will more than sufficent:grinpimp:

The ford tank is ~35"x27"x8" if it was any deeper and there will be clearence issues with rear driveshaft and/or rear axle, depending on transfercase/drivetrain combo.
 

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Discussion Starter #118
could you fit a second tank over the pumpkin to the bumper?
That's where I originally planned to put it, but without more suspension lift or body lift, there's not much room directly above the rear axle. There is a small amount of room behind the axle, so if you had to, you could probably cram a small tank back there.
 

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Discussion Starter #120 (Edited)
I have a small update. I was home for 2 weeks of midtour leave in July. I spent 5 days in Vegas, and just vegged out for a few days, but I did manage to get in a little bit of work one day. While I've been deployed I have been ordering parts (shocks, XRC-10 winch, ARB for the 14BFF, Wild Horse EB flares and some other odds and ends, gauges, etc) so I'll have a bunch to do when I get home. I have been brainstorming on what I wanted to do to fix my rockers. I had some rust and I wanted to build some rocker protection. I like Scout254's rockers and decided to do a mini-boatside similar to his. I get to cut out some rust and will gain 2-3" under the rocker panels.

Here's a googlesketch of my idea:




With some blue painters tape I marked off a straight line and chopped off the bottom of the rockers ~5-6".
Here's a piece of 2x2x.188 angle that will form the base and inner structure of the boatside. The inner rocker will be trimmed flush with the floor and the bottom of the boatside will have a piece of ~1x3 tube to account for the step between the floor and the bottom of the gastank. It will all get skinned with some 3/16" strap to give a smooth surface and protect from wheelwell to wheellwell.







When I get home for good, I'll be getting transferred so I'll have a super wrench-a-thon. I have to get the Scout road worthy and registered ASAP so I can get it on the boat to Hawaii.
 
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