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Was Chris there in his k5 on 54s? I saw his rig in Moab in 2019 and that thing is insane! Seems like a nice dude on the Facebooks, too.

That wheeling trip looks awesome. The first line was super awesome to watch and I'm sure it felt even better. The second one was definitely sketchy, glad you recovered!
 

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Discussion Starter #462
Then we ran a 3rd trail, aired up and went home. It was a fun day! It was cool to see such big rigs, one on 54's, one on 50's, one on 44's one or two on 42's. The more I go out the more I am glad I have the cage and bumpers set up the way I do. If I get body damage I get body damage, I have before but I also don't go looking for it either and the cage saved the grille, the cage saved the body multiple times.

On the way home the doubler kept popping out of gear.

The doubler was leaking fluid, got hot and took out the shift fork bushings, at this point I just about had it. I spoke to Chris Bowman and sent the 205 off to him.

I guess the 205 doubler isn't as cool as an Eaton HO72. That thing was 60 something years old, I threw it in with factory 5.14s and ran it with no issues for years. This fucking thing was just problem after problem.

Bowman could see my frustrations with it on the trail and said he would fix it up if I wanted him to. I normally and have in the past had issues with a component and continue to mess with it until I figure it out myself. I was just burnt out on it and he has built many 205 doublers for big mountain havoc style rigs that have triple the horsepower and tires in the 60+in range. I was burnt out on it and sent it to him.



I'll be honest, it was a combo of things. I made mistakes,, I threw it together quick, multiple times and in non ideal sitautions, so there were some things that were my fault, there were also other things that were questionable about behemoth that amplified things that were not ideal on my end. Other setups with tighter tolerances wouldn't have cared, then also the 205 was in need of a rebuild, unlike my HO72. :grinpimp:

Anyways, he went through it with me and I learned a good amount.

I put it back in the rig, he recommended I make a bracket to stop flex between the t case and the trans tailhousing because they are known to crack, so I did that. He also recommended I ditch the rear poly mount I have off the rear output and go to rubber since I have an OE rubber mount at the trans.











(ignore the poly mount, that was just to prop it up off the floor for the picture)

I ended up leaving the rear poly mount for now. I test drove it and it leaked from the shifter shaft, I found out an o-ring was missing, that fixed it, then it had a slow leak from the shifter housing bolts, I pulled those out, put sealant on them, put them back in and will test drive it after it cures for 24 hours.

Let's hope this stupidity is behind me. My most hated modification on my rig so far has been the 205 doubler, it kills mpg, no I don't care about mpg, I care about range when driving 500+ miles to a trail or wheeling event and my range took a decent hit with this gear driven case, then obviously all the issues I have had.

Bowman redesigned the shifter arm to it cant have play in it, he filed and cleaned up a lot of things in the shift fork to tighten up tolerances as well. HOPEFULLY THIS IS THE END!
 

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Discussion Starter #463
Was Chris there in his k5 on 54s? I saw his rig in Moab in 2019 and that thing is insane! Seems like a nice dude on the Facebooks, too.

That wheeling trip looks awesome. The first line was super awesome to watch and I'm sure it felt even better. The second one was definitely sketchy, glad you recovered!
Chris was there but not in his rig, he rode passenger in the green fullsize jeep on 44's. I think the reason he left it home was that he had some work to do on it after insanity fab winter challenge race. The rig on 54's was his buddy. It's known as the stop sign rig I think? It was a suburban at one point but it's all tube now and all the panels are from street signs.

Chris is a standup dude and super cool. I drove by his shop one day and saw his rig outside, I had no idea he was in the area, I stopped by and we talked transmissions for hours. I have been back 3-4 times since and I usually don't leave without talking for a while and him answering so many questions I have on transmissions, transfer cases and gearing. He has no problem sharing his knowledge. His rig is the most proportional rig on 54's I have seen and just love the looks of it! I still have screenshots of it on my phone from TTC years ago. I have always loved that rig. He also is an amazing spotter. I learned that on the run I did. I only have positive things to say about the guy.
 

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Me too. He and I talked about my doubler setup and how I have it plumbed into the ecobox. For me, on steep climbs the trans fluid all goes back into the doubler and I sometimes lose pressure (and thus, forward gears). Eventually he and I were going to try and figure out a check valve for the return port on the tailhousing of the transmission, but even just overfilling the trans by a quart seemed to do the trick so it's fallen on the priority list. Like you said, has no problem sharing knowledge with fellow gearheads with no agenda or personal gain. I'd for sure send him some business if here were in my area. Glad he got you fixed up!
 

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Discussion Starter #465
So I am working from home during COVID-19 and we aren't doing stuff on the weekends so plenty of work is being done. I also travel for work quite a bit and now that I am home every night the Hummer is getting attention and I am doing projects that have been put off to the side. I knew this year I would get these projects done since the past few years have been crazy moving 2 times and 2 UA's but now the projects are getting done at an accelerated rate.

Wiring:
I had the blue seas system for about 6 years. It was great but it needed to be redone. I still had wiring in there from my roof rack days with the lights up top and wiring for my rear 10 bolt e locker I ditched many many years ago. I had bought 2 trigger controllers a 2-3 years ago. which are wirelessly controlled switches so no switches have to go through the cab.





I can also control it with an app on my phone! I got my rock lights rewired up so that was nice too. I am so happy with it and it was MUCH needed.


Rear Suspension:
I was on my second set of factory shackles, they are 3.5in from bolt hole to bolt hole, the shortest I could find was 4in so I bought those and figured I would deal with 1/4in lift.



I also replaced my rear shocks since I snapped a shock shaft on the last run. I just got generic Bilsteins for now but I would like to get some nice shocks at some point.

Finally got my shifter knobs!



Steering:
I had wallowed out the factory knuckle holes, the large end of the taper is larger then the 5/8 bolt so I think that probably made it worse over the years. I got weld washers and put them in top and bottom.





Since I put in a new tie rod down in so cal (during the KOH thrash) I had my steering pull to the passenger side (which was the side that had the bad outside tire wear) so I made an alignment tool like Bleepin Jeep



I made the holes a tad larger hoping that it would fit 8x170 since my brother had SD60 axles.



above is what I copied. I think it made a big difference in accuracy compared to 2 people holding a tape measure from outside of the tire to outside of the tire.

I noticed I had way too much toe-in and may have caused that outside tire wear but only caused it on one side? I realigned it and now it's pulling to the right. My steering wheel isn't perfectly centered so maybe its the box trying to go back to center. I will find alignment between the 2 measurements I had from then and now and adjust the drag link.

Doubler:
I hear the doublers like to puke fluid (according to Chris) so I added a catch can on the firewall so anything that pukes out will run back in when parked.

 

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Discussion Starter #466 (Edited)
Storage:

I had my hi lift mounted off my roof rack back in the day. I didn't like having the weight up high but I think a 60" hi lift is the size I need and I cant really store it anywhere else. I never mounted it after doing the cage and either left it at home or ratchet strapped it to the cage. If I ditch the 2nd row seats I can fit the hi lift but I want to have the 2nd row usable.

So I picked a spot.



and made some mounts



I copied by buddy's idea which was to take a nut and weld 1/4 rod to it so you have a giant wing nut that doesn't require tools to get it on and off.

Finally a hi lift where I can get it on and off with ease and its hard mounted for safety.

The storage in the H3 is meh...I feel there is a lot of wasted space with panels that hide dead space. I also tried to come up with a solution that can serve multiple purposes. I do lots of different types of wheeling and I don't trailer my rig and I have decided to try and keep my 2nd row open for seating as much as possible. I do wheeling close to home, where I carry trail stuff, I do wheeling far from home but have a base camp. Where I have food, clothes and spares I may not carry locally but can leave at camp and then lastly I do point A to B type wheeling like the rubicon where I need to carry all the shit with me.

I started searching and I found out there is dead space in the fender well and dead space doing down the fender towards the 2nd row.




So I cut out the cubby hole and saved an entire action packer worth of crap! I went snow wheeling in northern CA and realized with only 3 rigs there could have been many instances where we needed 250+ feet of rope to recover. I had some additional rope laying around and started carrying it. For how light it is I figured stuffing it down into the fender well was worth its weight in gold some day. I also put my welding stuff in the cubby area. It does take a little bit more effort to get to now but like I said in the video, if we need the welding stuff or 250 feet of winch rope, were probably in a fucked up situation and we wont be going anywhere fast so having it take an extra minute or two to get to will be worth the additional storage gain.

I just mocked up some stuff to see how I want to build a little rear cargo rack for multiple wheeling scenarios. I will be using 1/2 square tubing to keep it light and take up less space.

The end goal is to be able to get anything I need without having to move 12 other things to get to it like I had to in the past (except the winch and rope stuff in the cubby.)

That's where I am at. The thread is now up to date and I will continue to spend my weekends and evenings trying to better my rig in what normally would go much slower given the virus conditions we have that has halted society.

 

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More storage and better organization I'm finding in my older age makes so much difference when things go wrong on the trail. It makes it a lot less stressful to get tools/equipment when you know exactly where it is, even if it's stuff down deep somewhere. Making better use of the storage already in the rig is icing on the cake too. Nice work man!
 

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I noticed I had way too much toe-in and may have caused that outside tire wear but only caused it on one side? I realigned it and now it's pulling to the right. My steering wheel isn't perfectly centered so maybe its the box trying to go back to center. I will find alignment between the 2 measurements I had from then and now and adjust the drag link.
I'm interested to hear how you solve this issue. I've been dealing with mine pulling to the passengers side for years. All I could come up with was that my ram or box got damaged from a hard hit through the steering. When I put the front axle up in the air and start the truck, the ram creeps out on its own until fully extended. Just like you though, my steering wheel isn't quite centered perfectly (centered around 11 o'clock ). I picked up another box and it didn't change.

Also, you've done an excellent job with your truck and this thread.... always look forward to updates, thank you for devoting your time.
 

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I'm no expert, but here's my experience: I had this issue with my first set of 40s. It turned out that my tires were actually toe'd out too much and was pulling in one direction.

When I realigned it, it pulled in the opposite direction and did until I got a new set of tires. I think once they start to wear in one direction and you shift things, they rub the other direction. The box doesn't care if it's centered, it should only apply pressure in either direction if the servo valve detects steering input force.
 

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Discussion Starter #470
I'm interested to hear how you solve this issue. I've been dealing with mine pulling to the passengers side for years. All I could come up with was that my ram or box got damaged from a hard hit through the steering. When I put the front axle up in the air and start the truck, the ram creeps out on its own until fully extended. Just like you though, my steering wheel isn't quite centered perfectly (centered around 11 o'clock ). I picked up another box and it didn't change.

Also, you've done an excellent job with your truck and this thread.... always look forward to updates, thank you for devoting your time.
Thank you! I appreciate it. I’m glad your enjoying the thread. Dman may be right with the tires. How long have you had your tires?

I'm no expert, but here's my experience: I had this issue with my first set of 40s. It turned out that my tires were actually toe'd out too much and was pulling in one direction.

When I realigned it, it pulled in the opposite direction and did until I got a new set of tires. I think once they start to wear in one direction and you shift things, they rub the other direction. The box doesn't care if it's centered, it should only apply pressure in either direction if the servo valve detects steering input force.
You might be on the money. I never had this issue, slapped together a new tie rod 800 miles from home, had the toe set incorrectly, then wore the passenger side tire damn near bald on the outside edge. Aligned it correctly and now it’s pulling the opposite direction. These tires have been through 2 UA’s, countless rubicon and hammer trips, thousands of highway miles and I never even rotated them once. It may be time for some new shoes since I fucked up the outer edge on these from a tread standpoint.
 

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Toss the messed up tires on the rear and see if it improves. Make sure you don't destroy a brand new set of expensive 40s!
 

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Thank you! I appreciate it. I’m glad your enjoying the thread. Dman may be right with the tires. How long have you had your tires?
I've had two brand new sets of tires on it since it's been pulling. It's not the tires, because with the axle up on jack stands, it drifts to the right immediately when engine is started. If Dman is correct with no pressure when there's zero input, that would lead me to believe that I have two faulty boxes that leak the same amount amount of pressure, down the same line to the ram?

Unless there is still pressure in both lines at zero input, both being of equal pressure, but since I'm using a single piston ram there is different surface area on each side of the piston so it will hydraulically creep out due to fluid mechanics? I am using a surplus center ram, so the piston has a much larger diameter than a psc ram, which would make this sort of creep way more noticeable.
 

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Discussion Starter #473
Toss the messed up tires on the rear and see if it improves. Make sure you don't destroy a brand new set of expensive 40s!
Yeah, I do not want that!!

I've had two brand new sets of tires on it since it's been pulling. It's not the tires, because with the axle up on jack stands, it drifts to the right immediately when engine is started. If Dman is correct with no pressure when there's zero input, that would lead me to believe that I have two faulty boxes that leak the same amount amount of pressure, down the same line to the ram?

Unless there is still pressure in both lines at zero input, both being of equal pressure, but since I'm using a single piston ram there is different surface area on each side of the piston so it will hydraulically creep out due to fluid mechanics? I am using a surplus center ram, so the piston has a much larger diameter than a psc ram, which would make this sort of creep way more noticeable.
If two sets of tires and 2 boxes didn't do it do you think it could be the ram?

What is your toe like? maybes set it at zero?
 

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If two sets of tires and 2 boxes didn't do it do you think it could be the ram?

What is your toe like? maybes set it at zero?
It's possible piston seals are leaking, might be time to get a psc ram.

I believe my toe is 1/4" out. I will zero it and try that.

Sorry for jacking the thread......
 

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Discussion Starter #475
It's possible piston seals are leaking, might be time to get a psc ram.

I believe my toe is 1/4" out. I will zero it and try that.

Sorry for jacking the thread......
No worries! It’s all good to try and solve issues, we have all been there
 
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