[evilfij]

Lets hear it for some nice weather!

Took the engine and trans/t-case out of the 51 today (original 1951 Series I NAS spec). Could not get the tans/t-case off and I do not have an engine hoist. Clutch was stuck on (two three foot prybars and no love). Managed to get the whole assemby out by myself (quite proud of living through this). Getting the axles out was then easy.

Frame needs major work, engine looks toast, trans will likely need rebuild so I am going to HACK her up (sorry Ike).

I am taking the portals out from under the 59 as they need more brake work and some series steering help and putting them under the 80in. I have a scrap disco II frame for parts to patch the frame and then I am going to plate the bottom with 3in x 1/8in strap all the way front to back. I am going to set it up exactly like an LWB series/C303. SUA front, SOA with outboarded springs rear and track bars. I am going to use the disco rear radius arm mount for spring mounts in the back.

Ron

 

[64rovr]

i hope you stretch the wheelbase... a LOT!

i hope i start on my super rover soon

 

[evilfij]

NOPE

80in all the way.

38x11 bogger when I can afford them.

Ron

 

[64rovr]

okay, um ill let you discover how freaking unstable that thing is going to be with an 80" WB, portals, SOA rear, and 38.5s!

 

[Way]

Why do you not want the wheelbase to be longer? Comp rigs are typically 104" +++

Way

 

[Way]

Is this the goal? :flipoff2:

Maybe if you get the wheelbase short enough you could eliminate four wheel drive. The rears could rub the front and make them move that way. Kind of like a cog idea.

 

[Serious One]

I say go for it! :flipoff2:

I think the 38 inch tires will prove to be a little bit big, remember Ron, that tire size and wheelbase are proportional. I'd say the biggest you really truly want to go on an 80 inch truck is about 35's (maybe 34's).

But...like I said, go for it! I want to drive it when it's done. We could swap trucks for a week or so.

Let me do some photoshoppin' tomorrow and I'll see what I can come up with as far as accurate proportions would be.

Can you give me an approx. distance from the center line of the hub to the bottom edge of the door???

 

[evilfij]

While I know this is a rock crawling board 90% of my wheeling is in tight areas, trees, mud, rocks, snow, all together, 100in is big. With the width of the C303s 88in looked fine and I am sure I could go shorter. My front axle is set by the front spring location and I really can't move the rear back much without extending the frame. The 59 I am just not willing to butcher and that leaves the 51.

I would LOVE a photo chop. The portals give 5in of lift otherwise it will be approximately stock height. You could certainly use serious one with a few more inches as a base. I am going to (booty) fab up some forest rover style front fenders and probably just cut away a huge amount of the rear fenders.

Ron

 

[Leafsprung]

80 incher

Hey, make that thing semi original, Over a 12 inch lift seems like a lot for an 80 (5 for portals, 4 in tires and at least 2-3 in SPO). Its going to be cheaper and cooler as a more original looking beater. Use the portals on that 110 thing youve got. or sell me the axles and put the $$ into finding those series one bits. I wanna see an originalish beater dammit!!
-Regards
-Ike

 

[evilfij]

There will not be that much lift.

5in from the portal but suspension hieght will be stock. With 35s it is only 3in of lift, 38s 5in. I am not going for a "new" look, I want it to look old. Bellview winch, original paint, originalish looking body. Make it look like something out of a 1960s artic expedition (well without a roof )

The 110 thing is too nice to hack, just like Noah. There is just too little to save on the 51. The engine is non-original and toast, the frame has some major issues (worse than we first thought), the trans won't shift and looks like it may have had water in it. Bulkhead is toast. So what am I left with? T-case, axles, and parts of a frame? If the engine ran it would be another story but rebuilding a 1.6 is NOT cheap and based on the condition of the bores probably not possible.

Ron

 

[Leafsprung]

80 inch

Go 2.25, SIIA gearbox. Weld the frame up. Plate the bulkhead or buy another. I have a rust free 80 inch bulkhead and frame in the AZ desert. Free if you go get it, had a dent in the LH door post and the rear cross is bent on one side. Theres a motor there too, but it has some sand in it . . . Add the warn, some seats few fasteners and youve got a truck for the price of those boggers . . . hell, buy my 107 pickup and put the portals under that . . . Now that would be COOL! Or what about that 107 wagon you were draging back from canada for its 2.0L? Use that.
-Regards
-Ike

 

[Serious One]

Dude, don't go spouting off about frames lying around in the AZ desert! That's how I got the crewcab BTW!

So...where is it?

 

[evilfij]

I may use the 107 SW but I was probably going to part it out. Have to see the frame. Going in a week and a half, was targeting march 15th but there was still 4 feet of snow

I would like the bulkhead if someone in AZ can ship it to me (gas in the disco would make it the most expensive bulkhead ever )

You are right LWB is better but it is more work.

Ron