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Discussion Starter #1
i'm just about to embark on pulling all the carpet (yes, carpet) that the p.o. put in the interior of my 40. there is considerable surface (i hope) rust on the rear floor pan. i'm planning on wire brushing the shit out of it and applying a rust sealing paint on it, then doing a hurculiner or similar job on it. read great things about POR-15, but heard some good stuff from a friend about hammerite. do you guys have any oppinions about either or both? i believe that i can obtain hammerite locally, would have to get por shipped in. also, the price for hammerite (i believe ) is much less than the por. any top coat issues with them??:confused:
 

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On surface rust I prefer hammerite on deeper rust I like POR. I like to use the silver POR it's got metal filler in it. POR goes on thicker and seems to add some structure while hammerite acts more as just a coating. I'd probably go with the POR for your application.
 

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apples and oranges

POR-15 "fixes the rust
Hammerite mearly covers it

POR-15 is tough but i believe it is meant to be painted over aka not a final coat.

Hammerite is good for spray paint and is nice because when it chips you can jsut goto the hardware store and buy more.

I would use POR-15 with Hammerite over it

ps, I used por-15 several years ago and i use hammerite all the time on a mini-baja car
 

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I've always really WANTED POR-15 to work well but it mostly disappoints me. Maybe its just impossible to expect anything to truly neutralize/seal rust.

It does sound like POR-15 might be OK for your application but POR-15 is a bitch to paint over without peeling. They sell an interlocking primer for it (Blue Coat? something like that) so you might want to consider using that if you want to paint over the POR-15. Make sure you follow the POR15 surface preparation instructions to the letter or it will peel off your bed.
 

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I personally prefer the POR15, make sure you follow the directions. Hammerite is fine for stuff you don't mind touching up and you can get it in a rattle can.
 

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don't use a wire wheel, it can actually temporarily seal the surface and the rust will simply pop back up, i think that is in the POR directions too, but am not sure
 

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Side note on Hammerite

I agree with the POR vs. Hammerite comments. POR is a pita, but worth it. A side note about Hammerite: Has its composition changed? I've heard that it has, and no longer has the glass bits in it that made it a good rust preventative in the first place. Now it's just paint? Anybody else heard this about hammerite?
Jeff
 

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Another option is PPG dp-90. Used it before on the frame of my power wagon, and it works GOOD, expecally if you are going to top coat it, because it is a primer coat. But VERY strong. May be better in your application. Also as a note, if you have any paint down before the POR-15 goes down, there is a chance the POR will come up, because it is made to stick to metal, not to paint.

Garrett
 

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DISCLAIMER: I HAVE NEVER USED POR-15

HAVING SAID THAT, IF YOU COMPARE RESULTS TO PRICE, I THINK HAMMERITE COMES OUT ON TOP, EASILY. I LIKE IT CAUSE IT IS SIMPLE, EFFECTIVE, AND CHEAP. I THINK FOR THE TUB, THE BEST THING IS TO JUST GO STRAIGHT TO HURCULINER. ON AREAS THAT WILL SEE WEAR [I.E. ANYWHERE IT MIGHT CHIP] JUST GO WITH HAMMERITE AND TOUCH IT UP IF IT CHIPS

MY .02
MATT
 

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I am addicted to hammerite! I love the stuff. It is a very hard paint and i would suggest it. The best way i believe is to do like the other guys are sayin and put POR-15 down and then put another coat of hammerite on top of that.

Jeffaulk: I have not herd this, but last time i checked it was the same.

*Sam*
 

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Hammerite curing time

I have used hammerite on several projects. I have used it on the frame and tub of our FJ40 and the floorboards of our FJ55. I have POR15 sitting in the garage that I have not used. The only downside I have encountered with Hammerite is the curing time. It takes around 14 days for it to cure completely. If you apply it, and need to touch up a spot you missed? Do it right then! Or you will get into another 14 days of curing time. I would suggest using a spray can over a brush. Using a brush applies a thick coat that is soft until it cures. Spraying it on applies a thinner coat. In the end it looks great.
You can buy it with or without the glass beads in it.
 

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DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THE RUSTOLEUM "HAMMERED" PAINT IS THE SAME AS HAMMERITE?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
now i'm not sure what to do. i got the carpet up last night, got most of the glue and carpet pieces up, but there's no way i'm gonna get every scrap of paint up. i'd like to try the zero-rust approach. it's basically a primer (nice flat coat) for good adhesion and it dries faster than the 14 day hammerite. i'd like to go for the herculiner when the weather gets better here (i'm in seattle--that should be july!!:eek: ) because of the noise factor. i'm a little leery of putting the herculiner on top of the rust tho---

BTW: tried out some 3M bristle discs for removing the paint and carpet crap. they're AWESOME! my brother's neighbor works for 3M and gave me a 4 1/2" green one for the grinder and they kick ass. i went with the wire cup/grinder business for a few hours this morning and all i got was sore forearms. slapped that green puppy on there and down to bare metal in no time. but it's my last one!!

willy
 

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dude, if you need to borrow a sand blaster to get the really hard to reach places, let me know.
 

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RUSTOLEUM "HAMMERED" is NOT the same as Hammerite. I dont believe that it has the little peices of glass in it like hammerite does (but please correct me if i am wrong ;) ). IMO Hammerite is much stronger than Rustoleum.
 
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