[LandCruiserNut]

Hey,
you might remember me from the post 'new rover'. Well I bought it and about 1000 miles later I have my first problem . I hope you guys can help me out. It's a 95 disco with the 3.9L engine and 92000mi. Usually: starts up on the first crank, idles at about 750rpm(tach read so not exact), has normal power and acceleration and get 12-13mpg in the city. Now the problem is that intermintetly(sp), when cold, it wont start for a very long time. The ignition and starter are working fine, and when I press on the gas it sounds like it's getting some fuel but not enough to start. Eventually it fires, then runs really rough with no power untill it warms up. I haven't done any diagnosis work yet and I can't seem to find a manual at the parts store. So, what are your ideas? I was thinking timing, fuel pump(not likely), dirty injectors, bad spark plugs; but I really have no idea because it's intermitent and runs fine later. Help!! I dont want to pay land rover 95 dollars an hour!

 

[evilfij]

Try a new cap and rotor, sounds like condensation in the cap.

pre-GEMS are tricky little buggers.

Ron

 

[Old Scout]

Check your fuel pressure

 

[Rover Addiction]

Has this rig had any of the ignition parts replaced recently? I agree with Ron, give it a new cap and rotor (I like genuine as I've had problems with others, but everyone has their own opinions). Also, check the spark plugs and wires. I'd consider a full set of new wires and coat the contacts with dielectric grease.

-John

 

[LandCruiserNut]

thanks for the tips, I'll probably just try the cap and rotor because it's cheap. Old Scout, I don't have the tools to check that and I don't see how the pump could be an intermitent problem. I'll report back, but keep the suggestions comming
Also, is there a cheap online place for rover parts. I've got a feeling the dealer will want 100 bucks for that rotor

 

[evilfij]

Nathan

www.discountrovers.com

Ron

 

[Old Scout]

thanks for the tips, I'll probably just try the cap and rotor because it's cheap. Old Scout, I don't have the tools to check that and I don't see how the pump could be an intermitent problem. I'll report back, but keep the suggestions comming
Also, is there a cheap online place for rover parts. I've got a feeling the dealer will want 100 bucks for that rotor

Well lets see, The wiring to the fuel pump is well known for having corrosion issues. When the fuel pump is not getting it's full voltage the injectors will not squirt very well. The fuel pressure is critical when the engine is cold and the ECU calls for more fuel to act like an electronic choke. Auto Zone will loan you the fuel pressure gauge for free.

 

[LandCruiserNut]

thanks for the insight on that fuel pump ( I am used to them being mechanical ) I'll definatly check on that, the only problem is that I can't really do much diagnostic work untill it happens again, which is usually when my wife is leaving for work. Thanks again to all of you

 

[SeaRover]

replace (check) the fuel filter - then check the fuel pressure on the rail.

there's a shrader valve right on the fuel rail under the hood; checking pressure on the disco's is cheap, and easy. if you don't have a gauge you can pick one up @ shucks for ~$40

IIRC, spec pressure is 37psi.

fwiw - atlantic british sells a "tune-up" kit with cap, rotor, plugs, and new wires for about $100. otherwise nathan is your man.

If i were you i would just replace all these items along with the fuel filter and be done with it. you probably will in the near future, anyway.

 

[Way]

Usually: starts up on the first crank, idles at about 750rpm(tach read so not exact), has normal power and acceleration and get 12-13mpg in the city. Now the problem is that intermintetly(sp), when cold, it wont start for a very long time. The ignition and starter are working fine, and when I press on the gas it sounds like it's getting some fuel but not enough to start. Eventually it fires, then runs really rough with no power untill it warms up. I haven't done any diagnosis work yet and I can't seem to find a manual at the parts store. So, what are your ideas? I was thinking timing, fuel pump(not likely), dirty injectors, bad spark plugs; but I really have no idea because it's intermitent and runs fine later. Help!! I dont want to pay land rover 95 dollars an hour!

Had exact same problem this morning on my rover. Couldn't expain it any differently. I recently replaced wires, plugs, coil, rotor, cap, etc. Has new battery, etc.

What did you find out on yours?????????? Mine does great in Warm weather, but in the 1.5 feet of snow this morning it took a while to get started (unusual) and then when putting it into drive it had NO power and then died. Couldn't get it to turn over again. Gave up after two to three minutes.

Thanks for the help.

WAY

 

[Serious One]

I have had similar problems but they have been fuel related.

The hoses in the fuel pump assy. get brittle and crack and then your fuel system loses pressure.

One way to tell if that's happening is if the car starts to sputter and stall at a consistent fuel level.

Filter, cap and rotor are a really good place to start though. Also, along with OS's thoughts, the fuel pressure check would be a place to check, it might show off the low voltage as well as possibly indicating the cracked internal fuel lines.

 

[Way]

Thanks.

 

[redrangie]

hold on here.

Rovers suffer from alcohol starvation more than most.

Adam,
Here in the front range most of our fuel is in the 15-20%mtbe range.

Hot restarts and hesitation when cold are the biggest problems.

The alcohol vaporizes at a lower temperature than the gasoline, and causes a vapor lock like situation. Sometimes flooring it while starting helps, but not always. Try also to start normal at idle and then blow it out.

Also try and run real gas from places like shell, amoco/bp and such.

j

 

[Way]

John,

Good call. Went and filled up 5-gallon gas tank with fresh fuel. Put a thing of BG44K and a bottle of Heet in it and after 5 minutes of running it is running GREAT. Thanks for the help everyone, ended up being very simple. Also found out a trick to get condensation off the inside of the cap while still letting spark. WD40 works very well to dry everything off. Works on plugs also. A NAPA guy gave me that trick.

Way