[YotaAtieToo]

So this may not be a, truggied out truck on 60s thread, but it isn't going to be a "post pics of your XXXX" or "are these rock sliders DOT aproved" either :flipoff2:
Anyways,
I posted up the 3.4 vs 4.3 thread a while back, because I was going to buy a blown 3.0 4runner and was trying to decide between the two, well I bought this instead.

90 4runner, 22re, 5spd, 4x4, 240k miles, SR5, power windows, cruise control :grinpimp:

Paid $2600, smogged and reg till nov.

It runs really good, probably as fast or faster then most 22re trucks Ive driven (pretty good considering the extra wieght, 3750 to be exact with a 1/4 tank, no spare and those SWEET alum rims:barf

Everything works except: right rear window needs help going down, but not up, and A/C, not sure why.

My plans are:
Small amount of lift, 1" BL, FJ80 coils or 2" spacers (anyone make some under $100) and maybe slight torsion crank
35 kevlars or KM2s
5.29s front and rear (got a whole front diff from a buddy with ridelin)
Elocker rear and maybe front aussie locker
Duals with a 4.7 (left over from last wheeler) w/ tripple stick to help keep center console
Good bumpers and sliders (all home fabbed)
Ford tank down the line

Most of all no geheto-gottaweldthisshitontogowheelinthisweekend-fab like my last wheeler. Seemed like thats all it was made of. :flipoff2:

So far all I have done to it is, take off mudflaps and sway bars (may put the rear back on), tighten the Ebrake cable and put in my red top.

I am curious to see how the IFS holds up to light to medium wheelin. If it doesn't I will cut it out and put in a waggy 44 spring under to keep it super low.

Hopefully I will have some Hardcore tech to post soon.

 

[wapitirunner]

If that thing has factory auto hubs you are going to have fun with the dual cases.

 

[crawled]

Sounds good but you know that ifs wont last though why not swap it now you said your gonna take your time anyway if you do it right it will still be very streetable. Good luck

 

[YotaAtieToo]

If that thing has factory auto hubs you are going to have fun with the dual cases.

I have the whole front end from my buddys 87, that was ritalin joke (getting rid of the add :flipoff2

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Sounds good but you know that ifs wont last though why not swap it now you said your gonna take your time anyway if you do it right it will still be very streetable. Good luck

I know that's what everyone will say, but there are quite a few people on here running Ifs on trail trucks with good luck.

But, everyone is different and time will tell. I already bought the 5.29 front diff, so I'm gonna run it for now. I will probably just leave it open anud run it untill it breaks.

 

[wapitirunner]

The ADD 4cyl runners with a 5 speed came with the 26 spine chain drive case. Check your output housing bolts, 5 bolts is chain, 7 bolts is gear drive. I ran into the same problem and swapped in a w56 with a geardrive, that was cheaper than buying all the adapters.

 

[norcalzuk]

My plans are:
Small amount of lift, 1" BL, FJ80 coils or 2" spacers (anyone make some under $100) and maybe slight torsion crank
35 kevlars or KM2s

http://www.ebay.com/itm/27044165205...53&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&vxp=mtr
check them out for front lift

 

[YotaAtieToo]

The ADD 4cyl runners with a 5 speed came with the 26 spine chain drive case. Check your output housing bolts, 5 bolts is chain, 7 bolts is gear drive. I ran into the same problem and swapped in a w56 with a geardrive, that was cheaper than buying all the adapters.

Ya, we ran into this a long time a go when I worked at a fab shop, that's my plan as well

Oh, I have have heard nothing but bad things about the bj spacers. I would like to keep the Ifs as stock as possible

 

[the_white_shadow]

Hardcore? Me thinks you are unsure of the definition.

EDIT: Oh and :flipoff2:

 

[85dhor]

Nothing hardcore about this build at all. Goodluck breaking ifs shit. I'd sas it and be done since it will be tore down for everything else.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

The hardcore was supposed to be sarcastic

And will everone shut up about sasing it. I never asked if it was a good idea to keep the Ifs, this will just be a thread fallowing my mild build up, so :flipoff2:

 

[85dhor]

At least upgrade the ifs shafts :flipoff2:
you'll snap those shafts like :mr-t: snaps a slim-Jim

 

[2manyprojects]

I am curious to see how the IFS holds up to light to medium wheelin. If it doesn't I will cut it out and put in a waggy 44 spring under to keep it super low.
.

This would never make my list of upgrades or ideas to keep it low. Biggest issue being the IFS frame rails being lower than a solid axle truck. Which equal mandatory lift or frame notching. Hell, most have to run a minimum 3" lift to clear crossover high steer.

Stay off the skinny pedal and the stock front might live, for a while...

 

[YotaAtieToo]

This would never make my list of upgrades or ideas to keep it low. Biggest issue being the IFS frame rails being lower than a solid axle truck. Which equal mandatory lift or frame notching

What? That is exactly why it would be spring under. I would run hiems, and put the tie rod and draglink under the high steer arm. Would gain a good 2" of clearance. Also I wouldn't be afraid to notch the frame a little.

Anyways, I am going to try to keep the ifs, I do not want to tear it out just yet. Like I said, there are others on this board who run 35s and even 37s on locked on ifs and have ok luck, I will carry spare cv's and see what happens.

 

[Peow130]

Yeah, but look at the up-travel of a stock SFA rig.
Now take that, subtract 3 inches, and see what ya get, lol.

 

[Wilson]

My experience was never a cv failure. I stripped an open ring and pinion on 35's being dumb and broke an inner stub shaft with a lockrite and 37's. If you're going lock the front strongly consider an arb, so you can only lock it when needed. The dual cases will allow you enough finesse that you shouldn't have to bang stuff. Look into the blaze land long travel kits and rcv shafts if you truley want to keep it ifs.

 

[MT4Runner]

...or keep it to 33's to keep your CV's happy.

You'll have to do a lot of firewall tubbing to fit 35's on IFS and only a t-bar crank.

 

[Wilson]

37's fit with a 2" bl and 10 lb sledge

 

[YotaAtieToo]

My experience was never a cv failure. I stripped an open ring and pinion on 35's being dumb and broke an inner stub shaft with a lockrite and 37's. If you're going lock the front strongly consider an arb, so you can only lock it when needed. The dual cases will allow you enough finesse that you shouldn't have to bang stuff. Look into the blaze land long travel kits and rcv shafts if you truley want to keep it ifs.

This was my thinking.

Im not to worried about breaking CV's, they are easy enough to change and plentiful in junkyards. I am more worried about the ball joints and the diff. I have seen the blazeland kit, but I just cant justify the 1k for what you get.

Have you heard of anyone running the aussie in the ifs? Its the only other locker I could find besides an arb($$$)

 

[Wilson]

This was my thinking.

Im not to worried about breaking CV's, they are easy enough to change and plentiful in junkyards. I am more worried about the ball joints and the diff. I have seen the blazeland kit, but I just cant justify the 1k for what you get.

Have you heard of anyone running the aussie in the ifs? Its the only other locker I could find besides an arb($$$)

Lol, I only listed the blazeland because I knew you'd be too cheap for tc :flipoff2: you could build your own arms to run t100 shafts and links but $1000 may not sound that bad. I never had a ball joint issue either. I did break a center link a couple months before the recall came out. I was able to weld it back together and drive 5 hrs home.

Does lock rite no longer make a locker for the 7.5"? Mine was before Aussie was around, so it would have been lock rite or ez locker.