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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm sitting on the fence about whether I want to use my 22RE in my next project, or go to a 4.3 Chevy, or something similar. (I'd love to use a Vortec 2900, but I don't think I'll have hood clearance for that or a 3RZ).


So, curiousity is getting to me. I am definately keeping my Toy axles, which to date at holding up very well for me. (Built diamond front, disc'd IFS rear).

My current setup is pretty typical: 85 xtra cab, RUF/Chevies, tube bed, 38.5" SXs, steel homebuilt beadlocks, winch, spares, 36" spare tire, fluids, water tank, etc. Trucks probably around 4200-4400 lbs on the trail.

My next project has a target weight on the trail of ~3400 lbs. Light weight is a major priority, which is why I'm using the Toy axles. (Plus, like I said, I'm not braking them now, in the heavier truck).

Half of me thinks to keep my 22RE, install a DT tri-y and a Comp 252S (I have both those items on my workbench already, so no cost), and call it good. Size constraints mean I'd probably be running my L52 with a single 4.7:1 case behind it, instead of my current 2.28 x 2.28. A 4.3/4L60e/Dana 300 woudl probably be about the same length, with 75% more power...

blah blah blah..

Anyway, Have those who have put V8s, 4.3s, or even 3RZs into their truck seen a higher breakage rate, especially on R&Ps, that they'd attribute to the increased power?
 

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How long you been around?:confused:

more breakage?, definately.

My 700r4 with adapter is about 2" longer than a w56.fyi Newer ones can be made shorter with the removable bellhousing and different tailhousing.


As far as saving weight, you want to run a heavier 4.3 or a cast iron transmission?:confused:

What body/ wheelbase this planned for that wouldn't have the room for a 3rz and dual cases?
 

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I swapped in a Ford 302 in place of my Isuzu 4-banger, which ended up being only about 100 pounds heavier, all said and done. The 22R may not be as heavy as the Isuzu 4ZE1 4-banger.

I broke stock and improved birfields regularly with the 4ZE1 and 200:1 gears -- pretty much any time I turned on the front ARB put me at risk to get greasy. After the swap, I had the same problem, with about the same regularity... until I upgraded to Longfield's 30-spline alloy kit.

My truck runs about 4000 pounds, and after upgrading birfs, I haven't had a problem all season.

Randii
 

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Discussion Starter #4
How long you been around?:confused:

more breakage?, definately.

My 700r4 with adapter is about 2" longer than a w56.fyi Newer ones can be made shorter with the removable bellhousing and different tailhousing.


As far as saving weight, you want to run a heavier 4.3 or a cast iron transmission?:confused:

What body/ wheelbase this planned for that wouldn't have the room for a 3rz and dual cases?

I've been around quite a while.

It'd add 150-ish lbs, but the power trade off might be worth it, thats why I'mon the fact finding mission..

I'm running a cast iron transmission now, the L52. The GM autos are aluminum, right?

Its going into a 53 low hood willys, so the tall intake manifold on the 3RZ or Atlas GM motors would be in the way. V6s fit nicely, and I know 22REs have been fit as well.
 

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i wouldnt run anything more than a 3rz on toyota axles.
 

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The obvious answer is that more power will break more parts, but I think there are places where extra power is actually easier on the drive train.

The example I can think of is Backdoor at JV. In order for me to make it, I had to pin the throttle and drop the clutch, and I ended up breaking a few teeth on a (already damaged) front R&P. I try not to drive my rig that hard, and the other guys that cruised right up either had link suspensions or V8 power, like Kyle (RIP Dave). I have to really hammer it, because I only have so much power and I can't afford to loose wheel speed going up, but if I had a LS1 like Kyle, then I could modulate the power as needed.

All that being said, WHEN I go to a more powerful engine, I will be upgrading my drivetrain.

Edit; Watching 4RnrRick exit Clawhammer, he had all the power he needed to take the right line out. He basically accelerated out the top.
 

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I'm running a cast iron transmission now, the L52. The GM autos are aluminum, right?

Its going into a 53 low hood willys, so the tall intake manifold on the 3RZ or Atlas GM motors would be in the way. V6s fit nicely, and I know 22REs have been fit as well.

yes the autos are aluminum.

The 3rz's are not much taller. Would have measure the engine bay to make sure. Mount it lower in the frame rails? Making note of axle to oil pan room.

3rz with a r150 or r151 trans would be my choice.
 

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yes the autos are aluminum.

The 3rz's are not much taller. Would have measure the engine bay to make sure. Mount it lower in the frame rails? Making note of axle to oil pan room.

3rz with a r150 or r151 trans would be my choice.
Aren't the 3rz's tilted in the factory install? Rick?
 

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Aren't the 3rz's tilted in the factory install? Rick?
Yes, and the Tacomas have a little more engine bay height versus older 22r equiped trucks. As seen in 3.4 v6 swaps where a hole has to be cut in the hood for clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Aren't the 3rz's tilted in the factory install? Rick?
Yes, they are. The issue isn't the motor itself as much as the manifold routes the intake tube directly over the top of the valve cover. They are certainly taller, though.

I wouldn't want to lower the engine, given that I want to raise the T-case to get a flat belly, but won't have duals to clock the case... unless I was running a dana 300, anyway...


I agree 100% about more power sometimes being easier on drivetrain. With the lack of power, you are often forced to go wide open throttle, and lose any chance of being smooth and easy with throttle transitions.

Which, is kinda why I brought it up. Curious to see real world feedback from those who've done it, to see if the on-paper breakage really materialized.
 

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I agree 100% about more power sometimes being easier on drivetrain. With the lack of power, you are often forced to go wide open throttle, and lose any chance of being smooth and easy with throttle transitions.

Which, is kinda why I brought it up. Curious to see real world feedback from those who've done it, to see if the on-paper breakage really materialized.
Of course the downside is when you are really bound up. I stalled my engine at least once this past weekend because I was bound up, and with a V8 that makes more tq at idle than mine does at peak, I would not have had the second chance to change my plan.
 

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The obvious answer is that more power will break more parts, but I think there are places where extra power is actually easier on the drive train.

The example I can think of is Backdoor at JV. In order for me to make it, I had to pin the throttle and drop the clutch, and I ended up breaking a few teeth on a (already damaged) front R&P. I try not to drive my rig that hard, and the other guys that cruised right up either had link suspensions or V8 power, like Kyle (RIP Dave). I have to really hammer it, because I only have so much power and I can't afford to loose wheel speed going up, but if I had a LS1 like Kyle, then I could modulate the power as needed.

All that being said, WHEN I go to a more powerful engine, I will be upgrading my drivetrain.

Edit; Watching 4RnrRick exit Clawhammer, he had all the power he needed to take the right line out. He basically accelerated out the top.

You can climb backdoor without heavy throttle with 22r Toy power on leafs. I think that climb has more to do with weight then power.

Having driven my brothers toy based buggy with a 4.3 and t350, I have to admit its fun, but I still like my little 22r.
 

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yes.......... :smokin:
 

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I've broken one ringed Long and a short side Moser w/4.3/R151/ultimateduals/35's. The ringed Long I attribute to too sharp of a turn under power and a Moser short inner that just sucked. Other than that no other axle carnage in over 2 years. Rig is down now for shredded knuckle steering arm stud threads.:laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I've broken one ringed Long and a short side Moser w/4.3/R151/ultimateduals/35's. The ringed Long I attribute to too sharp of a turn under power and a Moser short inner that just sucked. Other than that no other axle carnage in over 2 years. Rig is down now for shredded knuckle steering arm stud threads.:laughing:
My front axle is a 62" diamond, with 30 spline longs, ARP knuckle studs, ARP hub studs, Bobby's 4340 hub gears, marlin hi steer. The only 'stock' part is the 4.88 4 cyl 3rd member (aftermarket gears).

My current truck is just coming apart at the seams, body wise, and frame wise. But its never broken on the trail in any major way, that it couldn't be driven back to camp.

Being a nerdy engineer like some other guy around here, I've decided to drop all these parts into a lighter, smaller body. Just not a suzuki....

 

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Ive had a couple of standard Yota builds: 80something 22re, 5-sp, duals, 5.29s, 30 splines, 37" IROKs and some cage. Never had any ring gear issues.

New truck:
Almost full bodied four door 4runner, full exo, 3.4L, duals, and Ive broken 3 rear sets of 4.88s :( everything else has held up to a HARD skinny pedal pounding :homer:
Im on the Right Coast and have to spin the tires some:mr-t: and really enjoy the 3.4L but it and the extra weight is breaking R+Ps
 
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