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Since I finished installing my EFI wiring, I can't get my headlights, or any other light to work. The donor was a Canadian Sammie with the DRL option. I have the wiring for the DRL in the harness, but not the DRL relay or whatever it is supposed to plug into. Do I need a relay to make it work? I'm guessing I do, there at least a dozen wires that end in the connection with no relay to plug into. Does anyone know which wires to connect so I can run without the relay? I dont want to have to remove the harness, again , to follow the wires and remove the DRL wires.

On an unrelated topic, I have an idea that I would like to get some feedback on. I have two boys, eight and ten, that love sitting in the back of the Sammie as much as possible!! I want to get a family cage for them and I think I figured out a cheap way to do it. I'm planning on getting a second stock roll bar, square off the ends, add a few inches in height and mount it as far back as possible. It seems like I can remove the piece of sheet metal around the gas filler neck and still have enough room to bolt it to the tub. I would trim the sheet metal to fit and re install when I was done. Now I can run a few top spreaders across the top, grind off the wimpy diagonal brace mounts and put in a diagonal brace from the top of the front bar, back to the bottom of the rear bar. I'm also planning on putting in some shoulder harnesses for them as well. What do you guys think? 2" main hoops, 1.5 " spreaders and no bending needed. The only costs would be a used main hoop and 20' of 1.5" tubing.

Thanks for an other suggestions.
 

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Can't help with the light problem but the family cage solution sounds good to me. But then I am fairly new at this and am interested to hear what the "learned few" have to say and to see if it constructive or destructive.
 

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Never heard of Samis up here having DRL, but maybe I just missed that. I'll call a few junkyards, but EFI Samis in a junkyard is pretty damn rare up here. Have you tired seeing if you can use/adapt a Sidekick DRL relay?

The family cage sounds like a good idea. Doing something at the fron would make it even stronger still...but it would cost more. I guess it comes down to the fact that every little bit will help.
 

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The easiest way to get a family cage would be to go to a local steel shop and have them bend a single tube for the job. It would be easier and possibly stronger than extending the length of a stock bar.
 

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i'm a father as well and i just wouldn't feel right putting my daughter in the back of the sammi unless the cage mounted to the frame. just bolting the rear hoop to the body or welding it to the body would make me nervous as [email protected] i guess i would just rather be safe than sorry but thats just my 2 cents.



also, i have an efi samurai but no dtrl's. i didn't know there was such a thing so no help there. sorry.
 

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DRL's require a relay to make the lights work, they are wired in series. No relay no worky.:p


How it works is the relay has a NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed) circuit. One of those has a resistor wired in to reduce voltage, dimming the lights.

Get a wiring diagram. Once you see it you'll understand how 'tardedly simple it is to fix. Either that or pop in the appropriate 12VDC relay, if you want functioning DRLs.


Hef
 

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Ahh DRL = daytime running lights!!

Give me a clue next time..

Yep, probably need to chase the wires on that one. another possible problem is the crappy ground on the Suzuki harness. You need to add some grounds to the harness inside the vehicle. If you have no cigarette lighter or radio, then you probably have NO ground either. No ground, no lights.

EFI Zuks may have a spare ground.. I have not looked.

-Wayne
 

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Family cage

I've got a seven year old that I would'nt put in the back without a cage either. I had a local shop bend up a loop for the rear and welded in cross braces on the top and sides. The loop cost me $70, and I paid an extra $20 for the tube to make the braces. I used 1.5" ERW. I made the loop as tall as the stock top brace so my canvas rests right on top of the cage, no more messin with the wimpy roof support when I pull the top on and off now. Welding extensions to a stock cage probably would'nt be the best and you'll end up with almost as much into it. Or you could go with the Davesport rear cage, that was $120 and included the bracing(pre-notched). No matter what you do you should weld supports from the frame up to the body mounts for the cage for added safety.
 

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fognozzle said:
Since I finished installing my EFI wiring, I can't get my headlights, or any other light to work.


I'm not too sure about the "any other light to work" part:confused:


....but I had to defeat the emergency brake switch (ground it) in order to be able to unplug my DRL and still have headlights.

The activation of the E-brake shuts off the headlights if you are in DRL mode. (don't ask-why, I have no idea...)

I faked out the stupid thing into thinking the E-brake is always on by grounding the switch, and then unplugged the DRL module.

Then you have to remove the E-brake lightbulb in the dash, or everyone will always point to it and say "your brake is on, your brake is on...." :D

Anyway I did this many years ago, so I don't recall if there was anything else I had to do (but don't think so) but I was working with a stock harness that hadn't been screwed with, so YMMV:p
 

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I'd definitely tie that cage into the frame at the very least. My real opinion is that you should just go ahead and remove all the stock crap and put in a real cage. Yeah it will cost more, but your kids safety is worth the extra money.

Dallas
 

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Hey guys, as a newbee I appreciate seeing a lot of good healthy information in here. I guess I will get a regular tube bent for the back also. Once again, Great job!

:beer:
 

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StinkBug said:
I'd definitely tie that cage into the frame at the very least. My real opinion is that you should just go ahead and remove all the stock crap and put in a real cage. Yeah it will cost more, but your kids safety is worth the extra money.

Dallas
I like the stock hoop. It is a nice high carbon material, and attaches to the body in mutiple planes.

My cage does not currently attach to the frame, but after looking at a series of photos of a Samurai roll, and talking to the folks that survived it, I will be attaching to the frame. They had a nice stout cage with diagonals across the door, etc. they rolled off the top of a large hill a few months back and the vehicle went over something like 5 or 6 times. Not much of the vhicle left, but they came out pretty well. The driver's hand was cut when the windshield popped out, and his wife's ear required some stitching. The windshield failure was interesting. It popped and sliced across his knuckles, and got a tenden. He is still working to recover from that injury.

Anyhow, his cage wa done right, and had a fair amount of material and attached to the floor with plate that sandwiched the body. Both the front and rear of the cage popped through the body sheetmetal.

As I stated, they did very well for as nasty a roll that it was. The cage was better built then many I have seen, and they had Beard seats. I think they would have been in far worse health or dead if they did not have a sturdy cage and seats. He also think had they gone over one more time they would have been really hurt.

They have some amazing pictures of the roll. I'll have to see if I can scan them to share with you all.

If I had a roll like that one, I would be dead. My cage and seats are not currently up to the task. I will be making changes.

-Wayne
 
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