[Kavik]

Spent a couple hours searching for remedies, but no dice.
Going staright to the source, so here goes...

1985 FJ60 stock 2F w/HEI conversion

First junkyard dizzy imploded, left flange on, pulled guts into reluctor.

Reman dizzy, ground off flange, custom clamp, worked awesome.

Then...

Problem one...
I noticed the center contact button was really mashing down on the top of the rotor, caused the springy tab thingy to stick to the top of the rotor, losing contact until I sprung it loose. The button wears down until it isn't a problem anymore. But I'm still curious why the weird fit, are they like that stock?

Problem two(more important)...
Truck dies, replace coil (no idea why bad). Truck lives.

Truck dies, replace coil(short across wires under cap, doh!), notice problem one, replace cap/rotor. Truck lives.

Truck dies, replaced battery that was having trouble cranking the engine on cold mornings. Nada

Replaced coil. Nada

Replaced module, double check cap. Nada

Replace capacator/harness, notice and fix loose, but not disconnected, lead for dizzy relay. Truck lives for three beautiful seconds, then dies. Nada. No mas

I'll assume something gave up, burnt, fried, etc. There was no drama when it shut off, so I checked fuses connections etc. and all seems well.

Has any one had a problem like this, or am I missing something?
I really am not a elec guy so, I'm not sure what or how to check resistance/continuuity on coils, modules, capacitors, and the like.

WTF?
Help please, the doctors office where it is parked can't be too happy and this is my Daily Driver.
Thanks...

 

[goldenarrow]

If you over tightend the coil holddown screws or coil cover screws they will go through the cap and cause a short under the cap.

This is the first thing I would check.

 

[Kavik]

Good advice 'narrow.

Gonna have to check in the morning...

So what is the fallout? Is the cap toast, did the short waste the coil, module , etc. Can I just back 'em out a little?

It'd be sweet if I can just back out the screws and drive.
But, if that doesn't work, any more ideas/experiences?

Any HEI experts on the PBB? There's a million posts on HEI, but no obvious go to...

 

[goldenarrow]

I have had no prior expearence with this first hand. When I was instaling my hei dist my mecanic brother warned me about it.

 

[oregonfj]

Not sure what is causing your problem. Could it be the same problem you had with your first distributor?
Not sure how you modified the distributor.
Here is what I did:
1) Swap the gears: I pinned the new gear in the same hole as the old one (I didn't want to try to drill throught the shaft).
2) Ground the end of the shaft to correct length (make it look like original, screwdriver shape)
3) Ground mounting flange off.
4) Mark the outside of the shaft to know that it is in deep enough.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

If you haven't done the mods like OregonFj states it will continue to pull the bushing down and eat the magnetic pickup every time. the gear will pull down on the shaft as it is located just a bit differently than the stock dist. At one point I was trying to get an HEI to work in a 2f.. Made molds etc to show the differences. In the end after terminal failure on the way to GSMTR 99 learned that HEI is not the way to go unless you can machine the end properly to fit. There are many vendors that sell a correctly modified HEI ignition. Mudrak, Classic Cruisers, etc. Or just go with 78 and later Stock Land Cruiser Electronic ignition. Which is what I would do and have done on my truck.

 

[Kavik]

Update...
Truck is still sleeping.

I did make all the mods as described. Mechanically the dist. is healthy. Toy gear, Correct depth, all good. The only bummer was the clamp I fabricated sat flat, but was a split clamp so my o-ring didn't seal 100% (little RTV, viola!). Like I said before, I had killed one already, so I know what the rotating guts look like when they are going bad.

Here's the deal, I'm a total dumbass. I forgot the move the coil ground strap(the center blade for the harness plug) from the old cap to the new one.
Here's the weird part. The truck ran for two weeks w/o it. It must have decided it had had enough and something gave up.

BTW-'narrow...Screws were not too far in. Although I did back them out just a smidge, so not to squash the rubber washer and button underneath the coil.

So, hopefully the bonehead maneuvers are behind me. I put the coil ground strap underneath the coil as it should be and put everything back together and...

She cranks like mad w/ the new battery, and I get a hint of spark. Then another tiny little spark, but she just doesn't fire.

Can anyone tell me how to diagnose the coil, module, and capacitor individually so I don't have to by them all over again?

Or, maybe some sort of ceremony of process of elimination, Visually everything looks fine.

Thanks for your help fellas.

I really like the HEI when its behaving, but I'm getting dangerously close to putting the factory dist back in.