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Discussion Starter #1
I need some quick brake help.

86 WAG. Propane conversion.

NEW: Master Cylinder: Properly bled
Calipers, pads, rotors.
Rear drums, shoes and wheel cylinders.
Power brake booster.


Brakes work but the pedal goes to the floor? I did have the vacumn source for the PBB coming from the throttle plate. I moved it to a Manifold source. No change.

HELP!

D44 front axle. The only thing I haven't changed is the proportioning valve. Could that cause a soft pedal?

I am at your mercy.
 

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Sounds to me like the master cylinder is not properly bled or your rod is too short :D
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have brakes and it is hooked up.

Bech bled the MC till no air would come out. Checked the PR against my 90. The 90 PR is only a fraction of a frction an inch longer. I swapped the 90 PR into the 86 just to check.

No change.
 

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could be air in the lines still.......have you bled all 4 wheels? starting at furthest from master and work your way closer.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
rockr said:
could be air in the lines still.......have you bled all 4 wheels? starting at furthest from master and work your way closer.
Yes. Thoroughly bled.
 

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Does the new master cylinder dia, match the old dia? Sounds like you are not moving enough fluid. Assuming the system is bled as you say it is. Any under size in the MC piston dia or stroke will cause this problem
 

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Maybe it's a bad master. It is very possible to damage a new/rebuilt master when bench bleeding. You are only supposed to push the piston an inch at the most when bench bleeding. do you have access to a power bleeder such as the one Motive sells? I bought one and it was the best $50 even spent. Made the job of bleeding brakes quick, effective, and super easy.
 

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I might be a complete ass for mentioning this....but believe me, I wouldn't mention it if I didn't know atleast 2 other people (beside myself) who have made this mistake on waggy axles.

Are you certain the calipers are on the proper side of the vehicle??

Take a look at your front calipers - is the bleeder valve at the TOP of the calipers???

If they're not - you need to switch them. You'll never be able to bleed them properly with the bleeder at the bottom. There's always a pocket of air in there.

Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I can't believe I got moved to Newbie tech. What a bunch of $hit.

Calipers are on the right side in the front. MC was properly bled for the third time.

I thought Pirate new everything! Oh well.

BTW, Flame on.
 

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GaWag said:
I can't believe I got moved to Newbie tech. What a bunch of $hit.

Calipers are on the right side in the front. MC was properly bled for the third time.

I thought Pirate new everything! Oh well.

BTW, Flame on.
Dude its not like you are fabbing new brakes. Brakes take mucho patience. I bled for the 5th time today and it finally worked for me. The first time I bled I didn't realize the calipers where upside down. Then I bled a again with that fixed but my hose busted cuz it was old. Then I fixed that and bled again. Come to find out it was the MC so replaced it with a corvette MC. Bla blah blah THe jeep stops on a dime now. I'm still gunna adjust the pushrod a little bit cuz the brakes have a little pressure on them while driving
 

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ok heres one, i have been fighting my brakes for a year. cj 1ton disk ,i put a booster on it and do i need to extend the pushrod to the pedal or adjust the brake light switch? the pushrod does not reach where the master cylinder pushrod did before. just fed up
 

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h&j said:
ok heres one, i have been fighting my brakes for a year. cj 1ton disk ,i put a booster on it and do i need to extend the pushrod to the pedal or adjust the brake light switch? the pushrod does not reach where the master cylinder pushrod did before. just fed up
Dunno......

Why don't you experiment a little???

Try adjusting both of them - one at a time - and see what type of results you get from both. Whichever you think works better or has better results - then change it.
 
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