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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
what tranny should i use in my junk;700r4 or sm465?

specs with 700r4;42 inch tire,4.56 gears would have me turning 1800 at 70 with the 4.3l. and a crawl of 72.5 to 1 with the dual toys.

specs with the 465; 42 inch tire,4.56 gears would have me turning 2550 with the 4.3l. and a crawl of 155 to 1 with toy duals.


i'm leaning towards dropping back to 40 inch tires to get my revs up with the 700r4 with the option of adding lower gears to one of the t-cases later for more crawl later.

opinions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The Rockslut said:
you do realize that 72:1 with an auto is WAY low. you probably wont be able to stop in in low low with the brakes.

I say auto but I like autos. :D

i like WAY lo:D . i'll cross the stopping bridge when i come to it. my friend has 4 to 1 in his rig with the 700 and seems to like it.

havn't searched on it yet but whats the deal with autos and no stoppy w/low gears? i'm running hydro-boost and 4whl discs by the way.

EDIT; my main concern is getting this thing down the highway at a good rpm.
 

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The Rockslut said:
you do realize that 72:1 with an auto is WAY low. you probably wont be able to stop in in low low with the brakes.

I say auto but I like autos. :D
Is the problem with automatics pushing caused by the low gearing? ...or is it caused by people using converters with a really low stall speeds?

Seems to me, going with a low stall converter would take away the the "infinite low gear" that you have with an automatic right at the point where the vehicle starts to move (what some people call the 2:1 effect of an automatic).
 

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Old style or new style 700r? I really like wheeling with an auto. My Cherokee has the Aw4 and my old Blazer had a T-350. It really helps when taking off on a hill. But I've heard the old 700r's are POS. My cousin has one in his 86 Blazer. He's had nothing but problems with it. If you already are familiar(sp?) with this, then good, it has already came into your deciding factors. If I was chosing between an SM465 and my cousins 700r, I would chose the manual and put in a hand throttle. Less hassle then dealing with that piece of shite. My Brother has a new style one in his 88' K1500 and has no problems. He wheels too. My father-in-law has one behind the non-vortec 4.3L in his S-10 SS, and has no problems either, but he does not wheel.
Shaggy
 

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Flipper said:
Is the problem with automatics pushing caused by the low gearing? ...or is it caused by people using converters with a really low stall speeds?
Check my replies to the thread larryboy linked to up there, they're just my opinions, but may shed some light on the subject for ya.
 

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1800 RPMs is to low for the auto. You want it somewhere in the neighborhood of 2300 to 2700. You'll be just below the powerband or on the very bottom of it(can't remember off the top of my head) and it will be a bitch driving cause it's always going to be down shifting.
 

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sm465

manual trans is the only way to go. autos are for girls that cant drive, why do you think the student driver cars are automatics?:flipoff2:

i love manual trannys. you can "feel" what the vehicle is doing better in my opinion. one more plus is a manual will get you to the pavement should you lose all the fluid. ;) just my .02

:beer:
 

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FULLSIZE said:
sm465

manual trans is the only way to go. autos are for girls that cant drive, :beer:
Ok so I'm a girl because I blew out my left knee and it bothers me to drive a manual tranny for more than an hour or two?
 

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700R4, the higest stall you'll find without dropping major buck is probably around 2800, probably too high anyway.

Wire the lockup convertor to a switch to bypass the brake-pedal-off circut, instant compression braking, wire in some gizmo to un-lock the convertor at 800rpm or so so you don't stall the motor. Wire up a pressure release valve for braking in low-low, no fluid pressure, no push past the brakes, kinda like a clutch auto.

I'm getting sick of shifting my SM420, but there's no way my 4cyl would cut it with an auto, no matter what Bigdude says.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
biggnome said:
1800 RPMs is to low for the auto. You want it somewhere in the neighborhood of 2300 to 2700. You'll be just below the powerband or on the very bottom of it(can't remember off the top of my head) and it will be a bitch driving cause it's always going to be down shifting.
my 97 chevy cruises at 1800 or so at 70-75 with a 4.3l.

if i go with 40's on my junker that will get me to 1900 r's. i'm really leaning towards the auto. i won't have to spend any more $$ on the project and if i hate it i acn go back i suppose.

i'm at the mock-up stage right now,i have the 465 in it which was my original plan. i have both transmissions but no clutch, flywheel,linkage,pressure plate,etc......would cost me $400 or so to gather everything and i would like to wheel this thing this year. so i keep eyeing the 700r4.......

another plus is the divorced transfer case setup,make it easy to switch at a later date.
 

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larryboy said:


my 97 chevy cruises at 1800 or so at 70-75 with a 4.3l.


What size tires is your chevy running. You have to take into account the weight of those 42's. Personally I would go with the auto because I can build the hell out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
biggnome said:



What size tires is your chevy running. You have to take into account the weight of those 42's. Personally I would go with the auto because I can build the hell out of it.
just a reference on the 97,thats why i was asking the original question.i know its gonna take more to turn 42s,was hoping someone had some experience with a like set-up. might back down to 40's and see how it does. not going smaller than that though.
 

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biggnome said:


Ok so I'm a girl because I blew out my left knee and it bothers me to drive a manual tranny for more than an hour or two?
wow, you must be a girl with that kind of sensitivity.:flipoff2: it was just a joke bro. i personally would go with the 465. just my .02 cause i hate leaky juice boxes and they dont work right unless there modified(read more expense).:beer:
 

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FULLSIZE said:


wow, you must be a girl with that kind of sensitivity.:flipoff2: it was just a joke bro. i personally would go with the 465. just my .02 cause i hate leaky juice boxes and they dont work right unless there modified(read more expense).:beer:
Nope, just felt like givving you a little shit. Besides I can modify a slush box just about anyway you want for not much more or even less than it would cost you to rebuild a manual that needed hard parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
found this on another thread.looks like i "should" be okay.

"Depends on weight and the motor (power and low-rpm friendlyness), but I'd say it would be a little under geared. Crawl ratio would be 2.52 x 2 x 4.56 = 23:1. I run 39.5s with 4.56s, but with a 700 and a 241 (was a 208 until last summer), 3.06 x 2.72 (2.61) x 4.56 = 38:1 (36.4:1). It works for me, but I wouldn't mind a little more. Motor is a stock 350 TBI, and I can hit 6k loaded for the trail easily.

Pete"
 
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