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Discussion Starter #1
I am midway into doing a SAS on a 2000 Silverado 1500 NBS with a corp 10bolt front which had the axle tubes pressed out, and the sides swapped to make it a drivers side drop, similar to another forum member.

Anyways, the problem now is that the leaf spring pack is a custom pack and with crossover steering the drag link will hit the leaf springs, whats the best way to solve that problem ?

The leaf springs consist of stock 52s (were too soft and ran in negative arch), plus a couple leafs from a 97 OBS rear leaf pack.

Below is a picture that was taking with everything tac'd in. If there is no way of this working then just means I get to start the search for a D60 sooner.

 

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blatant asshole
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Bent link t steering or tall cross over arm and straight link over the spring. Oil pan and steering arm dictates what you will need
 

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Discussion Starter #4
10-4. I got a bent drag link for temporary and it's attached to the passenger tie rod end, like a stock Ford setup. One problem that happens with that setup is when turning to the right it pushes the tie rod bar downward rather then move the tire. I ordered a drop pitman arm to see if that helps.

Question, if I remove the overload is there a way to regain the height that is lost when removing it? With the overload it's sitting leveled with the rear.

I had a welder look at it and he was against everything with it. I know I'm switching to a d60 sometime, but for now I'd like to get this working and to be able to drive on the road.
 

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blatant asshole
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Cut the overload so that it's only about 6" long.

The offset seems pretty standard, let's see the dog leg in the drag link. A standard 4" bend should work that steering pretty well.
 

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Premium Member
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Correct me if I'm wrong.

I think D44 knuckles will bolt right up on 10-bolt front axle. So how about have the passenger side knuckle machined or get aftermarket knuckle for high steer arm for the drag link?
 

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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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Correct me if I'm wrong.

I think D44 knuckles will bolt right up on 10-bolt front axle. So how about have the passenger side knuckle machined or get aftermarket knuckle for high steer arm for the drag link?
Yes. But he looks to need a spacer or a jogged steering arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Yes. But he looks to need a spacer or a jogged steering arm.
Correct, the leaf springs get in the way with a crossover steering setup. So the setup of going to the tie rod bar will work for steering ? I drive the truck maybe 1000 miles a year (if I am lucky). The way I had it for temporary to move the truck (clean up after cutting IFS brackets out) the steering was pushing the tie rod bar downward, rather then moving left to right.
 

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Get Off My Lawn
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Ditch the 52" pack all together. Get a properly made spring set that will hold the weight with more arch without all the additional leafs.

Call up U-joints Off Road and talk to Chris. For about $600 they can build you the exact springs you need that won't be so damn thick and you can run standard high steer with a Sky or Parts Mike thick arm. There are plenty of machine shops who will cut and drill your stock knuckle for the arms as well.
 

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Ditch the 52" pack all together. Get a properly made spring set that will hold the weight with more arch without all the additional leafs. Call up U-joints off road. For about $600 they can build you the exact springs you need that won't be so damn thick and you can run standard high steer with a parts mike thick arm. There are plenty of machine shops who will cut and drill your stock knuckle for the arms as well.
That and check your caster. I've seen a few rigs that would not clear high steer because they had way fawked off caster angles.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanks for the info. I had a shop cut and turn the C's a couple degrees and made sure the caster was in spec. I checked with my angle finder and it was good.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
PERFECT !! Thank You for the link. I didn't find that when I was searching for new knuckles. Looks like I will be placing an order next week for one.

One more question - for my shocks there currently are none on the front, so I was thinking of running them like Ford did and make the mounts on the leaf spring plate, suggestions on this, or should I run the shocks to the axle ? I would like to run dual shocks on both sides too.
 

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Don't really need dual shocks. Get ones that are valved for your application. Off Road Design specializes in these trucks give them a shout. They also make springs and steering for this exact application. Good lick with your project looks good!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Don't really need dual shocks. Get ones that are valved for your application. Off Road Design specializes in these trucks give them a shout. They also make springs and steering for this exact application. Good lick with your project looks good!
Thanks. First time I have done something this extreme. I have done engine and transmission swaps no problem. I will make sure to get shocks that are valved correctly.

I already have an idea for my next project, I think my next project might be to convert a Chevy Dana60 to drivers side drop. They are more common then a high pinion d60 in my area, plus would be interesting to do. I know its been done before, but I enjoy doing work like this.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
well I am canning this front axle. I picked up a 70s Dana 60 HP front axle ($200) and a Sterling 10.5" rear axle (free) that I will be swapping in instead. I will make a new thread with lots of pictures.
 
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