Try searching first… but, and D60 FF should do. Finding a 35 splin in a bone yard is hard, and you haven’t mentioned rather you want to run full width or not, and narrowing a axle plus new shafts IS going to cost more then a 1000 when you total in gearing, a locker, and the hubs…
Help on Dana 60 in TJ.
Guys, I know I'm a newb to this board, but after reading many many posts and talking to the guys at Rocket City Offroad here in town, Im going with everyones advice on axles. Build for the future. So it's a Dana 60 I'm looking for. I was told that I can build one for under a grand or so for my TJ. Im on 33's right now, but plan to go bigger as the years go buy, and I wanna do it right once and once only. I dont; wanna waste money on my 35 (yuck) and I figure why build an 8.8 or 44 up when I can do a 60 for thge same amount. So what kind of 60 am I looking for for the rear of my TJ. I was told any machine shop can do the spindle work to go 35 spline shafts for liek 50 bucks or so. Would a spool be a good cheap way to go with a Dana 60. Thsi TJ is a daily driver, but I agree with all of your advice, that do it right once, and be done. I was told that I can find a 60 for 150 to 200 bucks in a yard. Help me out please if you can. Thanks.
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Well I'd like to narrow the axle if possible and was told that any machine shop could do this for cheap, but are you saying it costs alot more than 50 bucks. I would think it would but Ive never had to do it before. As far as shafts, I thought you could get them for 350 or so cut to length?? I will also have to change wheels and get a SYE and new driveshaft correct?? I wasn't planning on finding a 35 spline D60 in a yard, just a 30 spline FF model. What all is needed to do this in my TJ. I assume new driveshaft and such right?? I did search 4 different times and only found one or two posts that said anything about this. Thanks for the help.
I build a fair amount of 60's and even if I did the work for free it would still cost more than $1000. Here is a price break down
These are just common prices and can be found for more or less
the 60. $100
narrowing it $250
axles $320
bore out the spindles for 35 spline shafts $100 If you find a 1980-up (or so) dana 60 then they are already large enough to fit 35 spline axles.
Ring and pinion $180
Instal kit $100
spool $180
Gear set up $150+
brakes $200+
coil buckets and mounts $300
cost for someone to weld on all the brackets $300
Here is where you can save some $$$. If you want 4.10's then that would save a shitload cuz 4.10 60's are easy to find.
You could go with a 14 bolt and put on dually hubs and that would bring it in to 63" I think. then you wouldn't have to narrow it or buy axles. Or look at van dana 60's because you might just have to narrow one side and that would save a little.
These are just common prices and can be found for more or less
the 60. $100
narrowing it $250
axles $320
bore out the spindles for 35 spline shafts $100 If you find a 1980-up (or so) dana 60 then they are already large enough to fit 35 spline axles.
Ring and pinion $180
Instal kit $100
spool $180
Gear set up $150+
brakes $200+
coil buckets and mounts $300
cost for someone to weld on all the brackets $300
Here is where you can save some $$$. If you want 4.10's then that would save a shitload cuz 4.10 60's are easy to find.
You could go with a 14 bolt and put on dually hubs and that would bring it in to 63" I think. then you wouldn't have to narrow it or buy axles. Or look at van dana 60's because you might just have to narrow one side and that would save a little.
glad to see you thinking of the future but your pricing is a bit off I'm afraid. I first thought you were talking about a rear but then I read spindle work so are you planning on doing both? I'm going to talk about the rear only here...
It will cost significantly more than $50 to narrow the axle unless you got some good hookup. Still will have to remount the control arm braketry, or purchace new stuff from RE if you cant get your off clean. I think RE brackets are like $300 or something, the cuttting and welding just for the brackets will be a couple of hundred ($200+) bucks alone.
You'd be lucky to find a good unit in a yard for that cheap. Most yard units you will need new brakes which are going to cost $100 to $200 if you fab them yourself. B/C it is a daily I'd highly suggest you stay away from a spool unless you are really hard core and don't mind dealing w/ the noise, tire wear, drivability, and attention. R&P and install will prob cost at least $300 or so. You still need to add custom shafts on top of that.
You'd definitely want to get an SYE and a driveshaft, minium $350 there. Oh yea don't forget 4 new wheels and adapters for the front which will put stress on you hubs.
and the cycle begins......:flipoff2:
It will cost significantly more than $50 to narrow the axle unless you got some good hookup. Still will have to remount the control arm braketry, or purchace new stuff from RE if you cant get your off clean. I think RE brackets are like $300 or something, the cuttting and welding just for the brackets will be a couple of hundred ($200+) bucks alone.
You'd be lucky to find a good unit in a yard for that cheap. Most yard units you will need new brakes which are going to cost $100 to $200 if you fab them yourself. B/C it is a daily I'd highly suggest you stay away from a spool unless you are really hard core and don't mind dealing w/ the noise, tire wear, drivability, and attention. R&P and install will prob cost at least $300 or so. You still need to add custom shafts on top of that.
You'd definitely want to get an SYE and a driveshaft, minium $350 there. Oh yea don't forget 4 new wheels and adapters for the front which will put stress on you hubs.
and the cycle begins......:flipoff2:
damn 66, all of that typing for nothing! :flipoff2:
Using these prices for kicks and giggles you can see that not narrowing the axle would save you some money there, also not changing to 35 splines would save you a ton of money. OR you could go with a 14bolt, keep it full width, have all the axle you will probably ever need, and have it done for under a grand… just my .0266CJdean said:Here is a price break down
These are just common prices and can be found for more or less
the 60. $100
narrowing it $250
axles $320
bore out the spindles for 35 spline shafts $100 If you find a 1980-up (or so) dana 60 then they are already large enough to fit 35 spline axles.
Ring and pinion $180
Instal kit $100
spool $180
Gear set up $150+
brakes $200+
coil buckets and mounts $300
cost for someone to weld on all the brackets $300
Have you broke your 35 yet? If not run a 44 out of a cherokee it'll go up a lot cheaper and your good to go. I think if you hang on and run what you got for awhile your going to find that if you want to run 60's and big tires that a YJ is easier and cheaper to build up that your TJ. Just trying to save your the money and headache if you'll listen. A 44 is plenty fine and there's no way your going to get a 60 in a TJ for a grand.
Now that those prices are broken down a little better, I do agree with yall. You've done it before, so I know your right. I was suspect of building one for a grand too, but my local shop, the two guy sthat run it, suggested that it could be built for a grand. But in the tlak fo things, I guess they could have forgotten that they woudl still charge me for the welding, cutting, and all of the labor on gears and such. OR mayeb they want to do ti all for free!!! LOL Not likely. I have found numerous 8.8's and think I am looking into doing one of those. I plan to run 33's now and go to 35's in the near future. I think yall are right in saying, wait on the 60's until I can get a YJ or a CJ. I will figure it out like this, I'f I need the 60's, I'll probably be putting them into a trail only rig anyway. I think the 8.8 will be fine for a daily driver. Thanks for the help guys. If it's been done, yall have done it. Easy to get info here. Thanks again.
wareagle83 said:Now that those prices are broken down a little better, I do agree with yall. You've done it before, so I know your right. I was suspect of building one for a grand too, but my local shop, the two guy sthat run it, suggested that it could be built for a grand. But in the tlak fo things, I guess they could have forgotten that they woudl still charge me for the welding, cutting, and all of the labor on gears and such. OR mayeb they want to do ti all for free!!! LOL Not likely. I have found numerous 8.8's and think I am looking into doing one of those. I plan to run 33's now and go to 35's in the near future. I think yall are right in saying, wait on the 60's until I can get a YJ or a CJ. I will figure it out like this, I'f I need the 60's, I'll probably be putting them into a trail only rig anyway. I think the 8.8 will be fine for a daily driver. Thanks for the help guys. If it's been done, yall have done it. Easy to get info here. Thanks again.
Wise decision
pick n pull a 30 spline 60 with 4.10's. Weld it. Put it in. Run it till it breaks or blows up, then build one. 
Thats what I did, I had $120 into an axle that lasted me 2.5 years Once you actually DO go big, then build it with 35 spline stuff, etc. But why do all that now when you can get an axle in there and run for the time being......take your time collecting parts, THEN build it when you do go with bigger tires. by the time you need 35 spline shafts etc, you will be doing tranny and tcase swaps too
Thats what I did, I had $120 into an axle that lasted me 2.5 years Once you actually DO go big, then build it with 35 spline stuff, etc. But why do all that now when you can get an axle in there and run for the time being......take your time collecting parts, THEN build it when you do go with bigger tires. by the time you need 35 spline shafts etc, you will be doing tranny and tcase swaps too uuuhhh, at the risk of sounding stupid (which I do fairly regularily).....
Sound like you're now planning on the 60 to go in the rear, right?
OK, from the point of view of someone who barely knows what he is doing who has now managed to do it 3 times, here's a bit of advice:
Figure out what you are going to do with the front axle FIRST.
The reason is that if you later decide to go for a 60 in the front, you MIGHT have trouble getting one done economically that will be narrow enough to match a standard width TJ axle. With all the brackets and all, what is the narrowest that you can make a front 60? Might be in the 64 inch range. This means that you'd want to make your rear axle around 62 inches wide. If you custom narrow something to 60 inches or so, then you might regret it, because it might be too narrow or whatever. This is especially true if you later decide you want a WIDER front axle.
I'm not sure what your end goal is, or what your thought process is, but I guess what I'm saying is: Getting a rear axle the width you want it a lot easier than getting a front the width you want, so it ends up being front width that determines rear width, if that makes sense.
Anyway, point is think about what you're going to end up doing with the front axle before making final cuts in the rear axle, IMHO.
Chad
Sound like you're now planning on the 60 to go in the rear, right?
OK, from the point of view of someone who barely knows what he is doing who has now managed to do it 3 times, here's a bit of advice:
Figure out what you are going to do with the front axle FIRST.
The reason is that if you later decide to go for a 60 in the front, you MIGHT have trouble getting one done economically that will be narrow enough to match a standard width TJ axle. With all the brackets and all, what is the narrowest that you can make a front 60? Might be in the 64 inch range. This means that you'd want to make your rear axle around 62 inches wide. If you custom narrow something to 60 inches or so, then you might regret it, because it might be too narrow or whatever. This is especially true if you later decide you want a WIDER front axle.
I'm not sure what your end goal is, or what your thought process is, but I guess what I'm saying is: Getting a rear axle the width you want it a lot easier than getting a front the width you want, so it ends up being front width that determines rear width, if that makes sense.
Anyway, point is think about what you're going to end up doing with the front axle before making final cuts in the rear axle, IMHO.
Chad
Very good point indeed. That does make sense. I will go Dana 60's btu they will be on my trail rig and that isn't anytime soon. But when I do decide to go big, I'll check in back here, and get yalls help again. I think the 8.8 will be a wise decision as Beast 40 said. Thanks again.
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