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Discussion Starter #1
This is a dup of the one I posted in General 4x4, but I have not gotten a response?

Yep, finally got the rig up and running, shifting forward instead of back, and I'm ready to take to Johnson Valley this weekend. However, I have one error code to trouble shoot first. Can you help?
Here is the code:
P1860
TCC PWM Solenoid Circuit Electrical/ Transmission Transfer Case Contact Plate 'D' Short Circuit To Battery

What ever that means?

I have hooked the trany up to a separate computer, and shifted it through its gears beautifully. So, the trany, inside and out, is working perfectly.

Here are they symtoms...I put it in rear wheel high, took it out of park, and slipped it into drive. It went forward fine, but when I tried to make a turn, the motor really bogged down. Additionally when I step on the gas to "punch it" the motor also boggs down.

At higher speeds, the motor cuts in and out as if the fuel is sloshing around in the gas tank...which is full (so it is not a gas issue). I don't think this is a motor issue either...Trany hook up prob or something.

OK, I have a 96 Vortec 350 and a 4L60e trany. I was having the same problem, but swapped computers. My old computer was programmed for a 4L80e...this one is for a 4L60e.

Everything looks to be in good shape, and the entire wire harness is hooked up properly.

Can anybody make sense of this?

Oh, one more thing. The VSS...I drilled and tapped the trany for the speed sensor, and I put on the 40 tooth reluctor ring.
 

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You're gonna have to pony up the bucks and get you a GM manual for troubleshooting these codes, I work on these all day and I never try to do anything without either the flow chart from the Snap on Scanner or the service manual.
Not even the most seasoned GM trained tech will attempt it unless it is a common problem he sees weekly...... What really hacks me is a flow chart has a path starting at the first item to check all the way down to the final, somtimes 10 or more steps, which often is "substitute known good ECM":confused: :confused:

Butch
 

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you also need a wiring diagram for that particular Vortec. Post up that sucker.

If I had to just guess, I would say that whatever contact D is, it is always getting a hot signal when it expects to see some kind of on/off transition. Are you sure that it is wired up right?

You could also try just disconnecting that connector at the tranny. The engine should run anyway although converter lock up and OD may not work properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I did buy a manual...finally. Of course I have not cracked it open yet...I guess that should have been my first move. Anyway do you guys think that there might be a problem with the Vehicle speed sensor? I had taken it out, and it looked like the teeth from the reluctor ring had hit it a little...I am not sure if that matters or not, but it's a start.
 

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RTFM! :D

Texican... one thing I hate about flow charts, they show what is the MOST common failure. They always assume the wiring harness is fine. :rolleyes: Classic was the Dodge Dakota... TPS sensor was reading incorrectly.... final item "replace computer"... catch was the HORN button harness was shorted out placing +12V onto the "ground line"... not enough current to trigger the horn relay, yet back feeding the ground of the TPS bringing it up to 12V...

Funny, I actually MISS that sort of stuff. :(

Tom :usa:
 

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Funny, I actually MISS that sort of stuff.

Tom


It's obvious by this statement
1. You are a warped individual (old news )
2. You were not trying to make a living being paid flat rate, and keep customers:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
BTW Pinhead, all the GM manuals have the wiring diagram included, they do not show the location of connectors and stuff like the main wiring manual.......

Butch
 

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I only have the wiring diagram for my former 88 Suburban TBI, so it is of no use. I did a little checking on the function of the PWM Solenoid circuit and I doubt that it is related to any engine problems because it controls smooth torque converter lock up, but it would probably run better disconnected than shorted. It may be related to VSS function, but if the VSS wasn't functioning properly it should set VSS-related eror codes too. Since you get the same message with two different computers, I would suspect that the wire is either shorted or not wired correctly.

This is from the GM web site on the 4l80e:
http://media.gm.com/division/gmc/products/GMC_transmissions_4L80E_features.html

SMOOTH SHIFTS
A pulse-width modulated (PWM) solenoid allows for the gradual application and release of the torque converter clutch for smooth operation and maximum fuel economy. A solenoid is a switch that uses electrical current passing through a coil of wire to magnetize (and therefore actuate) a plunger. In the case of the PWM solenoid, electronic signals from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) govern when and for how long the solenoid is energized, which in turn controls the hydraulic fluid that applies or disengages the converter clutch. The PCM signals are based on vehicle operating conditions. Under normal circumstances the converter clutch is applied only in fourth gear.

Additionally, the upshift from first gear to second gear (typically the shift with the most load) is cushioned through the use of a wave plate and a controlled-pressure servomechanism. A controlled-pressure servomechanism uses hydraulic fluid pressure working against spring force to control a piston, which helps control the apply feel of the second clutch. A wave plate is a steel plate in the clutch pack with a waved surface (like a potato chip), so that it offers resistance when it is squeezed flat.
 

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Check my message in the general board. Should help you out. You will need a manual, unless you want to drop the pan to see which wires go to the TCC solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you guys! I do have an update.

The computer was giving me the one error code, and at low speeds 1-3 gear, it seemed to be running fine. When it shifted into 4 gear, the motor started cutting out...I think this is because it was running in safe mode.

Anyway, I also heard a rattle when driving...it was almost unnoticable at low speed <5 MPH. However as I picked up speed, the noise grew loud and more consistant...it sounded like coins in a dryer....kind of inconsistant, and almost that exact same clanking noise. I looked everywhere to see if something was rubbing the body. Driveshaft on the oil pan? Nope, my grinding had taken care of that...I had painted over it, so if it did grind, it would scrape the paint away in the spots it was touching...all the paint was there.

Friday afternoon I towed it to Safari Gard. Greg Jevne took me around on his course to check out the vehicle. It worked great exept for the above mentioned problem...so, we went to JONSON VALLEY.

We decided to do one run before it got dark, and I figured this would be a good test run for it. If I broke, no big deal we could get it back to camp and wheel all day Saturday. Well getting to the trail sucked because of the few funny noises...but I got there. Once on the trail I did very well. The motor was not suppling the power of a 350, so my driving style had to change a bit...usually I try to roll through things, and tap the trottle when I get a little hung up. I had to almost floor it to get the wheels to even turn when I got stuck!

Anyway, long story short. It made that trail (Sledge) and Wrecking Ball the next day. I decided to park it because I had bent my tie rod, but right when I got to camp, trany fluid started dripping off the skid plate? So I quickly loaded it up on the trailer where it rests now. I think the clicking noise may have been the reluctor ring for the VSS? I will keep you posted.

Now, if I wanted to skip all the trany problems, could I go with a 700r4? Or would I need another computer? Would I need another wire harness?

I will post pics of the run soon. We had a few cool pics, and ran into a few other POR members as well.

Later...Ryan
 
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