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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Charly!

I have a YJ, and just came accross a local guy selling a 75 Jeep Cherokee
(full size).

I read about the Wagoneer axle swaps, but did not find anything about the full size Cherokees. Would the ones from the 75 Cherokee work as well? Is the pumpkin positioning the same? I believe that 82 and up Wagoneers have a different pumpkin setup.

If it fits, what additional mods will I need to do (perches, etc?) I greatly
appreciate your help!


Here is a pic of the beast:
picture of the 1975 Cherokee for sale

[ 08-22-2001: Message edited by: Gui ]
 

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My front 44 is out of a cherokee chief.

ther is about a 4 inch difference in width between waggy and chief axles

don't bother if it has the closed knuckles though
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Rocktoad,

Thansk for the help. What do you mean by not bothering if it has the closed knuckles? How can I check that? I am sorry, I am not very familiar with FS Jeeps <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"> Or anything for that matter, hehe!


Thanks for the help!

Originally posted by Rocktoad:
<STRONG>My front 44 is out of a cherokee chief.

ther is about a 4 inch difference in width between waggy and chief axles

don't bother if it has the closed knuckles though</STRONG>
 

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If you look at the steering knuckles and you can see the steering ujoints yuo have an open knuckle 44 if it looks like one big ball and socket assembly just like a toyota front end then you have a closed knucke design.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Rocktoad, thanks again for the info. I forgot to ask you, will the rear 44 also be almosta bolt on setup? Do you know what the pumpkin positioning is? Also, what will I ned to do to get rid of the six lug setup and replace with the stock 5X4.5 on the YJ?

Thanks again,

Gui

Originally posted by Rocktoad:
<STRONG>If you look at the steering knuckles and you can see the steering ujoints yuo have an open knuckle 44 if it looks like one big ball and socket assembly just like a toyota front end then you have a closed knucke design.</STRONG>
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Rocksut, thansk for the info again. Is not there a way to replace the setup, re-drill or even (argh!) ad some (argh) spacers to keep my stock 5 lugs? What about the rear dif, would it work on my YJ, pumpkin-wise <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">?

Thnaks again,

Gui

Originally posted by Rockslut.:
<STRONG>75 will be open knuckle.

"Also, what will I ned to do to get rid of the six lug setup and replace with the stock 5X4.5 on the YJ?"
Uh.... you're gonna need new rims.</STRONG>
 

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what about the front diff? is it pass side or drivers? and is the diff housing in the way of SOA perches? like to do SOA would you have to grind the housing away and weld on new perches?
thanks
 

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You all have missed the most obvious no can do about this swap. The front pumpkin is on the wrong side for a YJ. Also, if it has the quadra trac transfer case the rear diff is passenger side offset also. For a YJ you want a 1980 or newer Grand Waggie to pull axles from. Through late '86 the rear axle will be a model 20, not a 44. That's okay though because the full aize 20's have the one-piece axles and thicker tubes than the CJ variety. Late '86 through '91 used a 44 in the rear. All rears from '80 and up are centered diffs.
 

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I think I have a couple sets of 6 lug wheels Gui...contact me if you get the axles I will make you a good deal. Hey Rockslut...doesnt that model 44 have a passenger drop?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The tarnny on the Cherokee I have my eyes on is a turbo 350 automatic transmission, running on a 360 V-8 engine. I have not seen the position of the pumpkins yet, and the guy will be clling and letting me know about it. Anybody knows a place wheer I could find tech\mechanical info on the 75 cherokee setup?

Thanks again for the info and all teh help!


Originally posted by Keith Strong:
<STRONG>I think I have a couple sets of 6 lug wheels Gui...contact me if you get the axles I will make you a good deal. Hey Rockslut...doesnt that model 44 have a passenger drop?</STRONG>
 

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if its a th350 then it isnt the factory setup, they did use th400s from teh factory in that vintage though.

it either has a dana 20 transfercase, or a Qtrack.

either way the front diff will be on teh passenger side, so unless you want to run a different tcase it wont play.

also if its the qtrack tcase the rear axle wont be centered.

pass on it in favor of a 80 or newer wag/grand wag
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yep, you gys are right, I will pass on it. It sounded tooo good,hehe!


Thansk for all the help!

Gui

Originally posted by ozarkjeep:
<STRONG>if its a th350 then it isnt the factory setup, they did use th400s from teh factory in that vintage though.

it either has a dana 20 transfercase, or a Qtrack.

either way the front diff will be on teh passenger side, so unless you want to run a different tcase it wont play.

also if its the qtrack tcase the rear axle wont be centered.

pass on it in favor of a 80 or newer wag/grand wag</STRONG>
 

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for a YJ you have to get axles out of a mid to late 80's waggy! the 75 had offset pumkings and the front one is on the wrong side!
 

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Originally posted by willybender:
<STRONG>for a YJ you have to get axles out of a mid to late 80's waggy! the 75 had offset pumkings and the front one is on the wrong side!</STRONG>
Hmmm, is there an echo in the room?
 

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Now, I have a question to add.. if I were to put 80+ grand waggy axles in a 95 YJ, how much work needs to be done to put them in?? I am not sure on the difference in spring width, and such. And are the u-joints the same on the rear end?? I know these are probabally the easiest swap for a YJ out there.. but how easy is it really?? thanks. Garrett
 

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Originally posted by PW:
<STRONG>Now, I have a question to add.. if I were to put 80+ grand waggy axles in a 95 YJ, how much work needs to be done to put them in?? I am not sure on the difference in spring width, and such. And are the u-joints the same on the rear end?? I know these are probabally the easiest swap for a YJ out there.. but how easy is it really?? thanks. Garrett</STRONG>
About 3 bananas. <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"> Just make sure you're looking for an '87 to '91 Waggy. Any earlier and they probably had the vacuum disco 44 front.

I performed this swap front and rear on my YJ. It really simplifies things if you buy new (6-bolt) wheels at the same time and I really don't know why more people don't go this route rather than swapping knuckles and drilling axle flanges and shit.

Anyhow, if you're sticking with SUA (I did), you just need to remove the rear spring perches and weld some new ones on the bottom for the rear and move the post holes inboard by 1/2-inch each and do a little grinding on the pumpkin for the front. Oh yeah--you have to weld some new shock mounts on the rear tubes too.

That would give you front and rear 44s that would basically bolt-in in place of your stock axles (minus swaybar and trackbars) for under $500 easy.

However, if that was all you did, you'd end up with a couple of open-diff'd 2.73-geared axles that would be really scary on the corners. If you want to do it right and re-gear and add lockers and connect your swaybar (you don't really need the trackbars) and do all the shit you really should do to a junkyard axle (like new bearings, U-joints, balljoints, paint, etc.) it all really starts to add up.

I spent close to 5 grand when I swapped axles, but that includes things like five new (6-bolt) wheels (AR Atlas = not cheap) and Ox Lockers and high clearance U-joint solutions (Dynatrac U-bolt flip in the rear and JKS B3 plates up front). If I had just gone with Detroits and some cheapie rims it'd have been WAYYYY cheaper (to the tune of a couple grand probably...)

Also, keep in mind that I did everything but the inside-the-pumpkin stuff. If you're not going to do everything yourself, just give your money to Currie or Dynatrac. you'll spend less. Paying some outfit to re-build junkyard axles isn't cost-effective.

In any case you're talking a few grand and some not-too technical work to do it right. If you can use a grinder, a welder, and a tape measure, you'll do fine.

HTH,
Jake Harsha
Hunt Technologies
Pequot Lakes, MN

[ 08-23-2001: Message edited by: Jakesteramalamajama ]
 

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well i was hoping the diff was on the pass side cause i am putting a D300 in a YJ so i need the pass side drop. So with that is there enough room on top of the axles so you can just weld new perches onto the tubes and is the castor acceatable for a YJ sprung over with stock to 2.5 springs. i think theres enough room and castor is right but want to make sure
 

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well i was hoping the diff was on the pass side cause i am putting a D300 in a YJ so i need the pass side drop. So with that is there enough room on top of the axles so you can just weld new perches onto the tubes and is the castor acceatable for a YJ sprung over with stock to 2.5 springs. i think theres enough room and castor is right but want to make sure
 
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