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Discussion Starter #1
The trailer is 14' and the 4Runner sits either up against the front rail or a few inches back. I'm using chains/binders but because the nose of the truck is so close to the front of the trailer, I need help with tieing the front down.

What's the best way to chain the front? The binder damn near reaches the axle from the D ring. Thinking about running a chain from passenger D ring under axle, over third and back under axle to driver D ring. Binder may work on the driver's side. Or can I just run the chain that same way but hook each end to D rings w/o binders then chain the rear tight pulling the truck back to tighten the front chain? Here's a pic. Thanks guys.

 

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Well I dont see a D-ring on the trailer, I hope your not using the rings on the top railing :eek:
what I do with mine that works well is just put the chain on the front as tight as you can get it, then back the rig up a few inches untill the chain is tight and use the chain and binder on the back. works great.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The D rings aren't installed yet, actually I doubt you'd see them anyway, they'll be hiding behind that lower frame. Those little hooks must be for a tarp or something. Your way is kinda what I was thinking but wanted to make sure it was ok not to have opposite tension via front binder. Thanks.
 

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Could you use your chains, and pull the front axle towards the back of the trailer, and the back axle towards the front of the trailer? with the 4 chains, cross and pulling against each other, I think it would be ok. I have hauled plenty of loads this way, and seen countless other loads chained down this way (Disclaimer: I know that seeing or doing the above setup doesnt necessarily make it right) Just adding my .02
 

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Passenger side tongue rail to driver side of axle. Driver side tongue rail to passenger side of axle. Two chains, two binders. While I'm on the subject of the tongue.... you should consider welding a fish plate over the joint on the tongue splice.
 

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I agree with ^^ That tongue splice could use a little reinforcement, that not much overlap for my taste. Maybe box it too, just seems like a lot to ask of just some angle iron.


Then weld a couple Tie-Down rings to the tongue. Maybe a foot or so forward of the deck. Cross the front chains (or straps) and go to the axles. Done deal.


If you use quality straps (like the Mac's set) they will probably work better as the ratchets take up much less room than chain boomers.
 

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WOW, that tongue scares the hell out of me.:eek: If it's welded well, the lack of a fishplate at the joint doesn't bug me nearly as much as that angle iron tongue.

As for the tie down question, I would put d-rings on the front face of the front crossmember a few inches outboard of the tongue on each side, chain it down in the front, then use binders in the back, as suggested above. I prefer binders in front, but it looks hard to do in your case.

I tie mine down like this:


By the way, running a single chain on each end is illegal. You need 4 tie downs (or a single chain on each end, but hooked up to act like two independent chains).
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Alright by fish plating it do you mean a plate on the outside of the joint? It's hard to see in the pic but the insides are already boxed with plate. The tounge was a concern but the boxed splice looks pretty strong. Aside from the fish, would I be better to just cut this whole tounge off and weld a new one on? Something made of channel that sits under the frame like a bigger trailer? Why would they cut/splice the tounge to raise it? Wouldn't a dropped ball mount be cheaper? I don't think the trailer company did that. Anyway, add fish plates on the outside like this?,

 

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Yes, I would probably just cut it off and replace it with some channel like a normal tongue, then fish plate it. Fishplates (at least for what you're doing) look like a diamond shape to eliminate stress areas.
 

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If it were me, and I had the time, yah, I'd lop the entire tongue off and use C Channel, 4" would be fine since I doubt thats more than a 7K trailer. Take the channel under the deck then extended it 2+ feet out, then if you still need the "rise" for the coupler, stack another piece of C on top from the deck all the way forward to the coupler. Now you have like 2' of weld area rather than the couple inches you have now.

Rectangular tubing would work as well and look cleaner. 2"x4" would be plenty.


Better yet, double stack the tongue like I mentioned (strength wise you probably not need it, but I like them) then use This:
and
or

Welded on the end for adjustability. I know my next trailer will have something like that.
 

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If you go with an adjustable, I HIGHLY recommend sleeving the coupler, and welding extensions onto the trailer side. I found out my trailer thunk was because the 3 - 3/4" bolts had made 3 - 1"+ holes.:eek: Yes, the bolts were still tight. You can't physically tighten them enough without deforming the coupler, due to no sleeves.

I made sure that didn't happen again, I can tighten them up quite well now.


 

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If you think it's strong enough, then I'd fishplate the outside, box the angle with another angle, and throw a tube between the two lowers and call it good. I'd take the height clearance of hte entire tongue over a drop ball any day given the option to do it safelty, which it appears you have.


:usa:
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Thanks for th help guys here's what I ended up doing and the truck was tied down tighter than a clams ass. D rings are bolted and welded. No way it was going anywhere.




Looks a little funny being a short trailer but it towed surprisingly well. On the way back from Rausch Creek I added a small ratchet strap on each side from the slider to the trailer. This took care of any body sway I had on the trip up.

 
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