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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I cant figure it out. I have went through 3 brand new Mater Brake Cylendars. All three have been leaking from one cup to another. After I installed the last one i could not get any fluid to come out of the wheel cylendar bleeder at the furthest wheel. I tried disconnecting all brake lines fron the master cylendar one at a time and blowing air just to make sure there were no clogs. I still couldnt get any fluid to come through the bleeder. I did get fluid to come through the T connection on the axel. I have heard that i need to replace my rear wheel cylendars and i have also heard that i have air in the master cylendar. In the rear on each side i have one new wheel cylendar and one old one. I was also told that i need to open all bleeders and gravity bleed the system. My master cylendar does not have the bleeders on it. What do you think???? <IMG SRC="smilies/pissed.gif" border="0">
 

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Did you bench bleed the master? What kind of master cylinder are you buying? Stay away from remans (unless you do them yourself), and buy Japanese.
 

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If it is just the bleeder that won't flow...
Remove the bleeder and clean it out.
It is probably full of gunk ;-)

Cory
 

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This is true that the bleeder valves always get clogged with rust/dirt. If you are pumping pressure up to the T fitting on the axle then it seems as thought the master cylinder is working. Just pull the bleeders all the way out and clean them with thin wire and compressed air. With the bleeders out, you should be able to hit the pedal and blow fluid out. If not, then somthing is wrong between the T-fitting and the wheel cylinder other than the bleeder valve.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i did not bench bleed the master cylendar. My manual said i did not have to if i dont have bleeders on the master cylendar. I gvavity bled the rear and fluid was coming out, but it is still spilling out of th front cup on the master cylendar. This isnt the firs time today someone said i should bleed the master cylendar. Can i still do this or did i ruin the master cylendar?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i also did blow air throught the lines systematically and air did come out of the rear bleeders. But what has me boggled is the fluid is coming out of the front cup...
 

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Not sure what you mean by fluid out of the front cup...
But, Yes, you should bench bleed the master.
You can't wreck it by not doing so. You just end up with air in the master.

To bench bleed:
Use an old line or a fitting with some hose on it to run the lines from the master right back into the master and just pump away slowly until the lines submerged in the master stop pushing bubbles and just flow fluid. Then connect the lines for the truck and "burp" any air out of the fittings at the master before you tighten them up.
(this is just a time saver)
Now bleed normally and the problem should go away ;-)

Only other problem I can see is a mis-adjustment of the rod into the master from the pedal or booster.

Cory
 

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You didn't really explain your symtoms too clearly..

Are you getting "backwash" into the master cylinder? Only thing I can think of other than what's been mentioned before is possibly a funked up proportioning valve. If its a stock setup, its located right on the break booster. Take it apart (careful, there's springs inside) and clean it out.

More details will get you better help...

Disks or Drums?

what year and model Cruiser?

What did you do to it?
 
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