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i dont understand why you would want to build a weak link, why not just build it as tough as you can and not have to worry about a stupid fusible link
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Would you rather break a ring and pinion, u-joint, or stub shaft that seizes to the spindle? Not everybody has Dana 60's and 14 bolts.
Travis
 

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MOGXJ44 said:
Would you rather break a ring and pinion, u-joint, or stub shaft that seizes to the spindle? Not everybody has Dana 60's and 14 bolts.
Travis
Instead of spending money on a fusible link, they should use their money towards some heavy duty axles. Almost as dumb as warn's hub fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Warn's hub fuses didn't work out because they come after the locker where a little bit of bind can cause failure. This would be ahead of that bind, so it wouldn't matter what kind of differential was used.
Travis
 

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Neat idea for it's intended use - Semi's

Certainly would do less damage than the alternative. I remember in college when I drove tanker trucks, one of the other kids forgot to release the parking brakes on an old White, dropped the clutch and sent the driveshaft and end of the pinion rolling across the yard.

Wouldn't think it would work very well in a trail rig. Seems like it would be hard to size them properly to protect the parts without having them snap un-necessarily
 

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MOGXJ44 said:
Clicky, clicky here
Travis
definitly not for a trail rig. those are used a lot in the farming world behind PTO's so you cant engage the PTO at too high of a speed causing a gearbox on something to blow up. saw a guy weld one up on a shredder then had the tractor at about 3/4 of the RPM range and engage the PTO for the shredder, he ended up almost being killed by the gears from the gearbox coming through the window of the cab on the tractor.

definitly not for a trail rig, has its place elsewhere in the automotive world

wes
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Once the device is installed on the driveshaft it should be an easy and cheap task to find the happy medium between constant breakage and not enough protection. The pins that shear can't be that expensive and replacing them is easy. Size it according to what you want to protect. If you don't mind changing ujoints or stub shafts then size the pins to protect only the really expensive damage like busted ring and pinions or tcase output shafts. I've seen a few transmission output shafts that the owner wasn't too pleased to have to fix. Awful lot of work.
Travis
 

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This exact same thing has been discussed before.

And while you may be able to predict the torque your DS will take you can't count for the stop/go jerky motion of hopping, slipping, or ripping through the rocks with torque going from 0 to a BUNCH really fast..
 

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Todd W said:
This exact same thing has been discussed before.

And while you may be able to predict the torque your DS will take you can't count for the stop/go jerky motion of hopping, slipping, or ripping through the rocks with torque going from 0 to a BUNCH really fast..
I second that, but one thing you can do is go easy on the skinny pedal untill you have enough $$$ to build your shit up, and put your money in your driveline first, not your engine its worked for me pretty well.
 

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I agree, it just seams like a something thats going to give you more headache than what its worth. Save your $ and upgrade your axles, plane and simple. IMHO too many gyzmos on the trail just ask for failer and are major PITA.

john
 
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