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Woody, I was looking at the pics of your cage and noticed the offset on the front tube to the floor. Do you find it to be enough clearance to get in and out without any problems?
I am about to order the tubing for my cage and I have a pretty good idea of how I want to build it. I am very open for any do's and dont's kind of advice.
I think I am going to go nontraditional with the design. I plan to make the main hoop run from front to back of the rig instead of driver to pass side. The main reason for this is due to the tight trails we run around here. I seem to hit the bend of the hoop on trees in off camber situations.Where if I had a straight tube running the length of the tub, a tree would just rub the tubing as I pass by instead of grabbing the hoop as it does now. I plan on making a family cage to keep the yunguns safe. I also will ,in the future,tie the seats to the cage when I buy a smaller than 2'' tubing die.
I have figured it will take roughly 120' of tube to build what I want not counting what I will use on screwups.
Sorry for the long post. Also, how about some pics fellas?
TIA
 

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The offset is great...leaves plenty of toe room on the front for getting in and out. (However, I lost some of that advantage when the caging for the seats went in...)

IMO, the hoops should always run across the vehicle. I would rather rely on a continuous tube on a sideways roll than on a series of welded pieces.

If you are having problems with tree sliding, add short stringers to smooth the transition between. I've got those on my cage and they work great.
 

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rusty,

I agree with woody that you may want to look at a different option for the hoop. I built a halo on mine and bent the front vertical bars into the halo to help the tree troubles.
Here is a pic:

Also with the halo I was able to blend in evenly with the main hoop and rear kicker to help the sliding on trees.
there are more pics on my website under modifications
HTH
 
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