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Alright guys, well ive searched and have found some good stuff, but not what ive been looking for. I have the kinker from harbor freight. I know, its a pipe bender, but I am using pipe for what im making. Heres my question... Im using schedule 80, 1 1/4" PIPE. I need to make a 90 degree bend in it. Ive tried and tried... is this just not possible with that bender? or are the rollers just set wrong? If it is possible do you think yall guys could give me some tips on how to get what I want??? THANKS A BUNCH!!
 

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on some pipe it says it on the side. the walls are about 1/4" thick if its thinner its 40. thats the best i can describe it w/o getting technical :D
 

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You never said what was happening to the pipe or which size bender you were using, but I've bent 1.5" sch 80 to 90* with a 12ton hf bender more than once with no problems.
 

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im using the 12 ton HF pipe bender with the 1 1/4" die. what happens is the pipe starts coming off the die and crimping.
 

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Do you have the rollers all the way out, to do a 90 I start with them all the way out until I max out the ram, then readjust the rollers to the next hole in and take it to 90. No problems yet, but I used schedule 40 not 80.
 

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Ive done 1 1/2 and 1 1/4. I can make a perfect S with the 1.5 but cant even get a descent 90* out of the 1.25. I think it can be done but i havnt found the right combo yet. Do like posted above and put the rollers all the way out on the ends. that may be the ticket?
 

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I made these two using the HF pipe bender, though it was with 1.5" tube. I got a bit more than a 90 out of the front bumper and exactly 90's out of the rear.

I had to cap the pipes, then fill em with sand packing it down with a broomstick every few feet though. Welded the top closed, bent the pipe and then cut em open and emptied before doing the rest. Without the sand it was impossible.
 

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The HF benders are intended for schedule 40 pipe. (approx 1/8 in. wall)
since pipe sizes are the nominal i.d. , the thicker wall will make the O.D. larger, putting you into the next larger die which will not fit properly and kink the pipe. you should be able to bend sch. 40 just fine. if you are bent (pun intended) on using sch. 80 pipe, order up some weld fittings and put it together that way. i'm not sure about all the benders, but i was looking at the thread for the homebuilt bender, (i think it uses JD2 dies) and i didn't see any dies there for 1/4 wall material. the tubing dies will kink pipe as well, due to the pipe not fitting the dies properly. Doug
 

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The HF benders are intended for schedule 40 pipe. (approx 1/8 in. wall)
since pipe sizes are the nominal i.d. , the thicker wall will make the O.D. larger,
Doug
I dont think this is right. All 1.5 pipe has the same OD at 1.9 inches.

The ID is nominal like you said, so it changes with wall thickness (different schedules).

http://www.engineersedge.com/pipe_schedules.htm
 

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I've had some success using a pair of plates where the pipe meets the roller wheels also. Make them out of larger pipe -- 2" for 1.5" etc. They allow the pipe to slide instead of bind up and kink in the rollers.

I've also used a sanding drum to fit the die to the pipe. Sometimes they are not cast accurately and need some cleaning up.

As others have said, rollers need to be all the way outboard.
 

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I've never had a problem, never filled with sand or anything else.





Do 3 bends. One on each side first, then the final bend between them. I usually do the first two bends with the rollers on the second hole from the end, than do the third hole with the rollers third from the end.
 

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i was having issues with the sides of my die not giving enuff side suport, so i built them up. would have been much easier to use 3/8 square stock.



 

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Ive found it helps a lot to lube the rollers inside on the pin and silicon or lithium grease where they contact the pipe also lube the die. Also as has been said start with the rollers all the way out then move them in as needed to complete the bend.
 

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One other thing that I found a very good mod for the bender is to bolt it to a rolling motor stand. You can swivel it around as needed, plus it holds itself up and rolls around at will.

Just drill four holes in the side plates of the bender and it will bolt right up.
 

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Add heat about 2-3 inches off the center of the bend radius helps too.

and X2 on the sand and caps

Sleeve with an internal pipe if weight is not an option

You can also add longitudinal weld beads (ribs or ridges) in the center where you expect the pipe to collapse-then grind them off ofter the bend is completed
 

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Cheap pipe

Low quality pipe tends to kink easier than the good stuff. You may want to try with a piece from a steel supplier instead of Home Depot or Lowes.
 
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