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Discussion Starter #1
I'll be working out a hi steer system on a D44 for a TJ using Chevy flat top knuckles and Dynatrac arms. I'm having the arms sent blank, I'll be drilling the holes.
I know its important to not mount the drag link closer in than the stock location (stresses ball joint too much) so it'll be right above the stock hole in the horn.
The tie rod will mount in front of that.
My question: what is the down side to mounting the tie rod further out (forward) other than tire/wheel clearance? I know the further out it goes, the more leverage (stress) on the arm and its mounting bolts in the knuckle. Anything else to worry about? Loss or turning radius?
I have to mount it maybe an inch or two further out (forward) than I'd like to clear the track bar mount on the frame at full stuff. Its not stock.
If I can't do that I'll have to put the tie rod on the stock arms.
 

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The arms should come with mounting bores to encorporate the tie rod as well. Why would you keep the tie rod under when you could have it over? If there's interfearance with the drag link, then move your steering box or try different pitman arms (or in combination) so that it all clears. If yer gunna do it, do it right. <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">

Oh, and you're right about keeping thigs where they were. I'd avoid pushing out the connection point geometry of the drag link and tie rod. Keeping them as close to where they were would be optimal. Pushing out the tie rod would do nothing to inhibit your turning radius as the two points will move together, all it will do is put more stress on the arms and put the rod itself in harms way. Putting it too close to the knuckle will put more stress on the pitman arm, steering box and draglink. Remember, changing the geometry of one thing requires you to look at all related systems. Keep it close, if not right on to where stock was, it was designed that way for a reaon. IMHO of course. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

[ 11-01-2001: Message edited by: Loppy ]
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, I'm trying to figure a way to put it over. If I put it over in exactly the stock location, the TR hits the track bar mount on the frame at stuff on the driver's side. <IMG SRC="smilies/mad.gif" border="0">
Not an issue for the drag link, since that goes down to the pass side of course. So my options are to mount the tie rod low enough to clear the track bar mount on the frame by staying low enough to be under it, or to mount it (tie rod only) forward enough to clear the track bar mount by sliding up in front of it.
Dynatrack will send arms without mounting holes, and since I want to keep as close to stock doing this as I can (and I think I'll not <IMG SRC="smilies/crybaby2.gif" border="0"> too much if I have to use a drill press) I'll have them send blank arms.
thanks
 

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Originally posted by Lucy's Driver:
<STRONG>I'll be working out a hi steer system on a D44 for a TJ using Chevy flat top knuckles and Dynatrac arms.</STRONG>
Dude, help me out here, you may have stumbled onto something that's been perplexing me for a while. ... a few questions for ya'...

Are the chevy D44 knuckles identical to the Jeep pieces in critical dimensions?

Also, can those Chevy knuckles be gotten with "HD" axletube ears? My buddies with Jeep D44 front ends keep bending the ears leading to the same effect as negative camber.

Ideally, I would like to find new ears to weld onto the tubes. I asked Dynatrac that same question but I don't think they understood what I was looking for. They just tried to sell me one of their 60 front ends.

cm "d44 ears are the same as d30 pieces" k
 

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Well, for starters their inner knuckles, not "ears". <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

There is no heavier duty version, if you note on Currie built frontends, they weld in a gusset to lower knuckle portion to keep it from bending. A 44 is a 44 is a 44, there all way beefier than TJ,YJ,XJ,ZJ inner knuckles.

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, the D44 will take bigger ball joints than the D30, so its gotta be heavier. No part number or anything on me right now.
 

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Originally posted by XJS:
<STRONG>A 44 is a 44 is a 44, there all way beefier than TJ,YJ,XJ,ZJ inner knuckles.</STRONG>
So you're assuming that all TJ, YJ, XJ, and ZJ's come with d30 front ends and in most cases that is true. But ... in South America or South Africa, I forget which, TJ's are available with d44 front ends. These are the same front ends that my buddies are running and are still bending the "inner knuckles" (thank you). If you look at them side by side with the domestic d30 front ends, the inners look to be identical.

Rather than welding in a "crutch" it would be cool if beefier inners could be gotten and welded in. That would also yield an oppurtunity to correct for the caster angle being off after big lift and aiming the pinion at the T-case.

cm "someone needs to come up with a reactive caster solid axle" k
 

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, if you note on Currie built frontends, they weld in a gusset to lower knuckle portion to keep it from bending.
I understood one of the reasosn they do this is because when they put the inner knuckles on, they (horror) only butt weld them on !!
 

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Negative on that Bill, they are pressed on. However, if I paid someone 4,000 bucks for a front axle and found out they butt welded the inner knuckles on, they would be in for a world of hurt. They use a big old horizontal press, just like dynacrack....

Andy
 

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cmk, the export D44 is identical to the 30 in many ways. It is really not that much of an upgrade over a D30. Most parts ae interchangable. Knuckles , inner and outer and all the brake stuff. I dont even know if it gets 30 splines. It the redheaded one armed step child of the 44 family. Good Luck
 

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Originally posted by Rob Kosinski:
<STRONG>cmk, the export D44 is identical to the 30 in many ways. It is really not that much of an upgrade over a D30. Most parts ae interchangable. Knuckles , inner and outer and all the brake stuff. I dont even know if it gets 30 splines. It the redheaded one armed step child of the 44 family. Good Luck</STRONG>
Thanks man. Looks like that front end is a lost cause.

cm "1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ..... 60" k
 

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posted by Pig Pen: the longer the distance the more ackremen ...if thats how you spell it??
distance (length of the arm) doesn't matter on ackerman, the distance between the arms, (the tie rod length) compared to the distance between left and right steering axis is what affects ackerman.null
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I tought that as long as the hi steer arms come out to the front on the same angle as the stock knuckle horns Ackerman will stay the same.
<IMG SRC="smilies/question.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/question.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/question.gif" border="0">
 

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you can move the tie rod front to rear.. without effecting the ackerman.. but you if you move it forward.. then you will be getting into the pitman arm.. my hi steer arms actually bring the tie rod back (towards the rear) about 1/2".. and also.. the higher you go on the knuckle.. then you get into the tire.. so you cant really move it forward.. might HAVE to bring it back to keep the tie rod end out of the tire..
i also agree with moving both of them up.. do it right..
 
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