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Discussion Starter #481
To verify that the rattling/chirping noise is coming from the belt I rerouted my window washer hose to spray at the belt and sprayed when the noise would happen. This eliminated the noise until the belt would dry off so I'm positive it's related to the belt or pulleys in some way and not the internals of the SC.

 

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Discussion Starter #482
I have 2 steering related issues that need resolving:

1) I previously mentioned this one: Turning left requires less force than turning right. I have done dry steering tests looking for interference and I don't see anything that the steering is getting hung up on. I suspect that the valve at the end of the torsion bar isn't centered correctly which is causing this issue. I'm sending it to PSC to take a look and I actually ordered a spare steering gear box to use in the meantime and keep one on the shelf.

2) I have what feels like torque steer. When I accelerate, the steering wheel must be turned to keep the Jeep going straight down the road. When putting my foot down and boost kicks in this can need a lot of correction. And if I quickly let off the gas the Jeep suddenly veers the direction I'm holding the wheel. I have cycled the suspension and jumped on the front with Mrs Tox inside to dismiss bumpsteer -- there is no discernible steering wheel movement within the amount of suspension travel seen on the street. I double checked my alignment and both axles appear to be square to each other. I also checked the johnny joints to verify that they're all in good shape and I didn't loose a snap ring. I suspect that this is either related to a bad steering gear or an issue with thrust angle alignment. I scheduled a computerized alignment for next Thursday the 7th at a shop which should be after I get the new steering gear in so I can see how well I did on my tape measure alignment (regardless of if the steering gear solves this problem). I called ahead and they're able to strap the sensors on 37s but I don't expect them to do any actual aligning of my custom linked suspension.

Video (4MB)
 

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Discussion Starter #483
I swapped pulleys around until I could fit a Gatorback belt which are supposed to be quieter and more tolerant of misalignment. Same sound under the same conditions. I'm starting to have my doubts that it's the belt making the sound.

The idlers are sealed but I tried my best to grease them.

I cleaned them up with brake cleaner which I think may have done more harm than good and packed grease in the best I could.

Same issue.

I highly suspect the lower composite pulley to be the problem. I spun it to a high rpm with air and it makes noise and feels like a bad ball bearing inside catches every few revolution. But it could also be because the bearings aren't loaded?

I'm going to see if I can find a replacement tomorrow. The parts stores are going to hate me asking for something that I have no idea the make and model its from...
 

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As I previously mentioned, the Genright Mopar roll over vents leak between the vent and the grommet when the tank is full. I called Genright up to ask about this issue and they directed me to buy new ones off their website for $30/ea + $20 shipping. I explained the situation again and asked if they'd warranty them, and they told me they buy them from Mopar. So I asked if I can warranty through Mopar and they said no and to buy new ones from their website.

Because that's dumb, I found the part numbers so they can be bought for realistic prices elsewhere:

MOPAR - J5360058 (Valve)
Dorman - 911-060 (Valve)
Ford - E7DZ-9B593-A (Valve)
MTS - MTS-EMSV2 (Valve and grommet)
MOPAR - 52018823 (Grommet)
Crown - 52018823 (Grommet)

It turns out that the vent isn't even the problem, the holes Genright cut in the tank are 1/16" too large allowing for fuel to escape.

To seal them up I wrapped the valves in silicone fusion tape to increase the body diameter and then smeared #2 gasoline safe sealant on them and shoved them back into the fuel cell. (recommended to me by MrBlaine in a random thread where I was complaining about GR's customer service)

Once the transmission repair cures I'll test this vent fix at the gas station.
I had a similar problem on my Blue Torch Fab tank, which is very similar to the Genright. The BTF tank did not come with rollover valves of any kind, so I had found out the part #'s for the Mopar valve and grommet and just ordered them on line and then made my own holes with a hole saw. One of them I think got wallowed out a little more than the other. Originally, it was leak free, but then over time I started to get some leakage visible on the top of the tank. My fix was very similar, but I used the yellow Teflon tape that is made for gas applications, so it is a little thicker than normal white Teflon tape.

Wrapped a bunch of turns around the valve to build up the diameter about 1/8" and pushed it back in the grommet. This was done with the tank out of the Jeep so I was able to tip the tank sideways and make sure there were no signs of gas seeping out of the vent/grommet area.
 

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Discussion Starter #485
I had a similar problem on my Blue Torch Fab tank, which is very similar to the Genright. The BTF tank did not come with rollover valves of any kind, so I had found out the part #'s for the Mopar valve and grommet and just ordered them on line and then made my own holes with a hole saw. One of them I think got wallowed out a little more than the other. Originally, it was leak free, but then over time I started to get some leakage visible on the top of the tank. My fix was very similar, but I used the yellow Teflon tape that is made for gas applications, so it is a little thicker than normal white Teflon tape.

Wrapped a bunch of turns around the valve to build up the diameter about 1/8" and pushed it back in the grommet. This was done with the tank out of the Jeep so I was able to tip the tank sideways and make sure there were no signs of gas seeping out of the vent/grommet area.
Nice!
 

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Discussion Starter #486
Aside from one which didn't have what I needed, the parts stores all basically told me no make, no model, no service and I had no luck getting a replacement idler.

I had contacted BoostedTech for the part number or replacement part on that pulley but so far that hasn't gone anywhere...
 

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Discussion Starter #487
BoostedTech got back to me. The part number is Fenner FA2751. Unless I wanted to buy $200 worth of idler pulleys, the soonest I can receive it is in 2 weeks from Motion Industries.

Hopefully this solves the issue!
 

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Discussion Starter #488
This weekend was light on Jeep projects.

I added trim for my tailgate to seal it up. I used 1129A992 on the sides and 93085K88 along the bottom from McMaster-Carr. Not only does this keep water out it also quieted down noise inside the Jeep.



I noticed a small coolant leak that started happening now that the engine is getting hotter with the warmer weather and repositioned the clamp to stop the leak:

 

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Discussion Starter #489
Yesterday UPS brought the new steering gear box. I swapped it in and I remembered to change the fitting I said I would months ago while I was already making a mess.

The new gear completely solves the issue I had where turning left required less effort than turning right. So I'll be sending the other gear to PSC for repair and will keep it on the shelf as a spare. Because my steering is smooth and feels consistent lock to lock now, and the tune on the shocks isn't throwing me around inside the Jeep anymore bumping me into the steering wheel, I set the toe back to straight (0*) and started fresh on the process of dialing in the steering to find the sweet spot which I discussed the theory and process of a couple of months ago. I'm finding that I need considerably less toe out than I did before.

 

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Discussion Starter #492
The alignment went well!

Right off the bat, the guy told me that my tape measure alignment was all within spec except that my tires are toed out but nothing that would cause tire wear. The thrust angle was off by less than 0.1*. And the caster on the right side was lower than the right by -0.2*. So that was good to know that I'm not horrible with a tape measure! Haha!

Thankfully he was alright with having me under the Jeep adjusting so we got the front and rear perfectly square to each other by extending the front and rear right side LCAs to adjust caster which corrected the thrust angle. They only needed 1/4 turn or so each. Not much. And then straightened the steering wheel again.

The machine did call for more 1-2* more caster on the right side (or was it the left? I don't remember...) to counter the crown of the road but that hasn't been a problem I've experienced so far I opted to stay within spec of the Savvy mid-arm and kept the caster the same on both sides.

Overall, the Jeep feels like it handles smoother through turns after the alignment. It's slight, probably not enough that anyone else not paying as much attention to it would notice. Accelerating still causes the "torque steer" to occur but after fixing all of these other little things over the last month it seems to be less, more linear, and more predictable. I'm heading to MI this evening to be able to legally test at high speeds if the steering wheel still centers differently at different RPMs. The road to the alignment shop has a speed limit of 55mph with a bunch of tight turns. I used that road to test on while dialing in my steering a month ago before fixing the steering gear and before tuning the shocks -- at that time I felt very uncomfortable driving 45mph on it and had to stay alert the entire time, the steering was VERY BAD at that time and I remember thinking to myself that I hated how it handled (I just about started crying to myself that day after spending years on this build for it to only drive like junk). On the way home today from the alignment I felt comfortable at 55mph and was able to relax and enjoy the drive.

So I think it's safe to say that all of these little things are adding up to be big handling improvements.

(My understanding is that the final -0.1* thrust angle is incorrect since the machine kept jumping between 0* and -0.1* any time the Jeep was lightly bumped.)


Very soon I'll be handing over the keys to my mom to take it for a drive. She's only driven 2 different brand new dealer maintained vehicles within the last 5 years so I think she'll be a solid unbiased test.
 

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Discussion Starter #493




Friday was a roller coaster!

I was able to join up with a couple of buddies in the UP, ate pastys, and did a shake down run on some logging trails. Nothing too intense at first, all stuff I've done when the Jeep was stock, just the usual stomping grounds with scenic views for a few hours and the LJ was more comfortable than ever. I even got my first scratch since the rebuild (does that mean I'm not a mall crawler anymore?)!

On the way to one of the guys house for dinner on the highway I was driving up a long hill and what I thought was the idler pulley was chirping like crazy until the entire Jeep started vibrating like going over a rumble strip and then a loud pop. Instead of lunch I inspected the Jeep front to back and couldn't find anything wrong so I drove a little bit and everything felt fine. Unable to find the issue I followed the group back out to the trail head figuring that if I can't find what to repair I'd find it by driving until it did become noticeable. Except the Jeep drove like nothing ever happened.

So I decided to go out for the night run on the trails. We ended up going down a new trail with lots of roots, deep snow in valleys, huge fallen trees up to the bumpers to climb over, and big holes that swallowed my 37s. I didn't build my Jeep for that terrain specifically where bigger tire size tends to be king but I was extremely impressed with it's ability to slide the belly across the trees, push the diffs through ruts, the sway bars kept traction to the tires, and the steering worked just as good in the thick of it as it did on the highway.

In addition to needing to figure out and solve whatever is causing the chirping vibrating popping I also think with the 37" tires and 5.38 gears in the axles the 2.72:1 ratio of the transfer case isn't enough. Preferably the axles would be geared a step or two deeper which is also something I've wished for on the highway, but since this is the deepest gear available I'm thinking about either a Rubicon transfer case swap or an Atlas to get 4:1.

Overall a successful shake down run!
 

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Discussion Starter #496

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Discussion Starter #497


The serpentine belt shredded tonight after 1300 miles. Occam's razor suggests that was the source of the issues. I had aligned it the best I possibly can using a laser and straight edge and have the most belt wrap possible and good tension on the belt. I also tried different belts. And I had no issues with the stock belt for 83k miles. There possibly is multiple issues going on. At this point I really don't know if the noise was coming from the belt, the transmission or something else but regardless if I'm going to have to replace the belt every 1k miles that's not going to work for me. If my engine is somehow out of whack causing the belt to have issues I don't feel like replacing the engine with another inline 6 to find out. I've already spent around $200 trying to solve the chirp. To avoid cost creep on something that may not be fixable, the most I'm willing to pay at this point is a few hundred more dollars to fix the issue so I can get a few fun reliable years out of it. I think it's time to swap the engine out with something designed for what I want out of it instead of pushing the inline 6 to it's limit.
 

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Play with the belt. Odds are, you're either out of alignment on something that's not OEM (aftermarket supercharger, AC pump, PS pump, or something) or, something has a bearing failing, and that pulley is wobbling. (edit; also count the grooves on EVERY pulley. wouldn't be the first time that 6 pulleys had 7 grooves, and the last pulley had 8 ((for example only)).

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and carry a spare belt. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #499
Play with the belt. Odds are, you're either out of alignment on something that's not OEM (aftermarket supercharger, AC pump, PS pump, or something) or, something has a bearing failing, and that pulley is wobbling. (edit; also count the grooves on EVERY pulley. wouldn't be the first time that 6 pulleys had 7 grooves, and the last pulley had 8 ((for example only)).

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and carry a spare belt. <a href="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title=":)" >:)</a>
Thanks for the ideas. Hopefully I can get this fixed and trust the 4.0l a while longer while I get everything together for a V8.
 

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Discussion Starter #500
Play with the belt. Odds are, you're either out of alignment on something that's not OEM (aftermarket supercharger, AC pump, PS pump, or something) or, something has a bearing failing, and that pulley is wobbling. (edit; also count the grooves on EVERY pulley. wouldn't be the first time that 6 pulleys had 7 grooves, and the last pulley had 8 ((for example only)).

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and carry a spare belt. <a href="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title=":)" >:)</a>
I verified that all of the pulleys do indeed have 6 grooves.
 
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