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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
I moved the engine over and marked where I need to notch for the AC compressor. I'll come back to that once I have the engine mounts in place and am 100% positive of the engine placement.

 

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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
The transmission crossmember really firmed up the rest of the driveline placement and it no longer moves when I bump it. So I moved the engine back to it's home and cycled the front axle to check again for clearance.

Everything cleared the 1-1/4" driveshaft except for a few tiny spots I won't know for sure until after my real driveshaft is in place:
  1. The corner of the Savvy mid-arm mount on the frame may barely kiss the driveshaft (easily fixable).
  2. The knobs that stick out the oil pan may get close to the larger splined section of the driveshaft (I'm going to cut those off anyway).
  3. Where the cable attaches to the 6L80e shift lever rubs under articulation when the transmission is in park, neutral, reverse and maybe a little bit in drive (didn't hit in tap shift position). This may prevent being able to shift while in extreme articulation situations. Although even in a nose over situation where I want to quickly shift from drive (or tap position) to reverse I can't imagine that the front end would be articulated like that. So I don't think this will ever be a problem aside from not being able to put it in park for poser shots.

This picture at full articulation shows how far under the oil pan the axle travels:

 

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Your progress looks great. That trans mount turned out really good. I think I missed it, but what A/C compressor did you end up running? How far off center are you landing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
Your progress looks great. That trans mount turned out really good. I think I missed it, but what A/C compressor did you end up running? How far off center are you landing?
In the pictures I have Holley's low profile AC brackets which use a Sanden SD7 compressor. DirtyDingo sells one that sits a little closer to the block that I'm checking out too.

The center of the harmonic balancer is 3/4" off center, the center of the rear yoke is 3/8" off center. I actually figured out a way to get the engine centered but it places the transmission shifter too close to the driveshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
To get more room on the passenger side I swapped the CTS-V manifold back to the one that came with the engine.

 

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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
I reconsidered about the shifter not being able to go into reverse while under full articulation. Once I get the driveshaft back from Tom Woods I'll figure out a solution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
I spent most of yesterday playing around with exhaust routing and thinking through things.

In the late afternoon I got started on the engine side motor mounts.









 

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I really like your motor mounts and the gussets on the sides. Its a great design. But I think they're a little thin. It looks to be 1/8? I'd go at least 3/16 or even 1/4. Even if you only added a weld washer to the bolt eyes to double the thickness of where the bolt is. I doubt that the ears will move, but there is a lot of pressure placed on thin metal. That'll keep those holes from ovaling out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
I really like your motor mounts and the gussets on the sides. Its a great design. But I think they're a little thin. It looks to be 1/8? I'd go at least 3/16 or even 1/4. Even if you only added a weld washer to the bolt eyes to double the thickness of where the bolt is. I doubt that the ears will move, but there is a lot of pressure placed on thin metal. That'll keep those holes from ovaling out.
They are 1/8". I will be using a (not weld) washer on each end however as long as the bolts are properly torqued they shouldn't move and oval. Regarding the rest of the strength, I think it will be fine as long as it doesn't get dented (and nothing really should be hitting those brackets).

The frame side mounts will be made from 3/16" plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·




The bolt sleeves provided by Autofab are a hair under 1/16" shorter than the weld sleeves that they have. They also aren't cut straight. I'll include a stick of DOM in a future metals order to correct this.

 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
Cardboard mockup for the left (driver's) frame side engine mount. It's 1.75" wide at the engine and flares out to 3" at the frame.















 

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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
Tom Woods received my front shaft and is able to shorten it to 36-3/8" and resend it back out again today.

I also ordered a new shaft for the rear in 1350 for 28-1/4". I had the option between 2" and 3" tube, they said either would likely work but the 3" will survive whatever I throw at it from the engine and includes a stronger spline section which is the main benefit from what I understood. I also upgraded to the thicker .180 wall which requires some machining on their part but will hold up better if it gets tapped.

When the time comes to order spares, I'll probably go with the smaller 2" shaft so it fits inside the Jeep better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
I found what may be the best $80 purchase ever. A part that actually fits!

This 6L80e dipstick tube came from blueracer1976 on eBay: 6L80E Transmission Dipstick & Tube to LS Engine Camaro 6L80 6L90E | eBay

The benefits of having the plastic handle vs a metal one like the Lokar has is that it won't be hot to the touch when checking it. For a little while I had been considering not having a dipstick since the transmission really shouldn't leak and I'd see if it was and could crawl under to add, but the transmission to Atlas adapter doesn't have a weep hole so it's possible that it could leak past the output shaft seals into that area and I'd never know until it's too late. This tube will also make fluid changes a breeze.





 

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Discussion Starter · #140 ·
I actually finished cutting all of the pieces for the left side engine mount a few days ago. Before final assembly I realized that I need to figure out how I'm tying my engine skid into the frame. On the right side I'll go directly to the frame (easy) and for the left side I figured out a route that I can make an S shaped brace fit between the engine and diff and then tie it into the engine mount and I'll add a second brace to prevent torsion on that engine mount. More materials are on order so hopefully I can knock that out real quick once they arrive. In the meantime I can continue in other ideas since the engine is firmly in it's final location with just the one engine mount plus the transmission mount.

Here's some in progress pics:









It looks like I can reuse the old steering mount:

 
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