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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
I dropped the pan and added in a trap door baffle from Improved Racing to help keep the oil near the pickup.

https://www.improvedracing.com/camaro-ss-g8-ss-caprice-ppv-racing-oil-pan-baffle-bundle.html

The stock LS pan does have a baffle of sorts already which looks like it would control oil much better than the Jeep's 4.0L, however the trap door baffle has been proven to have even better oil control when cornering on road tracks and offroad at extreme angles.

Stock GM baffle slopes toward the pick up:


Lobster traps built into the pan:


Improved Racing trap door baffle installed:


Because my oil pan is now baller I bejeweled it with stainless steel bolts from ARP (#434-6902).



 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
Unfortunately progress is going to be slower the next few months and I likely won't be able to get the exhaust done and test drive until mid-April instead of next month. Anyway, I just wanted to give you guys a heads up so you don't think I've forgotten to update ya'll.
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 ·
To preemptively make more room for the front driveshaft I cut the threaded knobs off the oil pan. I used a sawzall and then smoothed them out with a flap wheel made for aluminum.

 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
I finally got around to unboxing the driveshafts from Tom Woods.

The front 1310 1.25" shaft clears everything with room to spare! So much that I'm going to tape a 3/8" spacer onto the shaft, cycle it again, and see if I can get away with a 2" shaft. A 1350 2" shaft might be too big around the cardan joint so I'll probably stick with 1310 up front. Exhaust clearance might not work either...

Driveshaft to Savvy mid-arm bracket (I can always notch this):



To get some more wiggle room I'll shave the engine block:



Driveshaft to engine:



Driveshaft to trans shifter (I can bend the lever in a little closer to the pan too):



To increase clearance on the shifter end I replaced the ball and socket end that came with the the Winters shifter to a clevis from McMaster-Carr (McMaster-Carr).

 

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
I cycled again and a 2" 1310 shaft is going to fit with a few sheets of paper to spare. It is going to prevent true dual exhaust out the rear so I'll be forced to run the left exhaust pipe over the top of the trans into a y-pipe. I think I have a solid idea for making that work. More on that once I get to that step.

Because I can't leave well enough alone, I ordered a 2" 1350 shaft from Tom Woods with yokes and seal for the Atlas and front axle. I'll likely have to hammer the tub more for the wider CV and I am nervous about the driveshaft position changing slightly due to a different angle created by the longer CV and possibly different length yokes.

Tom Woods has an option for a .180" wall tube designed for racing but I passed it up since it adds another 1/8" to the width that I'm not sure I have to give.

To show a rough size comparison of what to expect, here's my old rear 2" 1310 shaft with the new rear 3" 1350 shaft next to it.

 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
Finished plating. It clears by 1/4". I'll finish welding when I have the engine out again.

 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
Since I'm sticking with the truck spacing, I swapped the harmonic balancer to a 2010 Camaro balancer (12675620) to match it up with my accessory drive spacing. It's the same diameter as the Corvette spacing balancer that came on the LS3, just sticks further out.

To remove the old balancer I used a OTC 6667 damper puller.





To install the new balancer I used an installer tool from Summit (SUM-900135). It has a thrust bearing which made the job almost a 1 handed install. Finished off with an ARP bolt (234-2503) lubed and torqued to 235ftlbs.



All in all, about a 15 minute job which was way faster than I was expecting.
 

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As always, great documentation. You're moving along nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
I cut correct length bushing sleeves for the motor mounts out of thicker 0.75" OD x 0.584" ID x .083" wall DOM tubing.

 

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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
@mrblaine did some testing and found that this motor mount design made from 1/8" steel shears at 2000lbs of pressure across the sleeve.

To error on the safe side I welded on washers to increase the thickness of the material.

 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
The new 2" 1350 driveshaft from Tom Woods arrived today. I also ordered new 1350 yokes from them for the Atlas and Dana 60. They source their Atlas yokes from Advance Adapters so compatibility is perfect since the late model Atlas requires a beveled edge on the yoke.

1.25" 1310 front shaft vs 2" 1350 front shaft:



The axle cycled out perfectly with enough room for my hand down the entire length except for next to the shift lever at full articulation. It's close but shifting works.



The 1350 CV also binds in the last 1" of droop. It only binds at 0* and 180* of the rotation and it seems to be due to this "stop" that's built into the casting. I'm going to call Tom Woods on Monday to see if it's safe to grind down on both sides. If it is, then it will allow enough angle.



 

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Discussion Starter · #157 ·
The alternator stud was pressing into the oil fill tube so I decided to remove the tube and just use the cap to get it out of the way.

I'm pretty sure the tube is there for when you use engine covers so can still be accessible. I don't plan to put a cover on my engine and I don't mind having to grab a funnel when doing oil changes. It might be a little less convenient when doing parking lot oil changes (which I can see doing on the Alaska trip I've been planning) but if there's oil available at a store they generally have a funnel for sale too. I could also see the tube allowing for easy access if your engine burns oil and needs to be topped off but this is a new engine and if it ever starts burning oil I'll get it rebuilt before I wish for an easier way to top it off.

There's 2 tabs that retain the fill tube but the cap only has 1 "thread". In case I ever lose the cap I decided it'd be better to grind off the extra tab on the cover so I can buy a new cap anywhere and it'd just work. I opted to grind the larger tap off.



To keep aluminum dust from entering the engine I removed the valve cover:



I had to remove some flashing from the hole and increase the bore slightly so the cap would fit:



Because this engine is going to be something I'll have long term, whenever I need to remove or install a part I have been upgrading the hardware. Necessary? No. But good hardware makes me happy.

I used ARP valve cover bolts (400-7530), coil bracket bolts (434-2302), and water pump bolts (434-3202). This also gets rid of the stud bolts that GM used on the coil brackets which I think are to retain an engine cover but look stupid without.

To keep the valve cover spacers I tapped the old bolts out:





Installed the grommets and spacers back into the covers:



Here's the accessory drive parts list:
  • GoatBuilt CBR mid Mount Pump Bracket (4415)
  • GoatBuilt GM LS Passenger Side Alternator/Tensioner Bracket (4405-10-LS3)
  • Mopar TJ tensioner pulley (4854089AB)
  • ACDelco 2010 Camaro water pump (251-734)
  • 2010 Camaro harmonic balancer (12675620) -- I previously posted about installing this.
  • Holley low LS drive AC (20-160)

I'm still working on finding a belt that fits.

GoatBuilt includes split lock washers and black oxide bolts with their brackets which I'm not a fan of either for this application so I ordered all new zinc coated hardware and am relying on proper torque to keep the bolts from coming loose instead of lock washers. As far as I can find across the internet, loctite or antiseize are not needed when threading into the aluminum engine (except for the stainless steel hardware). Every bolt I removed that was installed by the factory was also dry. So I installed the bolts dry.





 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
I talked to Shawn at Tom Woods regarding my 1350 binding. He said that with everything I have going on he wouldn't recommend swapping back to a 1310 joint unless there's no other choice. It sounds like their supplier recently added more material to that area of the joint which is causing the issue. He gave me a couple of options: 1) If I have a trip planned soon he can send me a picture with the area to grind out marked and they'd still warranty it. 2) I can send the driveshaft to them and they'd take it apart and grind it for me. Loss of strength is not a concern. 3) Since they're taking it apart again anyway, they can change it to a flange design at the transfer case which gives a better angle and retains all of the original strength. The downside to the flange is that it's 5.5" in diameter right next to the case.

I'm going to measure for the flange and see if it'll work. If not, I'll have them clearance the CV since they can balance it after. I insisted on paying for shipping and the additional labor since the problem is nobody's fault, but they refused to charge my card. Whenever I talk to them it always feels like they genuinely care about my project and they're wanting the best for my build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
It's settled. I'm swapping the front output on the Atlas to a drive flange and sending the front 1350 driveshaft back to Tom Woods to be modified. The flange should fit no problem, but since it'll move the CV forward slightly (effectively shortening the front shaft slightly) I might need to hammer the tub a little more.

I really think a 1310 would survive up front, and there's plenty of examples of similar builds with that being the case. 450hp seems to be roughly the tipping point where Tom Woods suggests going to a 1350 joint in the front. There's other factors too like tire size and differential gearing. I noticed this similar tipping point when I bought the 6L80e transmission and Atlas where they wanted to beef up components that I wouldn't have had to with less power. My argument to go with the stronger parts is that it's not negatively affecting my build and if things get rowdy on the trail the failure point is likely going to be from denting the tube and not from shock loading a joint.

I think it's awesome that I haven't had to compromise on the high travel I worked so hard to get in phase 1 of my build and instead am actually able to use a full 2" driveshaft instead of the 1.25" shaft I was previously stuck with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
I was asked about a few parts in PM so I figured I'd share here for everyone.

Something I always try to keep in mind is parts availability in remote areas and being able to service my Jeep if something breaks during a trip.

It was pointed out that I used 12pt ARP fasteners around my engine instead of 6pt. I don't plan to carry 12pt sockets aside from a single 1/2" 12pt socket for my steering so I can replace a heim if needed. My reasoning why this isn't a concern is that every part that is held on with a 12pt fastener is one that I either can't imagine ever servicing on a trail (like decoupling my transmission) or because I'd have to go to a parts store to order a replacement anyway so buying a 12pt socket at the same time from the parts store wouldn't add any time or hassle (such as replacing the water pump).

Parts that would likely be on a parts store shelf like a new alternator are held on with 6pt fasteners.

Speaking of the alternator, I forgot to mention it when I was talking about the accessory drive. It is a GM truck application alternator so I can replace it with any commonly available unit. This one is made by Mechman to deliver 197 amps when the engine is at 800rpm (my engine will idle around 500rpm so this number will be a bit lower) and 256 amps at 1800rpm. I opted for this higher than stock output because I'll be running electric fans and winching. Mechman tests each one before shipping.

 
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