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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, I have been reading through link after link trying to find good information about making your own shackles and how long to make them without going to long.

This is the deal:
85 Runner
Chevy Rears
Toy/YJ Hybrids up front (top 2 Toys leafs and bottom 3 YJ leafs)
2.5 drop up front
Running 35 15.5x10 but will be going to 37 or 38's in the next 6 months.

I will be cutting the rear wheel wells out which will give me an extra 3" in the back for tire clearence and I will be moving the front end up about 3" to 4" when redoing the front end.

Any help or pics would be helpful. Heard of some people going with 10" or longer shackles (eye hole to eye hole). I know if you do this up front you will really through off your caster angle unless using a serious amount of front drop or huge caster shims. Just looking for some helpful ideas to be able to clear 38's while getting the best possible flex out of these springs. Is body lift the only way?

Ok, flame away!
 

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'82 Scrambler, '14 Rzr
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There is no magic length.



However - assuming your springs can flex to a flat position, and you have already mounted the shackle hanger and front solid mount eye...

Theoretically you take the FLAT length of the spring, minus the distance from spring hanger to shackle hanger, and the resultant distance is how long your shackle *should* be.

Of course there are about 5000 other variables that could and should be accounted for... but this is a good starting point.
 

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just make a nice strong 7" shackle and make the rest up with a block. if blocks were "sooo bad" as many claim, how would they survive and work fine on pmurphs (EX) 4runner....i think he runs a 4" block....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wow, I set myself up for flamming and in turn got some great ideas with tech info and pics even. :eek: That thread you posted a little while ago Paul must have worked.

I think I will go with the 7" long shackles front and rear. A custom made front rear hanger that has some drop built into it and go with what ever size blocks I will need in the rear to finish it all off.

In the front I will go with the 2.5" drop up front, hang the 7" shackles from the stock location and shims if so needed for caster angle.

Just cut out room for my IFS box to move it as far possible as I can. Things are moving right along. Hope to be done for the Jambo!

Cheers :beer:
 

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if it was me i would do the 2.5" drop you mentioned and move the shackle mount under the frame with the stock shackles. just my .02

EDIT; this would minimize any shim adding.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
larryboy said:
if it was me i would do the 2.5" drop you mentioned and move the shackle mount under the frame with the stock shackles. just my .02

EDIT; this would minimize any shim adding.
So put the stock rear toy shackles up front and mount them under the frame. So the 2.5" drop plus mounting the front spring hangers under the 2.5" drop should yield me about 4 inches of drop up front, right? Then mounting the rear spring hangers under the frame also using the stock rear shackles should give me 2" lift over stock? Ok, tell me the tech behind this one. I am all ears???? :confused:
 

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not on a yota but you get the idea. i had a spare frame ,so i cut out the rear hanger and used the shackles on the front.
 

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May I sugest making a set of longer jackstands..............

I used 2" square and a bunch of 2"channel for the feet and 4"channel for the top, made some gussets with some flat stock...

That cant be sturdy?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I was waiting for that one. Yes, I need better jack stands. They have the big boys; I think 6tons, at Harbor Freight for $29 a set. I need to go buy 2 sets of them. Right now I have my 3ton Hyrdo Jack under my cross member (not shown in pic) for extra safety precaution!
 
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