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I need plans or dimensions for the DIES, not the bender itself.
They advertise the CLR - should be able to figure out the inner diameter of the die and spend hours on the lathe spinning it and cutting that groove into a block of steel.

I've got the Pro-Tools die and I live it very much
 

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Guys I didnt read all this thread so I hope Im not going to get flamed....

BUT, I cant fathom why anyone would build their own bender unless your getting free dies or shareing them with someone? Or only need one size die.

I use the ez bend 90 degree bender to build race car cages. I think Im nearing cage 100. It works well is vertical so it sits on my bench and I use a angle finder on the tube to measure the bend.

The total cost is 749.00 for the bender with 4 Dies. 1.0/1.25/1.5/1.75.

I got the foot operated air pump for an additional 149.00. Shipping to my door was 45.00 for a total of $943.00.


When I was looking at benders the other benders wanted 150-275 just for an additional die. Ez bend does make dies that will do 180 degrees but not for my bender. If I need a 180 which the only place I do is for drive shaft loops I weld two 90s together with a sleeve inside.

Here is easy bend with 4 dies.

http://www.commanderchassis.com/EZbend.html

Here is a great bender if you dont mind hand pump and only need one die. It is also vertical and can just sit on your floor. Its only 399.99 with one die.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/2nd-Generation-Speedway-Hydraulic-Round-Pipe-Bender,4883.html

Heres my website if you want to see some cages etc. www.jnjfab.com there are lots of pics in the gallery.
 

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Here is a great bender if you dont mind hand pump and only need one die. It is also vertical and can just sit on your floor. Its only 399.99 with one die.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/2nd-Generation-Speedway-Hydraulic-Round-Pipe-Bender,4883.html
QUOTE]
From their website:


I would want to bend at least .120 DOM
Then your good to go. .120 is less than .134.

DOM is mild steel. DOM is the process used to form the tube. Drawn over mandrel. Versus EW. Electric weld.

DOM has closer thickness standards.
 

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Then your good to go. .120 is less than .134.

DOM is mild steel. DOM is the process used to form the tube. Drawn over mandrel. Versus EW. Electric weld.

DOM has closer thickness standards.
I checked that bender out and it says pipe bender in the description but tube bender on another part of it. Just want to make sure it wont kink tube like other pipe benders do.:homer:
 

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I ordered a few smaller dies (.5" sq and 1" sq) from ProTools and these dies come with a smaller pin diameter to pull the die around. Its 3/4 versus 7/8. I'm guessing I need to turn some sleeves/adapters that are 3/4 ID and 7/8 OD that will slide in the arms when I want to use these dies. Has anybody else dealt with this?

Thx.
 

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I just purchased the gottrikes bender plans. I have to let the folks that are thinking about this project know what a pleasure it is to deal with Frank. He provides a Great product. The plans are very clear and highly detailed. His response time is extremely fast. I just thought that I should let others know when I think they have done a "very good job".
Thank You
Eric
 

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hey guys i got the plans and material and going to start making this bender but has anyone run into the problem of the harbour frieght hydraulic ram not having the mount on the bottom of the ram for the pin?? it is just flat and im thinking i have to make a saddle for it and wondering if anyone has this problem or if there is a better way?thanks
 

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HJ sells two kinds. You got the wrong kind. Take it back and swap it for the one with the pin holes on the bottom.
 

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so can you move the end of the ram up to the fourth hole and get more bend before repinning or is there interference? I am refering to the four sets of holes at the end where the ram attaches to the arms. It seems everyone just uses the last hole, what are the other three holes for.(pardon my ignorance) I notice NIB-98TJ did this but the plans only call for one hole. I am getting ready to build one and i am looking for any improvements you guys that built it would suggest. thanks
 

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Yes, I moved it up to get more travel per stroke. But there are a couple of trade-offs.

You loose "bending torque" the farther you move the ram up. I haven't noticed that to be a problem, but I haven't bent any 1.75" DOM yet.

With the larger dies/followers, if you move the ram up too far, the ram can contact the bottom of the follower at full stroke. On Franks new design, the ram body may also contact the 2x2 cross piece; the old design did not have that cross piece in the same position (I think).

NIB
 

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I checked that bender out and it says pipe bender in the description but tube bender on another part of it. Just want to make sure it wont kink tube like other pipe benders do.:homer:
It doesnt kink. Look at it its not a pipe bender.

www.jnjfab.com is my website I have built a few cages there are pics in gallery and diff pages.
 

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hey guys i got the plans and material and going to start making this bender but has anyone run into the problem of the harbour frieght hydraulic ram not having the mount on the bottom of the ram for the pin?? it is just flat and im thinking i have to make a saddle for it and wondering if anyone has this problem or if there is a better way?thanks
HJ sells two kinds. You got the wrong kind. Take it back and swap it for the one with the pin holes on the bottom.
NIB is correct Nutty, if you can't exchange the ram, you can make the tabs. Just cut a piece of plate and bolt it to the ram and weld tabs to the plate. That's what I did because I didn't follow the BOM and bought the wrong ram.
 

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NIB is correct Nutty, if you can't exchange the ram, you can make the tabs. Just cut a piece of plate and bolt it to the ram and weld tabs to the plate. That's what I did because I didn't follow the BOM and bought the wrong ram.
That might be a better idea than what I did because the pin holes on the HF ram were turned 90 degrees from what I needed and I had to make an adapter.

NIB
 
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