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Discussion Starter #21


Never posted the reverse light, I used a 1/2" drill to drill the factory welded nut off, then bolted the mount in place with the factory bed bolt and the nut that came with the light.



Got the enclosure on, it's definitely high quality stuff.



But, my stupid dealer didn't know that it was designed to work with the factory soft rear window and not the hard one. I was kinda pissed at first, but figured out a solution.





I just so happened to just get some 2" velcro. I cut the rough side in half and stuck it to the window, then used the soft side to connect them. Works well, but it does kinda look like gorilla tape :laughing: maybe eventually I'll sew some soft side on.





Another thing I'm not supper happy about is the windshield fitment. It has the almost perfect contour, except in some spots there Is about an 1/8" gap. I even slotted the holes in the cage that the windshield mounts to and shoved it down as far as I could. I ended up tucking the rubber back under to help, but it looks kinda shitty now.
 

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noise was a big concern for me.

my brother has a rhino with seats in it for kids, and a cab enclosure, that is deafening. i wont let my kids ride in it.

And this past summer, visiting family in Missouri, we rode in allot of utility type sxs's. all of them really loud. hard to say how much is engine and how much is drivetrain noise.

i've noticed that the sport models seem to be much less noisy. can am x3 and rzr i've been around the most, only heard the talons and textrons passing by but they seem like they may be the least noisy of the bunch.

i know when i find some time, i'm looking to wrap the exhaust, figure out some sort of intake silencer, and maybe sound deadener on the engine to cab bulkhead of my rzr. i also read a post on rzr forums that had a formula for adding 'expansion chamber' or boxes like you see on allot of new car intakes that in theory would eliminate allot of noise, supposedly they would work on both the intake and exhaust sides, but didn't see that anyone had actually done it. the chambers or whatever you would call them are also supposed to really help with drone.

i think its going to be hard to get it any of the machines much quieter being that they only really make power at such a high rpm. maybe the talon having an actual gear box can keep the rpms down.
 

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I did up a fuse block and relay, too. Yamaha provided a bunch of key on connections, for factory wiring harmesses. The fuse block was just less hassle. Plus, it's a quick change in the field if a fuse goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I did up a fuse block and relay, too. Yamaha provided a bunch of key on connections, for factory wiring harmesses. The fuse block was just less hassle. Plus, it's a quick change in the field if a fuse goes.
I was actually talking to my buddy with a wolverine and it sounds like they have a better set up. Hondas $55 sub harness piggy backs the cig lighter, for the relay trigger. Well so does the inferno heater, I didn't like the dual piggyback setup. So I just spliced into the heater piggyback harness for my relay trigger. Worked out.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
After a decent drive in snow, mud and puddles, the other day, the next priority is sealing some gaps up. There is a lot of holes in the firewall where the steering wheel and peddles go through. I picked up a roll of 6" wide 1/8" neoprene rubber to make some fill pieces. I also plan to cut some 2" wide strips to help cover the 1" gaps in the doors.

Another issue was water splashing up through the drain holes in the floor :laughing: i got some "work out pad" rubber from home depot to make floor mats out of. It's very grippy, reminds me of horse stall mats, but 1/4" thick.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Got the switch plate in and installed

XTC Power Products Center Console Switch Plate for Honda Talon 1000 SP-6SW-HT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TLHC3GS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eWLhEbKBF377J



After running cable from the rear for the winch and dual battery, I found that Honda had already done that. They even ended right by my battery isolator :homer:



The front winch has an in cab switch already and I was thinking about how I could have that same switch run front or rear with a selector switch.

I'd like to have the sector switch be a 3 way with off in the middle also. Right now the switch is live with the key, which I'm not to fond of, since I have young kids that like to switch switches and press buttons. I did a momentary switch for the seltor switch also. That way there is a little safety built in.

This is how I did the wiring for the selector:

In | out (front)
In | out (to switch)
In | out (rear)

Control switch:

In (from selector)
Power
Out (from selector)

I know I could just add another switch and it'd be the same thing, but like I said, I'd like to add the little safer feature in of having an all off position.



This will be front winch in



Rear winch in



I'm sure you can imagine how out works.

I also added a good old fashioned plug for the rear



I also worked on sealing some of the air gaps in the firewall with some foam in the cowel space. As well as added the rear vents and ducting for the heater.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Well I made the floor mats today. Pretty straight forward, took rough measurements, made cardboard mockups, trimmed to fit, then traced onto the rubber. I guess it was actually work out equipment mat.



Came out pretty good, the stuff was pretty easy to work with. I just used some heavy duty scissors. The backs looked easy at first, but they were more parallelogram than square.

 

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looks awesome man! thanks for the shout out and business!

regarding in cab noise - I can't stand how SxS's sound and how loud they are. I bought the Rugged Radios noise canceling headsets. They are one of my top 3 purchases, by far! Listen to music, talk to your passengers/other wheelin buddies and no annoying SxS noise.

Some guys complain they like to "hear the motor" and "know if somethings breaking" fawk that! drive it like you stole it and let the problem develop! :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
So for those not in norcal area, we have basically been in full spring since mid January. There is still snow up high, but it's rock hard and the tires are much more fun. We finally got a bit last weekend and are supposed to get a decent storm this weekend.

So I figured I'd beef up the anti rotation mounts that bent the first trip out :homer:

They were single shear and just a weak design. These are the rear.





Made them double shear and added gussets on both sides.







I also added more preload to the mount, putting more pressure on the backs of the tracks. I'm hoping this will help the front of the rear tracks climb. The other benefit is I'll have less threads sticking out on the hiem, which also bent.

I finished 1 front also, I'll add pics of it and more of the rears on the machine.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Stock front mounts





Beef'd mounts, I made the rear gusset large to try to protect the steering stop pivot.







I'm really not a fan of the way these clamp the a arm, it doesn't really lock in that great and you just have to kinda self align it where you think is best. Also, the 2 plate don't really sit parallel and 1 of the bolts already bent and I could tell it was moving around, again after 1 trip.

If it gives me problems I may just weld a plate to the a arm and then bolt the lower plate to that with more than 2 bolts.
 

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Jesus, that's a pretty hack setup for parts that cost so much money.

Your modifications to those brackets look 1000% better that what they sent you. Hopefully that's the last time you have to mess with those.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Jesus, that's a pretty hack setup for parts that cost so much money.

Your modifications to those brackets look 1000% better that what they sent you. Hopefully that's the last time you have to mess with those.
Ya, it's pretty sad. I mean they are HALF the price of mattracks. But It's not like a few extra pieces of steel and an extra 15 mins of welding would make a huge difference.

The weak point now will be the hiems. The one that was attached to the bent bracket was also bent. Not sure why they think 3" of exposed threads on a tiny hiem is a good idea. But oh well, nothing I can't fix.
 

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Just a heads up....... I keep seeing more and more center driveshafts with missing caps and torn up yolks due to the caps falling out. In my opinion the joints twist in the yolk, spit out the clip, then the cap falls out. Same as what happens on some of our front axle shaft joints. Put a tack weld on all 8 caps. I'll be doing mine very soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Just a heads up....... I keep seeing more and more center driveshafts with missing caps and torn up yolks due to the caps falling out. In my opinion the joints twist in the yolk, spit out the clip, then the cap falls out. Same as what happens on some of our front axle shaft joints. Put a tack weld on all 8 caps. I'll be doing mine very soon.
That's a new one. I pretty much can't handle those sxs forums anymore, especially the honda sxs club, jusus H.

So I feel like everything with these machines is a choice between: leave it alone so I don't void warranty or fix it right so I hopefully don't have to fuck with a warranty.

I wouldn't be surprised that the driveshafts would have issues, all the gearing is in the transmission, the r&p is like 3.10
 

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Discussion Starter #38
3.38 :flipoff2:
It's actually 3.30 and the pioneer is 3.38 :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

The pioneer diffs look almost identical except they have selectable lockers f&r. I'd really like to swap some in mine. Locked front open rear works well on side hills in snow.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:................ :flipoff2:







I don't even see where you saw that, but I'll take your work for it. It would make sense that they wouldn't change it from the pioneer. Which is good news, because maybe that means I can swap just the front diff in to get rid of the :rainbow: I4wd.
 
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