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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know that some of you AZ guys are wheeling with 38" SXs and I was just wondering how the axles are holding up to them. That goes for Sean too with his D44 axles. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> I would like to run some big meats and they aren't any heavier than 37" SSRs (82 lbs), but I am worried about breakage.

I am planning (still a web wheeler <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0"> ) on running the All-Pro D44/Toy hybrid front axle with CroMo shafts and would consider getting CroMo shafts for the rear (although I would probably wait until one broke first). I am going to run 5.29s though and I am worried about the pinion being the weak link. So basically I am looking for a progress report... and are you guys driving to the Hammers on those SXs? (Jay? Jack?)

Last time I talked to Brian Ellinger he told me that he was running 39.5 TSLs on stock Toyota axles! <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">
 

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depending on how hard you wheel, the 44 will hold up pretty well with the cromo shafts.

just carry spare joints. your weakness will be the joint and not the shaft
 

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Originally posted by Dirty Harry:
<STRONG>Last time I talked to Brian Ellinger he told me that he was running 39.5 TSLs on stock Toyota axles! <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
It only took me 2 years to talk him into it. I am running the same set-up on mine and let me tell you, they work nice. <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">
 

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I got some 39.5's also. Have not been able to drive the truck, due to no engine/tranny/tcase... But the 350 is on its way. I dont have many rocks around me, and im leaving the front open for a bit. So we will see. I tend to be a bit hard on the peddel when i get into mud =) Lets see if i can hit 3rd! hehe. I highly doubt it.

Nick
 

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IM RUNNING THEM WITH STOCK BRIF. LAST FOUR TRIPS WENT GOOD NO BREAKS YET. IM SURE THEY ONE WILL BREAK SOON . <IMG width=540 height=445 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/john20jpg.jpg">
 

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I've been through most of the hard trails in AZ like Axle Alley, Anaconda, Armegeddon, and Crown King <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> I haven't broken a birfield yet. I think it's because my driving style is so pimp, though. <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
IMO the keys to keeping the birfs somewhat happy are low gearing off the bat to keep off the go pedal, steering stops cranked all the way out, and sensible driving. Am I going to break one, yes eventually. I keep a set of long and short axleshafts with me. It only takes an hour or so to change one. Sometimes they just break, that's the cost of 4wheeling. I've seen situations where other people should have broken axles and they didn't. Also seen instances when an axle shouldn't have broken but it did.
38" SX's mounted on rockcralwers weigh far more than 80 some pounds, it's more like 110.
 

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Originally posted by Dirty Harry:
<STRONG>
I am planning (still a web wheeler <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0"> ) on running the All-Pro D44/Toy hybrid front axle with CroMo shafts and would consider ...</STRONG>
if you're still in the planning stages. why don't you just 'plan' on using a D44, it'd save you what $1000 or more just on the axle and if you did the D44 right you could use standard spare axles, not custom length ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all of the responses guys, I guess that I did not realize that there were so many people out there running big meats. How many of you guys still drive to the trails and extended distances on these tires (SXs)? Supposedly the ride better on the road than normal TSLs because they are bias belted instead of just bias ply. Unfortunately no one in my local club runs them so I haven't be able to go on a "test drive". <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by camo:
<STRONG>just carry spare joints. your weakness will be the joint and not the shaft</STRONG>
That would be fine. U-joints are cheap and relatively easy to change if the shafts aren't hosed. I am just worried that the pinion will break with 5.29s. Maybe that is more of a problem with the D60 hybrid than the D44 hybrid though.

Originally posted by pmurf1:
<STRONG> 38" SX's mounted on rockcralwers weigh far more than 80 some pounds, it's more like 110.</STRONG>
I was quoting unmounted weights. The tire itself weighs 82 lbs. Steel wheels are right around 35 so your 110 sounds like it is in the ballpark. I hope my scrawny ass never has to change out one of those on the trail! <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by morpheus:
<STRONG>if you're still in the planning stages. why don't you just 'plan' on using a D44, it'd save you what $1000 or more just on the axle and if you did the D44 right you could use standard spare axles, not custom length ones.</STRONG>
I was wondering how long it would take before someone asked this one! I have several reasons for my decision, some of which might not matter to others. For one, I want a high pinion diff in the front. Since the high pinion D44s only came in Fords with a driver's side drop I would have to get a custom housing. Plus, I want to run an electric locker in the front. And the Toyota housing has more ground clearance. I like the strength and ease of maintenance of open knuckles though, plus the increased turning radius. The way I see it the hybrid has all of the strengths of both axles and I am willing to pay the price to get one. Also I have already started ammassing parts (R&P and others...).

Keep the input coming.
 

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no the pinion should not be your weak link. the joints will. the main reason you want the cromo axles is that when a joint fails the yoke ears rarley fails oposed to stock dana axle yokes that almost always get wiped out when the joint fails.

btw. lance runs 39 boggers on his hp44 with warn shafts and hammers the crap out of it with a 350. he does break joints but the cromo shafts hold up great.
 

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I just put a set of 38 1/2 x 14.50 SX's on my Runner. I ran in Clayton all weekend with some friends who are still running 35 Boggs. The trucks sporting the 35's were breaking axles and shearing off hub bolts etc. on the same trails I was running, and I didn't break an axle.

We have been running home welded stock Birf's, or (Paulfields) as they have been dubbed for a few years now. They are not even close to unbreakable, however they are noticibly stronger.

<IMGwidth=540height=426SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/paulfield-2.jpg">

I am very happy so far with these tires. And yes, they run really nice on the road too. Not balanced or anything. I am comparing them to my old tires though. 33 TSL's. OMG they sucked on the road.
<IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

[ 09-28-2001: Message edited by: TROYOTA ]
 

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You had a couple spaces in the image.. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Okay, last time I will edit this. Troyota, anything moreon those paulfields? I may do this to a set to test it out as well. Thanks
[ 09-28-2001: Message edited by: LCKD4RNR ]

[ 09-28-2001: Message edited by: LCKD4RNR ]

[ 09-28-2001: Message edited by: LCKD4RNR ]
 

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Hey Troy, what do your 38's actually measure?

Does your welding modification effect the Birfield other than making it somewhat stronger? You're using a little Mig to do it, aren't ya... <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

[ 09-28-2001: Message edited by: 0ILBURNER ]
 

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Originally posted by 0ILBURNER:
<STRONG>Hey Troy, what do your 38's actually measure?

Does your welding modification effect the Birfield other than making it somewhat stronger? You're using a little Mig to do it, aren't ya... <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

[ 09-28-2001: Message edited by: 0ILBURNER ]</STRONG>
Thanks for getting that img up for me lckd4rnr.

First, the 38 1/2" tires measure 38" tall with 30lbs of air on a 10" rim.

As for the Paulfields. Yes its a mig welder, but not a little 110. And not using that shielded wire either, I am spoiled with the gas. The only thing you need to be careful of is getting the weld built up too much so that it limits the movement of the joint. The other thing is to get it to fit into the housing when your done. Just make sure it the weld doesn't pooch out passed the flat spots on the outer shell.

I say, just weld the piss outa it, then grind where you need to.

<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 
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