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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm attempting to shorten a driveline for the first time. I got a little carried away with the grinder. Should I:
A. Scrap it
B. Fill with weld and grind smooth
C. Leave it and weld it up.

I'm thinkin' it should be ok, but I figured I should ask

<IMG width=640 height=480 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/screwup.jpg">

[ 09-20-2001: Message edited by: Nobody ]
 

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Nope! Assuming your are just doing it for a trail d-line cause balancing that is not going to work. Press the new one on and give it the o'l WELD GUSSET!!!!! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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I would weld in and keep for spare. Then i would find another one to use thats alittle better. ... my $.02
 

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Originally posted by drnut:
<STRONG>I would weld in and keep for spare. Then i would find another one to use thats alittle better. ... my $.02</STRONG>
<FONT COLOR="Red"> Yeah, don't throw that sucker out... trail spare!! And, you'll get what appears to be some much needed practic for your next attempt <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> </FONT c>
 

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Front or Rear


Front = Wheel the Hell Out of it!!!!!!!!
<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Rear = Better Spend A little Cash !!!Or

I build My Own front And rear No Body to Blame Except Myself ,,,Use Laith If Possible

Adam,
 

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just try and center it the best you can. eyeball it again and again and then put the weld that held on it! it'll be good for the front, good for a spare and might just be good enough to run up and down the road. i have built d/shafts with ends ground just like that and have been just fine with minimal vibration at speed. then again i run unbalaced swampers so how could you tell anyway?
 

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I would weld it up and run it. I had an older Dodge that I shortened the drive shaft for about two years ago. The guy i sold it to liked to rev up the engine and drop the clutch. he never broke the shaft but did finally blow the engine so if you do a good weld if should be fine. by the way I have done the drive shafts in my 86 W150(replaced CV joint) and my 93 W250 ( CV joint and rear driveshafts rear yoke)also and have had no problems with them either. the most important thing is to get the u-joints lined up and get an even weld all the way around
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Glad to hear it's not hopeless. I know to be more careful next time. It is going to be a front which is why I decided to try to do it myself. Besides it just has to last until I Get Shafted! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Originally posted by fatDRM:
<STRONG>fill that Biatch, it's only a front.</STRONG>
You think I should try and fill it in some before I put it together? I'm not concerned about vibration, but I dont' want it to grenade the first time out either. If you think I'm better off finding a new slip yolk, then I can probably make that happen. The other end is a CV, which I actually care about.
 

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it will be just fine like it is! but here is a heads up. some drive lines have a plastic coating on the spline so don't get it too hot. weld it then put it in water right away. not all the way to the weld ofcourse. I learned this the hard way.
and of course it's not plastic neopren or some crap

[ 09-21-2001: Message edited by: JIM3030 ]
 
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