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On My GN, I have an 8K winch. I don't need a bigger one, since with a snatchblock, it will pull more than the trailer will haul and during a stright line pull, it is more than enough for my 6500 lb rig.

Mine is mounted on the uprights right where the vertical meets the horizontal neck. My spare also rides on the neck. I did this to lessen the chance of the cable cutting into the deck at the dovetail.

I also have an old bed box toolbox mounted on the front of my trailer on the deck, which houses all the wiring and 2 big batteries for the winch. I also added 2 spot lights (1 on each upright) that do double duty as backup lights and as lighting for loading the trailer OR for working beside the trailer (they are moveable for this purpose). The toolbox also has switches for these lights in it so I can turn them on independently, and they are also wired to come on with the b/u lights.

I have a remote control for mine, as it is hard to be in a vehicle steering 25+ feet away from the winch when the hand cable is only 15 ft long. I do keep the hand cable in the toolbox just in case, and it did save the day once when the remote's battery died.



I got my winch at Northern, and it is a ramsey 8k, which while being slow, has worked great so far, with it doing everything from having to winch a dead cherokee from 100 ft away up on to the trailer, to winching a dead 3500 ctd dually up on to the trailer in the snow.

For the money I spent, it was a deal. I no longer have to worry about how to get a dead vehicle up on a deckover 25 ft GN by myself.

The only real drawback to mounting it this way, is when you are winching, you can't fully open the toolbox lid until the load is on the trailer.


here's a pic of what I am talking about

 

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Is that trailer a transformer? Two in one?

You mean this one?





Its an 8K Tabor (by Warn) that I scavenged off my CJ-5 after I built the new bumper.
Works really well!

Camarogenius, I wouldn't go any smaller than a 6K winch for your uses. I've burned up 8 of the cheepies hauling scrap on this trailer, and now I won't go back! The no power out is dangerous (the way I use it) to unload rigs, and (again for my uses) isn't nearly enough to move some of the stuff I haul.
If you have a deck-over trailer, get a 8 or 9K just to get rigs up onto the deck. More is better, cause having to help your winch load a truck with a come-a-long SUCKS! BTDT!

As for a pulley system? I wouldn't. The resulting drag off the pulleys will weaken the whole set-up. Mount it to the tongue for a straight-line pull. By far the strongest way to do it. IF you are mounting to a gooseneck type, mount it low (deck-height), but mount a snatch block to the upper deck for high pulls. Thats the ONLY pulley I'd use.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
So there is no room in front of the chain and binder storage to put a winch, even 'hanging' between the goose and the tailgate? With the cable sticking in between the chains?
How about a pic of the trailer's goose?
Just got in from D.C., and am rolling out for champaign, IL. before daylight. I'll snap some pics tomorrow afternoon.

On My GN, I have an 8K winch. I don't need a bigger one, since with a snatchblock, it will pull more than the trailer will haul and during a stright line pull, it is more than enough for my 6500 lb rig.

Mine is mounted on the uprights right where the vertical meets the horizontal neck. My spare also rides on the neck. I did this to lessen the chance of the cable cutting into the deck at the dovetail.

I also have an old bed box toolbox mounted on the front of my trailer on the deck, which houses all the wiring and 2 big batteries for the winch. I also added 2 spot lights (1 on each upright) that do double duty as backup lights and as lighting for loading the trailer OR for working beside the trailer (they are moveable for this purpose). The toolbox also has switches for these lights in it so I can turn them on independently, and they are also wired to come on with the b/u lights.

I have a remote control for mine, as it is hard to be in a vehicle steering 25+ feet away from the winch when the hand cable is only 15 ft long. I do keep the hand cable in the toolbox just in case, and it did save the day once when the remote's battery died.



I got my winch at Northern, and it is a ramsey 8k, which while being slow, has worked great so far, with it doing everything from having to winch a dead cherokee from 100 ft away up on to the trailer, to winching a dead 3500 ctd dually up on to the trailer in the snow.

For the money I spent, it was a deal. I no longer have to worry about how to get a dead vehicle up on a deckover 25 ft GN by myself.

The only real drawback to mounting it this way, is when you are winching, you can't fully open the toolbox lid until the load is on the trailer.


here's a pic of what I am talking about

I've thought about mounting one up high like that, but where yours is, I have my chain rack. Also like the tool box for the batteries, but mine would have to go below the deck, as customers often use every inch of my available deck, and that tool box wouldn't be long for this world, after getting beaten up every day by forklift operators, and crane operators.
 

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I plan on ,oving the spare to under the deck, and putting a storage box up on the neck, behind the winch, but for now, the box works, and it was free.

My trailer is too long for my rig, but too short to put two rigs on, so I have plenty of room even with the box.

The main thing I don't like about putting the winch under the deck, is it will require pulleys to keep from wearing into the decking or damaging the cable.

I also wanted the winch up high so I didn't loose any deck space, or have to split the toolbox for the cable.

Can you lower your chain rack a few inches so you can get the winch up there ? Mine was easy to mount, as all I did was lay the mounting plate on the round pipe and c-channel that was already there. The angle was dang near perfect.
 

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For you, which would rely on this winch as a tool much like a chain or binder, I'd get the biggest winch you could afford. So, if you bought say even something as big as a 12,000 pound winch, you'd probably make 100's of 3000lb pulls and not even tax the winch, then a few years down the road pull on old john deere onto the deck without skipping a beat. Try and predict your biggest reasonable load and buy a bit bigger. I think winches used for revenue should be sized bigger than a winch used for hobbies; Sorta like a chainsaw.

I would mount extra batteries in the tongue for current draw (Plus you could boost your truck when you kill it/when a battery or two goes sideways) If you used it enough, you could mount a dedicated charge line for the batteries, straight from your trucks charging system.

Mount it in front of the deck in front of where the jacks sit, in between the uprights for the gooseneck, but mount it vertical, pointing upwards to to the top of the neck. That way, you can snatch it off the top of the trailer, which makes dragging loads UP the beavertail easier on the trailer and the winch cable. You could even put it on a receiver type setup which you could adapt for the front of your truck, should you get stuck, like say in a fucked up parking lot at gas station after a rainstorm.

All you'd need is 100' of cable, and if you needed you could use your load chain as an extension. That should net you at least 150', probably 200 on a bad day.

That's what I'd do!
Chad.
 

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Is that trailer a transformer? Two in one?
HA! I was waiting for someone to notice that!
I installed the new tongue, but haven't got around to moving the VIN number stickered on the hitch of the old tongue, to the new hitch yet. After that, I will cut the old hitch off.
 

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Let's do the math on this. The simple math because when you consider this idea the way I'm going to present it you may have an "oh yeah huh" moment.
I get a real kick when people say you need a 9K to 12K winch to pull a 5K vehicle onto a trailer. First off, those winches are D rated meaning there's some fudge factor build in to the ratings. I would guess 20%.
So, can a 5000 lbs winch pull a 2002 Tahoe up a trailer? At a max weight of 5050 lbs that 5K winch can pull that Tahoe up the side of a building. People are worried about pulling a car up a 20 degree trailer ramp all of 5 feet long when it can pull a Tahoe 90 degrees straight up the side of a building. It's rated to pick their whole vehicle off the ground.
So, Unless you load your trailer by lifting the vehicle 3 feet off the ground then driving your trailer under it, I wouldn't be worrying about having a smaller winch.
 

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I bet he is the type of guy who mounts a HF ATV winch to a push bar bolted to the bumper of his 2wd truck and thinks he is now capable of running the baja 1000.

:homer:
I bet that guy is a lot more fun to hang around than the guy who spends Saturday afternoon joining websites to be a douche on:laughing:
 

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Let's do the math on this. The simple math because when you consider this idea the way I'm going to present it you may have an "oh yeah huh" moment.
I get a real kick when people say you need a 9K to 12K winch to pull a 5K vehicle onto a trailer. First off, those winches are D rated meaning there's some fudge factor build in to the ratings. I would guess 20%.
So, can a 5000 lbs winch pull a 2002 Tahoe up a trailer? At a max weight of 5050 lbs that 5K winch can pull that Tahoe up the side of a building. People are worried about pulling a car up a 20 degree trailer ramp all of 5 feet long when it can pull a Tahoe 90 degrees straight up the side of a building. It's rated to pick their whole vehicle off the ground.
So, Unless you load your trailer by lifting the vehicle 3 feet off the ground then driving your trailer under it, I wouldn't be worrying about having a smaller winch.
Pretty sure the math was done some 12 years ago..
 
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