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Discussion Starter #1
Get some ribs in a flat sheet of sheetmetal without a roller?

The heat shield above the big muffler on the Disco is missing, and as long as I have the exhaust off I figger I should stick a piece of mtal in there for some heat shielding.

Oh, its waaaaaay easier to r/r the transfer case with at least the front exhaust off :)

Revor (KAK) - thanks for the advice on the locating dowel!
 

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It was miss on my RR. I made a heat sheild that looks like this \_________/ and ran length it of the muffler It mounted to the top of the muffler where the old heat sheld was You could bend it with cresent wrench, or a hammer a 2x4's.

-Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, I was thinking that "ideally" I'd put some ridges in it going the long way just to stiffen it up a little.

Probably just as well to turn up / down the edges between some clamps.
 

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Lay the plate on a wood 2X4 and place a 1/4" round piece of steel on top. Hammer the 1/4" round into the metal to make a nice bead. This assumes your using thin sheet metal.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sheesh, I had just thought about KC's cave man method at lunch and now PT wants me to go buy more tools! :)
 

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Keith Armstrong said:
Sheesh, I had just thought about KC's cave man method at lunch and now PT wants me to go buy more tools! :)
The 2X4 method works OK. I am betting he has a 2X4 on hand somewhere. Or you could wait two weeks for the HF stuff to show up, spend 3 hours assembling it due to engrish instructions, and then break it on the first try because it's from Yongkang Beshan Industrial Copy of a Russian Copy of an American Tool and Die Co. Ltd.

You're an engineer, right? :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I kinda like the cave man method, 2x4 under the sheetmetal, whack the heck outta it with the 2 pound sledge, viola! ribs :)

KAA
 

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Keith Armstrong said:
Sheesh, I had just thought about KC's cave man method at lunch and now PT wants me to go buy more tools! :)
Like you need an excuse to go buy another tool :flipoff2:

I'm pleased with my HF bead roller, it works great when patching rust holes in Range Rover floors!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Handbuilt - PT's the engineer, I'm the simple-unfrozen'caveman-accountant :)

PT - Ok, who let you in on the secret...
....."My name is Bubba, and I'm a toolaholic."
 

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Place the sheet matel on a peice of rubber mud flap, ontop of a peice of plywood. Cut the metal larger then needed and screw it down to the wood, through the rubber.

Mount a bare steel rim onto the Rover. Lower vehicle down onto metal where you want bead, drive forward.

Depending on how wide a piece of metal you are using you can either have a pair of equally spaced beads, or one bead x inches in from the edge. X= rim with -1" roughly.

I know that some folks will read this and think I am nuts, but it really will work.

Pete
 

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Keith Armstrong said:
PT - Ok, who let you in on the secret...
....."My name is Bubba, and I'm a toolaholic."
Aren't we all?

For some, being an engineer is an educational achievement. For others, it is a curse of personality.
 

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aloharover said:
Place the sheet matel on a peice of rubber mud flap, ontop of a peice of plywood. Cut the metal larger then needed and screw it down to the wood, through the rubber.

Mount a bare steel rim onto the Rover. Lower vehicle down onto metal where you want bead, drive forward.

Depending on how wide a piece of metal you are using you can either have a pair of equally spaced beads, or one bead x inches in from the edge. X= rim with -1" roughly.

I know that some folks will read this and think I am nuts, but it really will work.

Pete
And KC says I'M a hack :flipoff2:
 
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