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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
yeah, yeah I frickin searched :flipoff2:

So I'm contemplating dropping an 8" under my Jeep, and I like the idea of getting 2 stock 3rds, one welded, one open. How long does it take to swap thirds? I would probably want to do it about 4 or 5 times a year. Seems with pulling shafts, driveshaft, and maybe 10 bolts on the diff, it could be done in 1/2 hour with a little practice. Well? At least I'll always have fresh gear oil :D




And hey, while I got you guys here, any idea what the brake line size is on the 8"? I hear it's metric, any idea on how to go about converting it to SAE.
 

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BrettM said:
yeah, yeah I frickin searched :flipoff2:

So I'm contemplating dropping an 8" under my Jeep, and I like the idea of getting 2 stock 3rds, one welded, one open. How long does it take to swap thirds? I would probably want to do it about 4 or 5 times a year. Seems with pulling shafts, driveshaft, and maybe 10 bolts on the diff, it could be done in 1/2 hour with a little practice. Well? At least I'll always have fresh gear oil :D




And hey, while I got you guys here, any idea what the brake line size is on the 8"? I hear it's metric, any idea on how to go about converting it to SAE.

3/16 ends and a double flaring tool to convert the brake lines... use to take me about 1/2 hour for the rear and maybe 45 mins for the front.... no more toy axles for me now:p
 

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just put the welded one in there and leave it there. carry the spare in your hEEp for when the welded carrier goes BANG!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ben Holloway said:
half hour is reasonable, have fun with that:rolleyes:

Ben
What's the ":rolleyes:" all about? do I sense some Jeep hostilitly? Hey, some people (morons) mistake my truck for a Toyota, so I'll confuse them more by putting an 8" in the rear :p


 

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i think you will have differnt bolt patters so might as well swap in a toyota front with longs:D and e lockers:p
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No need for one up front, though it sounds like you guys have things pretty good now with the Longfields. I'll stick to my 297x u-joints :flipoff2: I don't need another thing to learn at this point.

I already have bolt pattern, width, ebrake, and driveshaft figured out. I just need to find out some more about the brakelines. I've been doing tons of reading here and at some other Yota sites trying to learn as much as I can about the 8". I'll definetly be shaving it, gotta love that steel housing:D and 4.88s and an e-locker are definetly in the future.


BTW, if anyone has a 86-95 8" housing, brakes and shafts (no 3rd) they want to sell cheap in NorCal, let me know


thanks to the friendly guys and :flipoff2: to the Jeep haters
 

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I swaped the rear in about 20 min. very simple. I think the slowest part is filling er up with oil.

any body know quick tricks other than a hand pump?
 

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ToyBoomer said:
I swaped the rear in about 20 min. very simple. I think the slowest part is filling er up with oil.

any body know quick tricks other than a hand pump?
use the 1L bottle of diff fluid and cut a large holt in the funnel top that it comes with. about 1/2" -3/4" size hole. and squeeze till its gone and refil till the rear end it topped up.:confused:
 

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I swaped the rear in about 20 min. very simple. I think the slowest part is filling er up with oil.
I use an old Supersoaker water gun. Fill it up twice and it fits perfectly. Only 6 bux at wally world. Minimal to no leakage. :)
 

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you might look into a rear end filler from a circle track shop, its aluminu unit and it can also serve as your vent. This can, holds enough fluid for the axle, so you just dump in a set ammount, cap it, and walk away, and it drains down on its own.... Mainly used for doing "quick change" gears, which is kinda what your doing.... good luck -yag



from http://www.daymotorsports.com
 

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I'd guess around 45 minutes. But I never tried using a super soaker. Longest part for me is cleaning up sealing surface, bleeding brakes, refilling diff, all the little things. You could probably get it down to 1/2 hours with practice, but that doesn't leave much time for beer breaks
 

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I keep thinking about drilling a large hole and tapping it for a new fill hole on top of the diff....just pour in 2 quarts and be done w/it...
 

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Are we talking the rear or the front? Those of you saying 20 minutes is that just to change the third or is that from the time the tires leave the ground.

I would love to watch someone change a third in 20 minutes from tires leaving the ground to finished with brakes working.

And the front the best I have ever seen a Birfield changed was 25 minutes and that was from tool box hits the ground to back wheeling but that was with 2 people going at it like maniacs.
 

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if you put disks on the rear it will make it WAY easier. Flex lines to the caliper. Pull it out of the way and pull the axles.

No brake bleeding required! :beer:
 

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BrettM said:


What's the ":rolleyes:" all about? do I sense some Jeep hostilitly? Hey, some people (morons) mistake my truck for a Toyota, so I'll confuse them more by putting an 8" in the rear :p


:rolleyes: this is no hostility, just wonder why you would want to do that, just leave the welded one back there

Ben
 

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The Joker said:
Are we talking the rear or the front? Those of you saying 20 minutes is that just to change the third or is that from the time the tires leave the ground.

I would love to watch someone change a third in 20 minutes from tires leaving the ground to finished with brakes working.

And the front the best I have ever seen a Birfield changed was 25 minutes and that was from tool box hits the ground to back wheeling but that was with 2 people going at it like maniacs.
i dont pull off the break lines. not unlees i want to pull the whole shaft off

Ben
 

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You can get by without breaking the brake lines, but it's a bitch, I put a set of M-F soft lines off the front of a Mazda 2WD junkyard truck between the hardlines and the backing plate, I have about 6 inches of travel in the axles now, plenty of room to get them WAY out of the way. I was having problems with the hardlines breaking from all of the bending/unbending before...

Another trick is to figure out exactly how high you have to lift the axlehousing for you to get the axles pulled away. I leave the tires on, and when it's lifted *just right*, they slide away (on the dirt) without potential for beating up the oil seals. If you get the axlehousing too high, it's a bear getting the axle/brakes/tire manipulated enough to get the splines back into the 3rd member.
 
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