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Discussion Starter #1
I'm getting ready to JUNK the Redline knuckles, and replace them. How many different Ball joint D60 knuckles are there to choose from, and what are the differences? Like scrub radius (the distance from the center of the axle u-joint to the wheel mounting surface). This greatly effects the amount of force required to turn the wheels. I will also need to make these fit a 5 on 5.5 15" rim, so the caliper brackets will be custom.

1. New Ford ball joint with 4 bolt spindle/unitized bearing. Bigger Metric wheel pattern won't interfer with 5 on 5.5 redrill. Has integrated caliper bracket. Shorter spindle then the GM & Dodge. BTW, This is what Currie uses. It has a 7 3/8" scrub radius, but appears that it could be reduced to 6 1/2" with some machining on the flange, moving the rotor behind the flange, etc.
This is my first choice, but I wanted to do Hysteer with TRE's.
2. Ball joint Ford with 5 bolt spindle. Has integrated caliper bracket. I believe this one also has a 7 3/8" scrub, and this could also be reduced by narrowing the wheel mounting flange some, and possibly remachining the spindle.
3. GM ball joint has 6 bolt spindle.......
4. Dodge

I'm not spending $1000+ for a 22 year old work horse King pin Ford 60 in "EXCELLENT CONDITION" that has been sitting in weeds for who knows how long in New Jersey. :flipoff2:
 

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I looked up some info in my dana spicer catalog they denote the same part # for all years and all makes for the inner knuckle ( king pin axles ) and the only difference between the outers was the ford @ 5 bolts for the spindle and the chevy , dodge , etc, @ 6 bolts but the same indexing ring so I would guess all are the same scrub as long as they are all single wheel fronts. As far as making the 5 x 5 1/2 b.p. that no prob just machine the wheel hub down to the o.d. as the wheels you have redrill the l.p. get some f 150 rotors ans enlarge the indexing hole to fit and get a set of backing plates of of a dana 44 or make your own pretty simple:smokin: :smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Good info on the King Pin setups. But, I'm looking at buying a almost new Ford D50 CHEAP, and using the knuckles out. I'm not comfortable buying a rusted 79 Ford D60, and hoping the spindles, axles, u-joints, hubs aren't rusted to pieces.

I believe the ball joint GM D60's have a longer spindle, and a longer scrub radius. Maybe somone will measure from the center of the u-joint to the mounting surface of the wheel on a GM setup. I'm guessing it will be around 8 1/8" scrub.

Machining the hubs down for the 15" rim, and then redrilling for the 5 on 5.5 pattern, leaves one of the stud holes half way into the old hole. One person tack welded the stud to hold it in place, and others have welded the hole up and redrilled. I wonder if welding on the hub is a good idea?

I'm not sure what the "index ring" is?

Thanks for the info,
:smokin:
 

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no answers, but a few questions

what diameter and back spacing are you using to determine scrub radius?
 

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bwickert said:
I'm looking at buying a almost new Ford D50 CHEAP, and using the knuckles out. I'm not comfortable buying a rusted 79 Ford D60, and hoping the spindles, axles, u-joints, hubs aren't rusted to pieces.
I thought the Dana 50 used Dana 44 knuckles. What year Dana 50 (IFS Ford or what?)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
mj:
Yea, it's true scrub radius is calculated with the wheel as part of the equation, but I'm only considering the frontend axle portion cause that's what I'm building at this time. Measuring from the center of the ball joints to the wheel mounting surface. Read my original post.

gunracer1:
I'm in the process of finishing my own. That's why I'm trying to decide which knuckles to go with. Thanks for the heads up. That is a sweet deal! If the price doesn't go up to high, I may just buy it and cut it up.

Mr.N:
Nope, the newer F250 D50's use the same knuckles as the Ford 60's. Looks just like a D60, even the same diff cover. The D50 has a D44 size R&P inside. Can't put 60 gears in it because the snout is shorter for the small pinion.

:smokin:
 
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