That depends on how you do it. Using SJ410/413 front spindles and hubs the track width basically increases by the thickness of the adapter plate.
I could change axles. I had to go for a Jimmy axle as the front one has the steering arms at the necar and therefore leaves space for a panhard bar. I'll need to find an axle combination that lets me keep the front hubs.Personally, I wouldn't start with a Jimny axle housing - they have small and thin bearing pockets and the housings are prone to bending. My preference is to use a Vitara/Escudo/Grand Vitara rear housing. They have a very beefy bearing pocket and the ring and pinion are much stronger.
That is a lot of very useful info. Can I ask where abouts are you located?Ok, there's a whole different set of problems there. As discussed, you can just full float convert your Jimny rear axle and call it good. It will need to be trussed to as close to the bearing pockets as possible. (I assume this this in some sort of competition/heavy off road use - out of interest, what tyre size?)
The Jimny front axle is a pain because it commits you to a Jimny third member so you have little choice of diff ratio. (4.09/4.3) because of the high pinion. It's completely possible to run SJ front knuckles and a panhard rod - I have for many years and a quite a few of us locally have set their cars up this way. Note, the Jimny front housing is very prone to bending too- the housing flexes during articulation in a stock Jimny application.
Here is my front axle. It's based on a Vitara rear housing cut down, heavily trussed and shaved. It runs SJ knuckles and a panhard rod. I also ran a WT SJ70 front axle with a panhard with no issues for many years set up with radius arms - this is now 3 link. The panhard is Range Rover. Axle is stock WT SJ width and runs cromo CVs and inner axles.
I ran a full float converted Vitara rear for many years but my car is heavy and I drive stupid stuff so I was breaking far too many rear axles. I have since swapped to 60 series landcruiser spindles and hubs and broached the airlocker side gears out to 30 spline. This still had almost no impact on track width. (~10mm - the width of the spindle flange)
I know this is miles beyond your original question but I've been messing with full float stuff for ~15 years on Suzukis. Vitara housings and thirds are cheap, and they have a huge range of ratios. Custom axles are expensive. breaking custom axles is a massive pain. Likewise, bending housings is a pain, as is straightening them. I'd recommend doing the work once.
My 30 spline conversion cost a bit of coin in machining the spindles to nest into the vitara bearing pockets in the and hubs to retain the 5 on 5.5" PCD and retain SJ front brakes, along with broaching the side gears, however now I have off-the-shelf Nitro Gear cut to length 60 series axles and I don't believe I'll ever be able to break them. That's a nice feeling. I never felt that way with 26 spline floater rear axles and I have a pile of broken axles under my bench to prove it.
Just some stuff to consider.
This build has been so slow that I've forgotten what the stock configuration was. So it sounds like it was in Z config. I've kept the rear drive shaft correctly configured in Z, but the front has fallen out of config. This can be sorted later when I build a custom axle, I can cut the axle and rotate the 3rd member as needed.in stock form the pinion points DOWN towards the transfer and the front output points UP at roughly equal angles.
WT- wide track - SJ70 vs SJ40/SJ50That is seriously useful information!
I'm trying to avoid cutting off the rear of my chassis but it's interfering with my shocks. Widening the track may give me just enough clearance to keep the stock rear of the chassis, which is why I thought about doing the full float conversion.
I forgot to think about roll centre :/ though I did work in the anti dive, anti squat, castor etc. I used the pitman lowering arm to keep the drag link horizontal and reduce bump steer. The panhard and drag link ARE in sync, they have the same length and angle. I'll need to decide if I want to change this now. Everything is cut and tack welded at the moment.
What is WT ? Not familiar with this.
This build has been so slow that I've forgotten what the stock configuration was. So it sounds like it was in Z config. I've kept the rear drive shaft correctly configured in Z, but the front has fallen out of config. This can be sorted later when I build a custom axle, I can cut the axle and rotate the 3rd member as needed.
I keep thinking that I should post a build thread. I've taken photos as I've gone.
PS. Just a small terminology technicality: GVM is the vehicles gross weight carrying capability. Eg my Isuzu truck is 3.5 t GVM, it weights 2.2 t, so can carry 1.3 t (those aren't real numbers, they are for example only). What you're referring to as 1350kg is the kerb weight.
I couldn't avoid this, even with a very high rear roll centre (by road driven car standards) I had quite a few goes at it and even with Bilstein shocks (small body diameter) I didn't end up with enough of the chassis left after notching it for shock clearance.I'm trying to avoid cutting off the rear of my chassis but it's interfering with my shocks. Widening the track may give me just enough clearance to keep the stock rear of the chassis, which is why I thought about doing the full float conversion.
Hi Mike. Thanks for the offer. I'm in Surrey as well, but not near Guildford. I'll get in touch if I get stuck. At the moment my issue is sorted, I modified the rear of the chassis to create clearance for the shocks.I live in the uk just outside Guildford if you wanted to see my fully floating axle , I run 38.5 inch tyres through mine 👍🏻