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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I looked around and got a lot of varied opinions on this. Having picked up a 23 spline AW4 and D300 I decided to jump in. I have no pics but this is all pretty self explanatory. This is going on a NON-flipped application. Non-clocked.

#1 remove D300 input bearing retainer and disassemble. Go get a 6209 bearing with seals on both sides part numbers vary, 6209-dd should work.
Hang the bearing retainer on a lathe (I used an Aamco brake lathe) and turn off the stock seal retainer area. Basically the part will become flat with no protrusion.

#2 sight down the back of the trans. Mark a line on the output shaft where it sticks out past the t-case adapter. Remove t-case adapter, protect openings WELL with rags, cut off shaft to achieve zero stickout. I used an air cutoff wheel.

#3 look at the rear of the removed tcase adapter. You will need to remove about 1/4 inch of the bolt hole at the bottom right of the adapter, and use a correspondingly shorter bolt. Otherwise the Dana 300 shifter housing's base will hit the transmission here. Moving the bolt inward fixes the problem.

Lastly- you will need to make a spacer plate. The problem is the input gear on the D300 has an angle past the stock seal area. Without the 1/4 spacer plate the increased radius will end up pushed into the seal, not good. Other option- you could probably machine out the seal stopper in the AW4 tcase adapter so the seal doesn't bottom out, and instead push the seal forward another 1/4 inch.

One other thing. The aw4 speed sensor does not clear the input gear of the 300, it hits the OD. Mine is going in a trail buggy xj, so I'm not too upset about it. I did take a pair of side cutters and nip the end of the sensor off instead of filling the hole with silicone. Who knows, maybe it'll still work? The speedo will still drive off the tcase of course, but I don't know what the trans will do without the input. Oddly the speed sensor sits to the rear of the speed sender, not right next to it, maybe it could be relocated ??

This is not completely finished- I need to cut out the 1/4 spacer plate tonight and make sure it snugs down, but it should give *just* enough clearance.

One other possible caveat, in passenger drop non-clocked configuration the front output yoke is pretty tight to the trans. I don't even think you could go bigger than a 1310 yoke. Depending on lift height, high or low pinion diff, the driveline might get reallly close to the rear trans cooler line.
 

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So much work to save a worthless tranny

I think Novak expresses this best on their web page:

"The AX5 is prevalent, but sadly it's strength is minimal, making it a questionable off-road transmission. Failures behind even stock engines are not uncommon. We do not make any conversions components available to retain the AX5 with six or eight cylinder engines."
 

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Discussion Starter #4
AX-5, who said anything about an AX-5? I like your reading comprehension, I bet you drove your teachers nuts. :rolleyes:

Some might also question why use an AW-4, but if you've run one you already know. Very durable, overdrive, came behind 4.0 so it has that nifty CPS mount.

I just went and picked up the bearing for 15.00 with tax- try a bearing house instead of the parts store, parts house wanted $62 :eek:
 

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Nice writeup. Back when I was researching this, it took me like four threads to get all this info.

One gripe though: 1310 u-joint? Can you say weak link?

Jay
 

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jeeplord said:
So much work to save a worthless tranny
It must be dark where your head is. :flipoff2:

Nice work, I am putting a flipped 300 with clocking ring behind my AW4 (AUTOMAICE OVERDRIVE TRANSMISSION) :D Due to the clocking ring it should help with a few of the issues that you had.
 

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The Rockslut said:
It must be dark where your head is. :flipoff2:

Nice work, I am putting a flipped 300 with clocking ring behind my AW4 (AUTOMAICE OVERDRIVE TRANSMISSION) :D Due to the clocking ring it should help with a few of the issues that you had.

I think its always dark when you're heads up your ass :laughing: That dudes an idiot...


Tech related...

Listen to Rockslut.. he knows what up when it comes to heeps..
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got the spacer plate cut out tonight, and big progress on the rear one-link, but that's another story.

Looks like everything will work, so cheap away! :D

I'll have to see if a 1350 yoke will clear, but I'm not too worried about it as last year's rig ran an Atlas w/ 1310 front yoke. On 32 spline :rolleyes:
 

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I am interested in this swap. I currently have a ax15 with a non flipped dana 300 that is clocked in my jeep. I know I can get the dana 300 behind the aw4 getting the pieces together is not the problem. I don't know about the cpu controlled trans. I have read about people doing this in a tj with OBDII but what year trans would I need to do it to a OBDI. Is there a year that has a 23 spline out put and a stand alone cpu or would I have to get rid of my mopar performance cpu that I currently have?

I also know that BrettM on this board makes a harness to manually control the aw4 but I would like it to be automatic.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
AW4's have their own dedicated computer. I don't know if it is standalone, that is, what if any inputs beyond TPS it needs. Never really looked through a circuit diagram.
If you run an AW4 with no computer at all it will be manual shift and start out in 2nd gear, not ideal.
 
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