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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I was thinking I needed dana 44's but I looks like Sami's with 35's are holing up with lockers. I have 35's BFG's that came with it Im running... What needs to be done to get the stock axles to hold up with the 1.3.

Im also trying to lift it as little as possible to run 35's. I have to use springs.
thanks
Mike-
 

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dont even think that sammi axles are going to hole od under 35's and enough gearing to make your 1.3 turn them. The only weak link I have a problem with is the t-case mounts but I have the D44's. Go as low as you can and get the t-case gears too. are you going to hack it to keep it low? I have 2.5" lift YJ's and the sammi clears the 35's with some trimming just fine but I moved the axles out and I get some rubbing at the rear.
 

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Only put 35s on stock axles if you're street only, or love breaking stuff! When you gear and lock the stock stuff, 31s are probably the limit, maybe 33s if you're mild...
 

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I'm running YJ springs spring under right now and I have about 4-5 inches from the top of my 31 TSL's and the flares. I plan on going spring over (4.5) to keep from hanging up on my springs.

You will definately want to change out the tcase and diff gears. As Rockiller said, you will need to add some steel to the tcase mounts. I twisted the long side running the 4.16 gears down Deer Valley on it's first run.

If you go with YJs and SOA, then you will be able to clear 33's with little trimming. With a healthy dose of Sawzall, you should be able to clear some 35's and keep the lift fairly low with great flex.

I'm not sure what you can do about the axles to keep them together though. I haven't touched mine yet. I am adding some pumpkin caps before I take it on the rocks again though. The housings are just way too thin.
 

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What happened to your Bronco thingy, or is this in addition? I am using toy axles and 35s, with stock yj (front) and cj (rear)springs. Extra lift was obtained by raising the wheel arches. There is a write up on the zuk section of offroad.com. Its pretty low for 35s.
<IMG width=640 height=480 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/rearroll42.jpg">
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The Sami is addition to the Bronco...its taking the ...um ... activities that the Bronco used to tackle. Bronco is for nice and mild wheeling and the sami is for full get it.

I have scout 44's that came with the sami so those are a must then.

What is the strongest steering setup used on a sami with a 1.3??

Mike=
 

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I've seen several guys with Toy IFS steering, and no complaints.

If you have some Scout 44's and want to go bigger than 32's, by all means build those Dana's. GRS II + 5.29's + 36" SX's works Very Well.... <IMG SRC="smilies/grinpimp.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What is the min lift for 35's?
I actually would like to keep my stock springs. I have a idea but I need to know what the min lift is with a SOA with stock springs plus ?? inches? to clear 35's
Also are the tcase's breaking? with the 1.3?


Mike-
 

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Originally posted by Snowball:
<STRONG>What is the min lift for 35's?
I actually would like to keep my stock springs. I have a idea but I need to know what the min lift is with a SOA with stock springs plus ?? inches? to clear 35's
Also are the tcase's breaking? with the 1.3?


Mike-</STRONG>
Stiff and short stock springs + 35's = easy rollover. Definately go longer springs. Once you gear down you'll need to beef up your t-case mounts. Most breakages are the rubber mounts, then mounting arms. If you let the t-case mount work loose the mounting holes in the t-case can get egged out (al case). Other than that the t-case's are surprisingly robust as long as you keep the 1.3 in there.
 

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I cant say it enough, use chevy steering. you can get the box and pump from any 1/2 ton 2wd. You will wear out that toyota stuff QUICK on the rocks with 35's or bigger. By the way, have some of you guys completely gotten rid off the rubber parts of the t-case mounts?
 

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killa
Question about the Toy stuff...
I've run my toy box on my rig for years and my rig weighs about 1500 lbs more than ANY zuk with NO problems.. Why do you say that your lighter rig will wear them out with the SAME 35's???
 

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Originally posted by 0ILBURNER:
<STRONG>I've seen several guys with Toy IFS steering, and no complaints.

If you have some Scout 44's and want to go bigger than 32's, by all means build those Dana's. GRS II + 5.29's + 36" SX's works Very Well.... <IMG SRC="smilies/grinpimp.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
If I read right, Ol' bunrner was the last person to say anything about Toy boxes, and he was talk'n IFS
 

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Poppy and Rockiller are refering to the Celica setup (read poppys post), and they're the ones concerned about beef. I am with you on toy truck parts (as is oilburner) that the toy ifs box is beef. BTW-I know a guy with a zuk on 36s in tsls with the celica box and it works just fine too, its just not as beefy as toy ifs. Finally i hd that saginaw shit on my last rig, and it was a leaking POS after many boxes etc. I'm stinkin with japanese!

[ 08-23-2001: Message edited by: scwafish ]
 

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Yep, that was it, that and the fact that I don't really like the yota pumps with any box. To tell you the truth I have never used a toy IFS box but just think about it. They were built for trucks. A celica box was designed for a celica, not a 4WD anything with tires over 30", lockers, rocks, etc. Go overkill so you spend more time wheeling and less time changing parts. Just a side note, my chevy box leaks too but it's because I welded a u-joint onto the shaft (yes very oaky I dont know what I was thinking)
 

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Here are the basic elements to building a sweet samurai:

1) Burlier axles

2) Beefed up motor

3) Lower gears and lockers

4) Longer springs and spring over

5) 35" + Tires (if going with wider axles)

Personally, during this winter's buildup, we are doing a samurai with the following:

1) Toyota Axles, 5.29 gears, Detroits F/R, All Pro Hysteer

2) 1300 w/ Swift Bottom end, lots in accessories

3) YJ 4" lift springs, custom drop arms, pivoting spring perches

4) Klune V

5) 36" boggers on 5.5" backspaced rims


But thats just my opinion
 

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Originally posted by x2_rage:
<STRONG>Here are the basic elements to building a sweet samurai:

1) Burlier axles

2) Beefed up motor

3) Lower gears and lockers

4) Longer springs and spring over

5) 35" + Tires (if going with wider axles)

Personally, during this winter's buildup, we are doing a samurai with the following:

1) Toyota Axles, 5.29 gears, Detroits F/R, All Pro Hysteer

2) 1300 w/ Swift Bottom end, lots in accessories

3) YJ 4" lift springs, custom drop arms, pivoting spring perches

4) Klune V

5) 36" boggers on 5.5" backspaced rims


But thats just my opinion</STRONG>
Got any pic's of your Suzuki? I'm interested in you how your Klune works. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">

[ 08-27-2001: Message edited by: fatkid ]
 
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