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Discussion Starter #1
Thanks to anyone that reads this. I am very new to joining this site. I have pulled forums up on this site for years to see how guys were doing similar builds, but just now joined. My question is, does anyone know how to build anti-roll bars like on monster trucks? I know you can buy cookie cutter ones but has anyone built there own. A friend of mine has a torchmate machine so I can make the arms, but I tried finding a machine shop around me to cut inside and outside splines and they don't want anything to do with it. I have a truck with front and rear steer rockwells and have airbagged it for the street but need/have to build sway bars. Any help would be appreciated and again thanks for your time.
 

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Also, what's your setup? The rear swaybar from a fullsize ford bronco is pretty universal and can probably be made to work with your application.
 

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If you want swaybars that actually work for what you are trying to do checkout Speedway engineering.

I bought their steel arms, poly bushings, rod ends, and solid 1 1/8 bars at the length that I needed. I installed them and ran the truck to find out how much softer I wanted it. I then turned the bars down in a lathe an 1/8 inch at a time until I reached the desired stiffness. I would recomend this exact formula to accomplish the perfect amount of anti roll. I think I spent like $350 on everything. I first started doing my swaybars this way in 2004 and continue to do it this way on each biuld that I do.
 

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If you want swaybars that actually work for what you are trying to do checkout Speedway engineering.

I bought their steel arms, poly bushings, rod ends, and solid 1 1/8 bars at the length that I needed. I installed them and ran the truck to find out how much softer I wanted it. I then turned the bars down in a lathe an 1/8 inch at a time until I reached the desired stiffness. I would recomend this exact formula to accomplish the perfect amount of anti roll. I think I spent like $350 on everything. I first started doing my swaybars this way in 2004 and continue to do it this way on each biuld that I do.
Do they have 1 1/8" bars? I thought they had 1" and 1 1/4" and some bigger sizes. I started with a 1 1/4" hollow bar and turned it down. Working on some custom long arms for it so it won't have to twist as far.
 

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I may be mistaken. Could be 1 1/4. It's been a while. I have also been workin on custom arms. I was able to fit the regular steel speedway arms so My shocks could travel the full 18 inches without any sort of binding in any direction. I started using pillow blocks to locate the bars in the begining but now only use the hdpe bushings and incorporate the sway bar mounts into the chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks alot. The torsion bar idea would be great if it were going on a lightweight jeep or small truck. The truck will be close to 10,000lbs when is all said and done. I will check out Speedway's stuff. I will have to make the arms because they will have to be straight then angled to clear the airbags,shocks etc... and still travel up and down 20". I don't know how to post pics yet, if you want to get an idea you can look at it on facebook under dixie fabrication. I really appreciate you guys help!
 

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Looked at the facebook page. Pretty sweet. You really think you will be pushin 10000 lbs? Check out the speedway arms. You can heat and bend them to any angle and if done right they will allow for all of your travel.
 

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The "problem" I had with the speedway arms is that they are shorter then I wanted. The shorter the arms are, the more the bar has to twist for a given amount of wheel travel. After a certain amount of twist, the bar gets twisted permanently and will eventually twist into two pieces.
 

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They only twist like 90 degrees. Most axles shafts twist farthur than that. I think that it all depends your design and install. Mine flexes awsome with 18 inch soas front and rear. I have one setting that works well for everything and have been beatin hard since 2004.

Desert Cj, are your bars hollow or solid (the ones that you broke)?

You can always mount them to the link bars to twist less. Mine are on top of the axle.
 

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Most swaybars aren't made of the same quality of chrome molly that axleshafts are. The stuff we use is probably 4130 and it doesn't twist and rebound as much as 4340 or 300m. I haven't ever broke a bar. I have seen several break including a 1" solid speedway bar that was turned down for a lighter rate. Was being used with speedway arms.

Mine is 1`1/4" hollow speedway bar. Going to make the arms as long as my chassis will allow. Something like 21"....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeh figureing the weight of the axles and all the piping I am guessing it will end up between 9-10,000lbs. The arms on speedway do seem to be too short but I figured at worst, cut and CNC burn the length I need and tig the female splined end on. For the price and machine work, they look bad ass. Didn't know if anyone had installed them on anything heavier than a jeep. Trying to get an idea of what size bar. Thinking I would need at least 1.25 solid bar to account for the weight and height. Spinneybent, thanks. Hopefully it will come out sweet in the end. THanks again guys for all of your help!
 

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can get pics tomorrow at work but i just finished one for my bosses suburban. i used a torsion bar from a astro van. it is 35" long, perfect for most frames. the truck bars are around 60"
 

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Well I ordered a 1.25" Solid bar set up from Speedway eng. so we will see how it turns out. :D From talking with the guys there, Offroad Innovations in Cal. uses these bars all the time for the trucks they build. The kits are verry reasonably priced, 220 for the bar and arms. I will try and post pics and more info once I get it mounted. Thanks again for all the help.
 

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sweet. I think you will be happy. If you do turn the bars down be sure to taper down to the minor diam at the ends so you don't create a weak spot.
10000 lbs? Really? What is this rig for anyway? Keep us updated.
 

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I was going to suggest a double splined axle shaft from Branik. You will need tons of rate, so you would get a 35 spline full float axle shaft and have some pucks broached and weld the arm to the pucks. If you want to travel 20", you will need some long arms, making a stiffer rate neccessary.
 
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