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So some other shade tree howler mechanic had obviously been onto this bolt before me today. The edges were a little rounded off, but no biggie, I've got lots of 6pt. sockets. First off, the impact gun wouldn't even touch it (by the way the engine was out of the rig and on the stand so starter bumping wasn't an option) so then we moved on to the long-ass breaker bar leverage mode using a chain across the back of the crank and eng. stand to hold it from turning. And of course we were using PB blaster and heat also.

First quarter scores were in:

Crankbolt = 0 (one stuck bastich)

Craftsman 1/2" drive 17mm socket -1
Harbor freight impact 1/2" drive 17mm deep drive -1
Harbor freight impact 1/2" drive 17mm deep drive (shortened in chop saw to remove crack) -1
Second Craftsman 1/2" drive 17mm socket (trip to sears) -1
1/2" drive to 3/8" adapter -1 (yeah we kinda expected that one)

Finally said $#@($ it and took the cracked harbor freight impact socket and did this to it.



That did the trick. She came right out after that. Heat from the weld probably did more loosen it up than anything, but hell it's off...

 

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Way cool!, if you can chuck it up and turn in down(for balance), You'll never need a
socket for it again.
 

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BennyBoy said:
Way cool!, if you can chuck it up and turn in down(for balance), You'll never need a
socket for it again.
All you need after that is to create an opening in the radiator for the welded socket! :flipoff2:
 

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I keep a snap on 6pt 1/2 drive socket for that exact reason. OTC make a chain wrench that fits around the pulley too.
 

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Been there, done that with the same good results.

One thing I learned from a friend is there is another alternative: Turn the crank just past TDC on #1, pull plug and stuff the cylinder full of nylon roap, then hit the crank bolt with a breaker bar. Works good.
 

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Another thing I have done is to use an angle grinder to cut off the part of the bolt that puts pressure on the crank pulley (the base of the bolt, that wide part). It takes off almost all the pressure on the bolt and I was able to loosen it by hand afterwards. Of course this works better when the engine it out of the truck :flipoff2:
 

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rockota said:
Been there, done that with the same good results.

One thing I learned from a friend is there is another alternative: Turn the crank just past TDC on #1, pull plug and stuff the cylinder full of nylon roap, then hit the crank bolt with a breaker bar. Works good.
that's a great technique, used it on loctited flywheel bolts on my old engine.
 

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NitroRClover said:
Another thing I have done is to use an angle grinder to cut off the part of the bolt that puts pressure on the crank pulley (the base of the bolt, that wide part). It takes off almost all the pressure on the bolt and I was able to loosen it by hand afterwards. Of course this works better when the engine it out of the truck :flipoff2:

Damn man, I thought for sure I was going to be the only one to post this booty-fab way of getting the thing off..... :grinpimp:
 
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