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Cranky Moderator
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I recently purchased a used MSD 6A from Wilson. Since Dirtbag-711 lives down the street, he kindly offered to drop it off to me next time he was in PV.

So, to make it fun, we went wheeling Saturday and I received the MSD.

Thanks Scott!

So, we have had a few posts recently on how to install one on a 22RE. We know how to install on a 22R thanks to Flecker.

Ok, here is the 411

Besides the MSD box, you have to also have a Tach adapter, MSD PN 8210-EIS. I ordered one yesterday from Summit.

Here are the 2 Install Schematics, the first one is WITHOUT the adapter, the Second one is with.

I will take pics and fully document to process and add this to the FAQ when I am done.

Here are the diagrams:

Generic Import Install


22RE Install with the Tach Adapter (Adapter is a must for 22RE in order for the FI and Tach to work properly)


Other items needed:
  • Excellent cap and rotor. I suggest getting the Napa premium, because the have high quality Brass contacts, which just work better with a strong ignition system
  • High quality wires
  • New plugs, MSD does not suggest using anything special, IE whatever the factory recommend, but maybe 1 or 2 ranges colder, and with a wider gap.
I am researching this a bit, because I have read some people recommend Autolite or use with a CD ignition.

Hey Crash, you da man, any insights here????

Depending on Schedule, I may have time to install this over the weekend.

Anyone with specific knowledge and experience with MSD boxes on a 22RE, please post up!
 

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On my 22re runner basicly the only things you wire to are the coil and the tach wire.... that's it! The diagrams spell it out right. I will give this bit of advice for the 6a, when mounting it, where ever you choose to... just make sure it won't get moisture on the unit! Under the drip channel on the drivers side engine bay is good and I highly reccomend using rubber spacers between the box and the bay metal, not only for vibes but for venting as well... the box can get a bit warm and it helps to let air get all around it:) . On mine I opened up the plug gap to almost 40, not the standard 32 and it can handle it quite well. I also would suggest a fuse or cir. brker in case you get a jolt to your system it will save the box... I used a 20a fus. link, the box is rated for up to 16V and more amps than you would think, but 20 amps is a safe bet... Hope it helps!!!:)

And the cap and rotor are a definite, I had the best results believe it or not w/ the stock toyota cap and rotor. Advancing your timing a bit more will give good results w/ the box and makes the re a bit more responsive too!
 

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Cranky Moderator
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Discussion Starter #3
flecker said:
On my 22re runner basicly the only things you wire to are the coil and the tach wire.... that's it! The diagrams spell it out right. I will give this bit of advice for the 6a, when mounting it, where ever you choose to... just make sure it won't get moisture on the unit! Under the drip channel on the drivers side engine bay is good and I highly reccomend using rubber spacers between the box and the bay metal, not only for vibes but for venting as well... the box can get a bit warm and it helps to let air get all around it:) . On mine I opened up the plug gap to almost 40, not the standard 32 and it can handle it quite well. I also would suggest a fuse or cir. brker in case you get a jolt to your system it will save the box... I used a 20a fus. link. Hope that helps!:)
Roger all the above, I ordered the Vibration mounts as well from Summit.

It will be run off my auxiliary fuse block
 

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I've been thinking of putting a MSD 6A box on my 22RE as well, but was wondering if there is a gain in putting one on?? More Torque/HP??? Or just better fuel economy??
 

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Discussion Starter #7
toy86 said:
here is the best spot to mount the box IMO
Agreed, that's where mine will go. I need to call Seabass and get a better aux fuse block. Mine is located where the MSD will go right now, so I will be moving it.
 

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I have it hooked straight up to the battery on the power and ground becuase that is what the instructions said. I had some big voltage spikes for a while when my voltage regulator went out without any damage
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Progress pics:

10-32 threaded inserts installed for rubber vibration mounts


10-32 inserts installed on firewall for Tach Adapter


6A Bolted up


6A and Tach Adapter ready for final wiring
 

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Discussion Starter #13
flecker said:
On my 22re runner basicly the only things you wire to are the coil and the tach wire.... that's it! The diagrams spell it out right. I will give this bit of advice for the 6a, when mounting it, where ever you choose to... just make sure it won't get moisture on the unit! Under the drip channel on the drivers side engine bay is good and I highly reccomend using rubber spacers between the box and the bay metal, not only for vibes but for venting as well... the box can get a bit warm and it helps to let air get all around it:) . On mine I opened up the plug gap to almost 40, not the standard 32 and it can handle it quite well. I also would suggest a fuse or cir. brker in case you get a jolt to your system it will save the box... I used a 20a fus. link, the box is rated for up to 16V and more amps than you would think, but 20 amps is a safe bet... Hope it helps!!!:)

And the cap and rotor are a definite, I had the best results believe it or not w/ the stock toyota cap and rotor. Advancing your timing a bit more will give good results w/ the box and makes the re a bit more responsive too!
Flecker, I stuck a 30amp fuse in the block on the Firewall, but you think a 20amp is fine? I searche dthe MSD Docs, and could not find any specs on the max amp draw.
 

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steveh said:
Flecker, I stuck a 30amp fuse in the block on the Firewall, but you think a 20amp is fine? I searche dthe MSD Docs, and could not find any specs on the max amp draw.
Honestly I don't see it drawing even 20... the way I see it, it has #12 wire to the battery or in your case the fuse block. #12 wire is rated for 20Amps. I would fuse it for the what the wire size is capable of.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
flecker said:
Honestly I don't see it drawing even 20... the way I see it, it has #12 wire to the battery or in your case the fuse block. #12 wire is rated for 20Amps. I would fuse it for the what the wire size is capable of.:)
Makes sense to me. I'll measure the draw for grins, I have one of those fancy Fluke inductive Current tools for my meter.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
94toytruck said:
I got one of these sitting in my shop. Think its about time I order up a tach adapter and install it.

Did you drive it yet? How does it feel now compared to before?
Feels the same power wise, but I have a bad exhaust valve in #4, so untill I pull the head and and have a valve Job.

Things I can notice. It starts right up cold, instantly. Idle is smoother.

The engine in my truck needs several things taken care of to get the most outa the 4 little hamsters ...
 

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Here you go steveh... found this on thier site:) :
Might be better off if both of us run a 10 Amp fuse, or 7.5 even...
Says it draws 5amps at 5000 rpm's and I know I go to at least 5500 in my rig ocasionally:evil: . Also says it can handle up to 18VDC, more than I thought. They are pretty tough boxes indeed!

OPERATING SPECIFICATIONS
Operating Voltage: +10-18 VDC Negative Ground
Current Requirements: 5 Amps-5,000 RPM
10 Amps-10,000 RPM
RPM Range: 15,000 RPM with 14.4 Volts
Spark Duration: 20° Crankshaft Rotation
Energy Output Max: 105-115 mJ Per Spark
Weight and Size: 3 lbs, 8"Lx3.5"Wx2.25"H
Voltage Output Max: Primary: 460-480 Volts
Secondary: 45,000 Volts (Blaster Coil)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Shane, what type of regulator did you use? Toys seem to hoover right around 14vdc when running. I don't see that as a a bad voltage when msd specs 10 to 18.

Flecker, 10amp fuse it is, thanks!
 
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