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Discussion Starter #1
After much debate on what length I wanted my International S truck to end up, I bit the bullet and started drilling holes in the frame. Figured I'd go with what I have on hand and just shorten it the length of one driveshaft. Crap, says I can't post attachments.

Drilled about 20 holes in the frame, for 1/2" bolts. Took off one of the rear spring hangers to use as a template.
Measured the longest rigid driveshaft, 57 1/4"
Spring hangers were 58 3/4" bolt centers from forward bolts to rearmost.
Fudge the rear one forward 1", let the slip yoke take the rest and that lets me use the foremost holes as the rearmost.

Off with the tail pipe, driveshaft, various cross members, driveshaft safety hoop, undo all the spring hangers.
Two of the cross members were riveted.
Cut a square pattern on the rivet head, clear off the outer parts, leaving a square part sticking out from the frame. Wack it with a sledge, out goes the rivet.
Pitch leaf springs forward to clear holes, drill last six holes.
Air up tank so that brakes will disengage.

Find that axle is so rediculously heavy I can only move it with a come-along.
Jack up rear of frame, chain and come-along around axle, ease it forward.

Screwdrivers and a tapered punch/alingnment thing, along with a small floor jack to get the spring hangers lined with the holes.
Cross members had to move forward with axle, so crank on the come-along, then beat/kick/pull cross member to make it follow.

Air lines are same length, just have a loop in them. Exhaust tailpipe will be shortened and rehung.

Shock mounts are in their new spot, everything is bolted down.
Still have to cut the frame off, then fab up the hitch.

All original hardware used, so far I'm only out a few cutting wheels for my 4" grinder.
This was actually one of the easier parts of the build, went better than expected.
 

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That is the method I have decided on for shortening my P30 frame. I have had some people tell me to cut the frame in the middle and shorten it that way, but in my opinion keeping the frame intact and moving the riveted suspension components is a more sound idea.

Some pictures of your build would be great, I am waiting on a bed for mine before setting the wheelbase, but hopefully the time will come soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the heads up

Racer- thanks for the heads up on the air lines. Hadn't given much though to that. Do you still think it'll be a problem if the loop is the high point in the system?
Lunacy- The cut and weld method works too, just seems like a lot more work for a similar result. If the frame is straight, just slide the axle forward. Rivets aren't too hard to get out, at least mine weren't.
 

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MDT HDT frames are just straight rails. You dont ever have to cut and splice like a pickup frame..The great thing about them is just relocating components
 

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You don't have to attach images. You can post your pics on an image hosting site, resize to 640x480 or whatever it was and then post the appropriate forum link here. All the pics in my thread are hosted at Image Shack.
 

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Posting Pics as emailed...

With Comments:
Jack up frame, remove rear spring hanger.
IMG_9925.jpg
IMG_9926.jpg

Pic with drill it it:

Using the Cole drill with rear spring hanger as template.
IMG_9927.jpg

Pic of rear suspension mounts:

You can see how the front of the rear mount ended up being the rear of the front mount.

Loooong frame:


IMG_9930.jpg

IMG_9931.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks

Thanks for putting up the pic's. Later we'll get to the part about it originally being a school bus and how I swapped the body for a cab.
 

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Racer- thanks for the heads up on the air lines. Hadn't given much though to that. Do you still think it'll be a problem if the loop is the high point in the system?
Lunacy- The cut and weld method works too, just seems like a lot more work for a similar result. If the frame is straight, just slide the axle forward. Rivets aren't too hard to get out, at least mine weren't.
Anytime you have a loop, the water will collect at the low point...just shorten them also...any truck shop will have the fittings to do it.
 

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Thanks for putting up the pic's. Later we'll get to the part about it originally being a school bus and how I swapped the body for a cab.
I'm definitely interested in seeing that part of your build! I don't have a school bus but I am considering swapping cabs in the future.
 

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Would use grade 8 fine thread with swaged nuts.
Unless you're using plain old hex nuts (no flange, deformed thread or other bells and whistles) it's probably gonna be cheaper to use a larger size or higher grade fastener than to buy fine thread stuff.
 
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