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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When HP60`s are used in the rear. The R/P has a nasty habit of shredding teeth. Primarly due to the load forces riding on the coast side of the ring gear.

Thoughts or comments on having Longfield doing the heat treat/cryo procedure to toughen the R/P up ?

http://longfieldsuperaxles.com/ scroll about 3/4`s down.

5.38`s if it matters.

Thanks
 

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4.9 long rod stroker. 280hp/300 ft/lbs +
Damn, boy thats all you are getting?! I figured you'd be getting more than those numbers out of a 4.9 stroker, and just how much did you have to clearance the block to fit that custom offset ground crankshaft and rods? Got pics?
 

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Damn, boy thats all you are getting?! I figured you'd be getting more than those numbers out of a 4.9 stroker, and just how much did you have to clearance the block to fit that custom offset ground crankshaft and rods? Got pics?
maybe he's just being honest about his numbers instead of the 25% power upgrade that comes with a pirate post...
 

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if your questioning the strength you should just do a low pinion....

how many times have you been in a spot and wished your rear pinion were 3" higher? I would grind the sharp edges and run a heavy wall d-shaft and not worry about hammering on it :smokin:
 

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4.9 long rod stroker. 280hp/300 ft/lbs +
NV4500
Atlas 3.8
YJ with full armour and cage. Say 4500lbs
37 Creepys
Don't worry about the R&P until you start trashing gears. I've run a 5.9,TF999, Atlas 4.3, and a HP 60 on 37" red labels for over 5 years now, with NO problems. Most of the people you hear trashing HP ring and pinions in the rear are pushing 400 hp on tires over 42". Oh, and I also used my jeep as a DD for a while and had no problems from hwy driving either. Like I said, try it out before you start looking for solutions to problems your not likely to have with your drivetrain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
if your questioning the strength you should just do a low pinion....

how many times have you been in a spot and wished your rear pinion were 3" higher? I would grind the sharp edges and run a heavy wall d-shaft and not worry about hammering on it :smokin:
Main reason for the HP`s is to level the driveshaft angle out a bit. I am suspect of any LP that is tilted to typical short wheelbase angles 15, 18, 22 degrees or whatever. Although it doesnt happen often we all read about somebody smoking a pinion bearing. Sure there are band aids. Like a catch can on the breather but why not do it right ?

Move the DS up and nose the pinion down. Cures (or at least helps to cure) both issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Damn, boy thats all you are getting?! I figured you'd be getting more than those numbers out of a 4.9 stroker, and just how much did you have to clearance the block to fit that custom offset ground crankshaft and rods? Got pics?
No magic here. Most folks make the block fit the parts. I made the parts fit the block.

.080 custom pistons from Diamond racing. Eagle rods, which are roughly a 1/8 to 1/4 longer, then stock. Piston pin moved up to accommodate the longer rod. 0 deck and with a .043 gasket it is running 9.48 compression.
Ported head. Roller rockers being pushed by a 274/480 cam. Fully balanced. 2000+ intake with a 64mm TB. Typical header and exhaust etc etc.
There is of room for more power but I am happy with it as is.
It`ll cook a set of locked 37`s.

Numbers are guesses but based on good solid information. Maybe less, maybe more. All I know is that it does what I want it to do and should for many a mile.

Now back to our program. To cryo or not.
 

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Main reason for the HP`s is to level the driveshaft angle out a bit. I am suspect of any LP that is tilted to typical short wheelbase angles 15, 18, 22 degrees or whatever. Although it doesnt happen often we all read about somebody smoking a pinion bearing.
I guess it all depends on your driveshaft length and angle. I doubt that tipping a low pinion up 15 degrees is going to be an issue.

Sure there are band aids. Like a catch can on the breather but why not do it right ?
:laughing: Band aids like cryoing your gears because you know a high pinion is weaker in the rear?
 

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My second set of cryo'ed HP60 gears broke as easily as the first set of non-cryo'ed???
BUT, Bobby didn't work his magic voodoo on mine, I went through CJDean....i think.
 

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Don't worry about the R&P until you start trashing gears. I've run a 5.9,TF999, Atlas 4.3, and a HP 60 on 37" red labels for over 5 years now, with NO problems. Most of the people you hear trashing HP ring and pinions in the rear are pushing 400 hp on tires over 42". Oh, and I also used my jeep as a DD for a while and had no problems from hwy driving either. Like I said, try it out before you start looking for solutions to problems your not likely to have with your drivetrain.

Really??? Wish someone would tell my Tera CRD this!!! I have busted 2 ring gears in the past 4 months. I just sent the new R&P out to Bobby so we will see if it helps any. I am running a STOCK 5.2, 44RE, STaK (3.05 & 5.44) was in 3.05 both times, 5.13 gears.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=585334
 

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4.9 long rod stroker. 280hp/300 ft/lbs +
NV4500
Atlas 3.8
YJ with full armour and cage. Say 4500lbs
37 Creepys
I would guess you are a little low on your numbers. 90% of dynoed low buck strokers .30 over make close to that power. That is not pirate inflated but proven dyno numbers. At crank. Some Jeepspeeders are making over 300 crank with properly built 4.0's and not stroked.

I have found that where you wheel makes a huge diffrence on Hp rears.
I started in the midwest and east 5 years ago with my Hp rear and it did not like wheel spin and 280 hp on 38's. I now run 42's and 400 pluss hp and have not had a problem. I had CTM cryo my gears this last time and they are still on there on 42's. 3rd year now. I have noticed that i use way less bumping with my 42's now and i'm pretty shure this is the main reason. Use comon sence and don't get stupid and they will last cryoed. I would think 3 years out of any gear set would be good if you wheel alot. This being said i'll probbly blow them out this newt weekend.:flipoff2:

I think the drive shaft angle is a bettter trade off, than a low pinion strength in a jeep.
At 106" wb i don't think i can run a low pinion with my flat skid. In my configuration.

good luck
 

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Just broke my 5th R&P in 2-1/2 yrs and i'm fed up with babying it...the 70U is going in now.

~Mike

350 TPI/4.3/40's
Yea that would get old.

Just curious? Why not a shaved 14 bolt? I have herd of 70's sheering off teeth and pinion shafts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I would guess you are a little low on your numbers. 90% of dynoed low buck strokers .30 over make close to that power. That is not pirate inflated but proven dyno numbers. At crank. Some Jeepspeeders are making over 300 crank with properly built 4.0's and not stroked.

I have found that where you wheel makes a huge diffrence on Hp rears.
I started in the midwest and east 5 years ago with my Hp rear and it did not like wheel spin and 280 hp on 38's. I now run 42's and 400 pluss hp and have not had a problem. I had CTM cryo my gears this last time and they are still on there on 42's. 3rd year now. I have noticed that i use way less bumping with my 42's now and i'm pretty shure this is the main reason. Use comon sence and don't get stupid and they will last cryoed. I would think 3 years out of any gear set would be good if you wheel alot. This being said i'll probbly blow them out this newt weekend.:flipoff2:

I think the drive shaft angle is a bettter trade off, than a low pinion strength in a jeep.
At 106" wb i don't think i can run a low pinion with my flat skid. In my configuration.

good luck
Thanks for the kind words. Spent a lot of time and money putting a good running stroker together. Ported head, dynamic balance, 2000+ intake, 274/480 cam + 4 degrees, edlebrock header etc. It runs well and am happy with it.
I`d like to know what combo some of the Jeepsped folks are running.

Far as the R&P goes. For the price it seems like cheap insurance. May never need it but it might just save a long walk or add another day to it`s life. Why worry about the extra few bucks when you have invested so much into it.

Driveshaft angle is the main reason for the swap. Tilting up a LP is just not (to me at least) the right way to do it. Perhaps if I was running more motor I`d consider going a different route.

The housing has been shaved, spindles bored, tubes pressed in and the whole asm. trussed. Gotta get the internals and we will be good to go.
 
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