Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 20 of 41 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
701 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
What do I need to run hy steer on my waggy axle? I did a search and didn't find anything. What kind of knuckles to use and where to get the arms or could I make them, And can I use the stock tie rod and drag link? Pics would help. Thanks <IMG SRC="smilies/blush2.gif" border="0">
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,314 Posts
Originally posted by fatkid:
<STRONG>Wax, lots and lots of wax... <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
FATKID
Official POR Smart-Ass <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,561 Posts
You need both arms and a passenger side flat top knuckle. Ask Shaker on this board - he has made a bunch of hysteer arms and is going to make mine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,456 Posts
I hi-steered my waggy front axle. I used a pre-79' waggy passenger-side knuckle because it has a flat top. I took it to a local machine shop and had it drilled and taped for the hi steering arm. I bought my hi-steering arm from avalanche engineering. Its there new design not the old one. As far as steering draglink goes. I had M.O.R.E. make some custom length 3/4" heim jointed chromoly steering rods. Put it all together and walla!





A picture of the arm from Avalanche:

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
387 Posts
The particular arm in the above pictures from Avalanche costs $149. In my F-250/YJ D44 project, I opted to go with the cheaper/flat $65 dollar one due to the fact that my draglink and tie-rod are going to end up being parallel and hopefully won't me maxing out the heims (SOA, YJ springs), and a D60 is hopefully in the future(within a year).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
415 Posts
Rockbuggy, is the arm pictured in the bottom pic the one on your axle? If so then the cone washers are on the bottom upside down? <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> Yikes! And why didn't you put the tie-rod up there too?

$150 for that arm is nuts... talk to Bob Roggy, he makes kickass arms for less than that. Parts Mike makes em' for cheap but IMO his arms suck (too low and angled in too far).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
Originally posted by finder_87:
<STRONG>What do I need to run hy steer on my waggy axle? I did a search and didn't find anything. What kind of knuckles to use and where to get the arms or could I make them, And can I use the stock tie rod and drag link? Pics would help. Thanks <IMG SRC="smilies/blush2.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Here is a pic of my hysteer setup and the hysteer arms that I used. I was able to get both hysteer arms for $180 each. I used Chevy Flat top knuckles. You need to be carefull... if the hysteer arm is too long... your steering box might not have enough "throw" to turn the wheels from full lock to full lock.

Yogi

<img SRC="http://home.earthlink.net/~azttora1/solidaxlefrontview.JPG" height=336 width=448>

<img SRC="http://home.earthlink.net/~azttora/dana44outer.JPG" height-284 width=406>

[ 08-28-2001: Message edited by: yogiaz ]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
318 Posts
Call up part's mike at (530) 885-0673. He hooked me up for my waggy axle. Tell him Bob with the Tacoma sent you. He'll sell you the flattop knuckles, hy-steer arms, balljoints and anything else you want.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,620 Posts
What Eric said dude!

Like, if it is setup for studs and cones, why does it appear to be held on the knuckle with bolts?

Not to mention the "slope" is going the wrong way.

I'm afraid you have the wrong side arm on there, upside down, which makes for a very unsafe mounting.

The strength of the mounting done properly is from the friction between arm and knuckle, with the cone washers there to provide a zero clearance fit around the studs so no play can develop.

If it's upside down - the only contact is the tops of the cones (which protrude from the arm - at least they should) which means very litttle surface area

Please check this out
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
415 Posts
<IMG SRC="smilies/blush2.gif" border="0"> Actual Bill looking at it closer it appears to be a different (correct) arm. My bad. It's angled the correct way btw.

I've heard of guys running them upside down though and that's just scary!

Bolts work, but studs are definitely better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,620 Posts
Eric, My bad on the slope. Glad to hear it's not what we worried!

$149 is pretty criminal though...especially since the TRE/Draglink holes are not even tapered.

they look pretty though!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
266 Posts
Hey Rock Buggy, you mounted your arms correctly! When you use bolts you do need to check torque occasionally, as they will loosen more easly than studs. If you would like to replace your bolts with studs I will gladly ship them to you. If you have any questions please call, I appreciate your buisness. Eric, I'am not quite sure what you have against the high angle arm? It is far superior to the arm your pushing, and Avalanche offers a less expensive arm that works as well. Clifton <IMG SRC="smilies/jeep2.gif" border="0">
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
415 Posts
Originally posted by BRUISER-42:
<STRONG> Eric, I'am not quite sure what you have against the high angle arm? It is far superior to the arm your pushing, and Avalanche offers a less expensive arm that works as well.</STRONG>
<IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0"> I think you're misunderstanding me when I said "angled in too far." I was referring to location of the TRE relative to the ball joint, ie. Ackerman angle. I saw a pair of Parts Mike arms and the TRE was actually closer to the center of the vehicle than the ball joint <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> There was several inches of clearance between the TRE and the tire. The ones I got from Roggy are sweet, they provide as much ackerman as possible.

I'm guessing you're referring to the way you cancel out the machined angle on the knuckle? I actually think it's very cool that you do that, even the GM arm corrects for that angle. After looking at those knuckles long and hard though I saw no mechanical advantage to the surface angle on the knuckle (helps for compression, hurts for tension) so when I machined my knuckles I machined them perpendicular to the wheel mounting surface, thus no corrective angle is necessary.

$150 IS a lot of coin for that single piece of steel.

That said, I'd like to stop by your shop sometime Clifton <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,456 Posts
Hey BRUSIER-42, that sounds cool, Ive been meaning to change those bolts to studs but at the time of installing the arm I was unable to find any studs so I just used grade-8 bolts. How much do you want for some studs? E-mail me at: [email protected]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
So why are arms so expensive? I've noticed that all x-over steering is expensive and it doesn't seem that complicated or to involve any really complicated parts.

Milan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
Originally posted by FattyCBR:
<STRONG>So why are arms so expensive? I've noticed that all x-over steering is expensive and it doesn't seem that complicated or to involve any really complicated parts.

Milan</STRONG>
I dont know why? I got two hysteer arms for what the other guy paid for one. And my steering setup works great and is extreamly strong... and drives like a charm.

I always wonder why people go with only one hysteer arm and only move the draglink above the springs. Why not go ahead and buy two so that you can move the tie rod up above the springs also??? Seems like its the best thing to do.

Yogi
 
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
Top