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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm doing a 1 ton swap on my MJ. D60/14b, 3 link, yadda yadda. currently on H2 wheels with 35s (they were free) but I plan to run 37s-42s...which ever I can find used for cheap. I've decided to do a single ended hydro ram setup.

My uncle was able to hook me up with a Char-Lynn orbital valve (for free) off of a piece of equipment from work. Open center, non load reactive, 17.9in^3 :eek:.

I originally determined that it was going to be too much for hydro steering. I then crunched the numbers, and they were not that bad.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009050617162689&item=9-5268-08&catname=hydraulic

Thats the ram I want to run (2.5x8.1.25). I will have to limit the travel to 7" for my front axle. This will leave me with a volume of 34.25in^3 for extending the ram and 25.67in^3 for retracting the ram. With my 17.9in^3 orbital valve I will be at 1.9 turns to extend, and 1.43 to retract. The vehicle is NOT driven on the street, and is trailered to all events. I have bad shoulders, and they get sore if I'm cranking on the steering wheel too hard, or if I'm whipping it around trying to get traction.

Will this orbital be too much for me? The next question I have is...will my PS pump handle this valve? Char-Lynn says it calls for 4-8 gallons per minute. This is the same as other models with smaller in^3/rev.

http://www.h-ri.com/Product/Steering_systems/Steer_sys_helm_details.html


I also have the option to buy a closed center valve, and use the snout from that orbital to put on mine, and lower the in^3/rev to 4.5. My worry then is that I will be constantly spinning the wheel to turn. I'd also have to run a smaller ram, in the 2" range. If I use the ram above, I will be at 7.63 revs for extending, and 5.7 revs for retracting. Keep in mind that the suggested flow for the 4.5in^3 valve is ALSO 4-8 GPH.


My main concerns are is the 17.9 valve going to be too fast? Will it lack power? Will my pump (stock Jeep...but willing to upgrade) handle the valve and ram?
 

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i'd go with the orbital with the quicker steering. i used to have 2.5" lock to lock until i stepped up to a bigger steering ram and it was awesome
 

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Discussion Starter #3
that is exactly my thought. My only worry is the steering pump.

All I need are 1-2 people saying it should be ok...and I'm going to do it :D
 

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Discussion Starter #4
bump :)
 

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2 things that will probably make this an easy descision for you.

1. Closed center is bad news.

2. The 2.5" cylider will own the 2" for steering.

With that big orbital and the 2.5 it might get hairy at speed, but it will work.

Get it workin and go have fun, if it's too fast for you change it down the road for an orbital closer to the range of your cylinder.

You probably will stall the pump alot with that orbital if you do alot of fast turns (jerking the wheel etc) but it will work.

LG
 

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1. Closed center is bad news.
X2 you don't want to mess with that closed canter valve.

The valve will have very little to do with the power or force your steering is putting out. But it might have issues with flow/speed. The only way around that is a better pump. A different displacement orbital will just make you slower at turning the wheel so it's harder for you to outrun the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Just to clarify, this is the valve that I have.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009050711170126&item=9-7116&catname=hydraulic


When I mentioed a clsoed valve, I meant that I can take the front snout off of that valve, and put it on my valve (in the link above) to make the in^3 4.5 instead of 17.9.

I think I'm going to go ahead with it. I am very aware that my pump might not cut it. I am prepared to have to purchase a new one. It will be cheaper than having to buy a new orbital anyways.

X2 you don't want to mess with that closed canter valve.

The valve will have very little to do with the power or force your steering is putting out. But it might have issues with flow/speed. The only way around that is a better pump. A different displacement orbital will just make you slower at turning the wheel so it's harder for you to outrun the pump.
This helps a lot! I was wondering why the 4.5in^3/rev had the same input flow rate of the 17.9in^3/rev.

Thanks a bunch for the help!
 

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a stock gm pump will work #SP 17250(maybe not 100%) ,the same pump was used from
1979 through 2003.Find a used pump off a diesel so you can use the primary
reservoir casing then attach a remote reservoir.Plug the vacuum and return lines,run the return line from the top of the cooler to the remote reservoir.

 

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Super Newb for Hydro steering.. Please keep the info flowing.

Does anyone with more experience have a good link or read to learn the basic principles of Hydraulic steering?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I use this link quite a bit.

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/page.html?chapter=5&pos=v&id=22

One thing I just discovered is that there are three pages like that one. "FAQ" and "Bleeding." Don't overlook those like I did. At the top of the page there will be a "next" button. Press that to get to the "FAQ," etc.
 
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