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Discussion Starter #1
I've got my box moved foward1.5". I'm using Rockstomper arms on my Dana 44. With the truck at rest my drag link is at a 10* angle. Nothing binds at all throughout the turning radius. My problem is my hiems run out of travel when the passenger side goes into extreme droop. I'm thinking about putting the heim on the tierod turned verticle so it will never run out of travel. Would it be best to run it through the tierod or on top of the tierod.
 

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I have seeen this setup and the only problem with it is that when you apply turning force it twists on the tie rod it works but it is a little harder on the hiems on the tie rod.
 

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are you using misalignment spacers on your heims? If not these may allow you to get the extra travel you need without changing anything else. Shoulda ran regular tie rod ends :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I wish I would have started with regular TRE's,but I've already got the hiems and everything is drilled for 3/4" hiems. I've got the misalignment washers and it helped but I still need to get a little more. From the way it looks I can either lower my steering box and limit my up travel by about 2" or run the drag link to the tie rod. I don't want to limit the travel in any way so I think I'm stuck with running it to the tie rod. I may just have to carry a few spare hiems just in case of failure.

I've built my tie rod and drag link out of 1 1/4" solid round. Would it be safe to drill a 3/4" hole through the tie rod or should I put a block on top of the tie rod for the drag link?
 

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Make your drag link into a drop drag link. If you make it so the ends are parrallel to the tie rod, you get rid of that initial 10* angle. That's what I did to my fror drag link, and it's held up fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
BrianR said:
Make your drag link into a drop drag link. If you make it so the ends are parrallel to the tie rod, you get rid of that initial 10* angle. That's what I did to my fror drag link, and it's held up fine.
Ya know, thats not really a bad idea. I know alot of people frown on a "Z" bar but I would only have to bend it at most 5* on each end. I ran a "Z" bar on my Scout after the spring over as a temp fix till I did the hysteer. After I used it for several month's with no trouble and decent handling I just forgot about hysteer. It had about 15* to 20* on each end also. In all honesty I could probly get away with about 3* of bend cuz I only need a butt hair to stop it from binding at full droop. Even with 5* of bend it would be hard to even tell it had a bend in it cuz it would be so little of a bend. I know I'll probly get flammed for it but I'm not building a "Z" bar with 60* bends and a foot of drop. Ohwell I guess I'll start wheeling in the getto in downtown Knoxville,Tennessee.:p

I knew that H.F. bender would come in handy for something.:rolleyes: ,I just need to pull all the cobb webbs off of it first.
 

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A drop drag link and a z bar are not the same. In fact if you look on rockstompers page, he sales them too.

http://www.rockstomper.com/catalog/steering/rockrods/rockrod.htm

I made mine into a drop drag link with a hydraulic bender using a drag link I bought from FROR. Ran it that way for a year now with no problems. I've got maybe a 6" drop side to side and I'm running 35 SX's on a widened toy axle. If there were going to be any problem, I think I would have seen it by now. I also just added a hydro assist, which also takes stress away from the drag link, so now I have even less to worry about.

The ones that scare me are those fabricated z links that I think we've all seen horror pics of.
 
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